Rough engine...
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From: Janesville WI
I had the sunroof issue myself... I put in a brand new battery ($190 Duralast GOLD) and it still had the issues, and according to my OBDII scanner the battery is only putting out around 9 volts.
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
I had an OBD problem with my UltraGuage. I had to change a setting to "lock protocol" or something like that. Otherwise, it would query the system for a protocol and send the dash lights going nuts. The protocol should be ISO 9141, I believe.
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From: Virginia beach va
Seems like you have a ground (earth) problem, as well as an air leak.
Let me review: car ran well until you pulled the cam covers to inspect the secondary tensioners (including removal of coil covers, MAF sensor connector, air box, et al). Ran rough after you reassembled it. Continued to run rough after you disassembled it again to change the tensioners and plugs. Still have a broken hose and worn and maybe poorly reassembled gasket and bolt fittings to the cam cover and covers to the coils/plugs. But motor runs no worse than before the second disassembly -- correct?
You have air leaks or a bent connector. When the new parts get installed, carefully, with patience, I would bet it will be okay.
Still, I would go back and review the process of reinstalling the air cleaner, MAF, breather pipe, and air tube -- most frequent cause of rough idle (after bad timing). And once it runs smoothly and gets driven, your battery will get charged.
IMHO, you screwed something up in the reassembling of parts after checking tensioners.
Let me review: car ran well until you pulled the cam covers to inspect the secondary tensioners (including removal of coil covers, MAF sensor connector, air box, et al). Ran rough after you reassembled it. Continued to run rough after you disassembled it again to change the tensioners and plugs. Still have a broken hose and worn and maybe poorly reassembled gasket and bolt fittings to the cam cover and covers to the coils/plugs. But motor runs no worse than before the second disassembly -- correct?
You have air leaks or a bent connector. When the new parts get installed, carefully, with patience, I would bet it will be okay.
Still, I would go back and review the process of reinstalling the air cleaner, MAF, breather pipe, and air tube -- most frequent cause of rough idle (after bad timing). And once it runs smoothly and gets driven, your battery will get charged.
IMHO, you screwed something up in the reassembling of parts after checking tensioners.
Last edited by Jhartz; Sep 8, 2015 at 10:01 AM.
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From: Janesville WI
Seems like you have a ground (earth) problem, as well as an air leak.
Let me review: car ran well until you pulled the cam covers to inspect the secondary tensioners (including removal of coil covers, MAF sensor connector, air box, et al). Ran rough after you reassembled it. Continued to run rough after you disassembled it again to change the tensioners and plugs. Still have a broken hose and worn and maybe poorly reassembled gasket and bolt fittings to the cam cover and covers to the coils/plugs. But motor runs no worse than before the second disassembly -- correct?
You have air leaks or a bent connector. When the new parts get installed, carefully, with patience, I would bet it will be okay.
Still, I would go back and review the process of reinstalling the air cleaner, MAF, breather pipe, and air tube -- most frequent cause of rough idle (after bad timing). And once it runs smoothly and gets driven, your battery will get charged.
IMHO, you screwed something up in the reassembling of parts after checking tensioners.
Let me review: car ran well until you pulled the cam covers to inspect the secondary tensioners (including removal of coil covers, MAF sensor connector, air box, et al). Ran rough after you reassembled it. Continued to run rough after you disassembled it again to change the tensioners and plugs. Still have a broken hose and worn and maybe poorly reassembled gasket and bolt fittings to the cam cover and covers to the coils/plugs. But motor runs no worse than before the second disassembly -- correct?
You have air leaks or a bent connector. When the new parts get installed, carefully, with patience, I would bet it will be okay.
Still, I would go back and review the process of reinstalling the air cleaner, MAF, breather pipe, and air tube -- most frequent cause of rough idle (after bad timing). And once it runs smoothly and gets driven, your battery will get charged.
IMHO, you screwed something up in the reassembling of parts after checking tensioners.
I will also reset the codes, disconnect the battery (hard reset) clean off all the connectors again, reassemble, and let the car idle for 10 minutes to remap the ECU
My scanner says something about ISO 9141 I don't recall off hand, but when it comes up it usually takes a few moments then it says "PROTOCOL ISO 9141 SUCCESSFUL"
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From: atlanta ga
****EDIT: I did not notice the 9 volt voltage report! Check that with a meter, then find why the charging system is not working. 9 volts while running IS NOT a bad battery, but rather loss of charging.
Also, the pinpoint tests point to a shorted CAN bus, therefore my comments about pinched cable, water ingress, or shorted connector. And, I also agree with Jim and Jim comments about grounds and power studs- especially anything you touched when pulling the valve covers.
ISO 9141 is the particular OBDII protocol that this car uses, so that message is normal.
Also, the pinpoint tests point to a shorted CAN bus, therefore my comments about pinched cable, water ingress, or shorted connector. And, I also agree with Jim and Jim comments about grounds and power studs- especially anything you touched when pulling the valve covers.
ISO 9141 is the particular OBDII protocol that this car uses, so that message is normal.
Last edited by sparkenzap; Sep 8, 2015 at 10:51 AM.
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From: Janesville WI
****EDIT: I did not notice the 9 volt voltage report! Check that with a meter, then find why the charging system is not working. 9 volts while running IS NOT a bad battery, but rather loss of charging.
Also, the pinpoint tests point to a shorted CAN bus, therefore my comments about pinched cable, water ingress, or shorted connector. And, I also agree with Jim and Jim comments about grounds and power studs- especially anything you touched when pulling the valve covers.
ISO 9141 is the particular OBDII protocol that this car uses, so that message is normal.
Also, the pinpoint tests point to a shorted CAN bus, therefore my comments about pinched cable, water ingress, or shorted connector. And, I also agree with Jim and Jim comments about grounds and power studs- especially anything you touched when pulling the valve covers.
ISO 9141 is the particular OBDII protocol that this car uses, so that message is normal.
That wasn't after the car had run, I ran it on the old batter (tested to 6.6 volts, after sitting without running for 2.5 weeks) 9 volts was from when I put in the brand new battery before starting the car.
What wiring would I want to look for for the CAN bus?
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From: atlanta ga
Have you gotten the schematics and module location documents from JTIS yet? It is the network connection that interconnects the BPM, the Instrument Panel, the Transmission Module, the ECU and some others, I believe.
Again... I would look at the OBD socket first, since you have a known problem there.
What module voltage does your scanner shown now when the car is running?
Again... I would look at the OBD socket first, since you have a known problem there.
What module voltage does your scanner shown now when the car is running?
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From: Sunny Southport UK
You're being guided by the forum lights - but you're speculating and guessing. It could be one of a number of things. What scanner are you using and have you tried others to confirm if the OBD port is goosed....if so you can attempt to fix it.
The port itself is clipped into a bracket and can be eased out to inspect instead of lying on you back. You're looking for any wiring damage.
If this can be got working there's no guessing and a precise code and fix. It sounds like either scanner or port is causing a lot of stress.
The port itself is clipped into a bracket and can be eased out to inspect instead of lying on you back. You're looking for any wiring damage.
If this can be got working there's no guessing and a precise code and fix. It sounds like either scanner or port is causing a lot of stress.
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From: Janesville WI
So aside from the CAN Bus fault codes, after clearing all of the codes, the misfire is isolated to cylinder 4 (cylinder 2 is no longer misfiring)... Car runs/idles so much smoother. I believe the cylinder 4 misfire to be due to a faulty fuel injector, I don't remember the code off hand, but it throws a code for "Cylinder 4 injector- open" or something to that effect.
Last edited by Bcrary3; Sep 9, 2015 at 09:26 AM.
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From: Janesville WI
They shouldn't be too bad, I run a can of SeaFoam ever two tanks... But that may be. I am going to replace that injector... First check the wire, maybe it is damaged or there is a poor connection? Didn't touch them, but strange things have happened on this car.
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From: Perth Ontario Canada
Youch. There is nothing in Seafoam that will keep an injector clean. This product had it's place back in the 40s with two stroke outboards but does not belong in a modern hi-tech engine.
It's possible that these massive doses of this product (it's 50% mineral oil) have contributed to a jammed injector.
Today's gasoline already contains all the additives required to keep an engine clean.
It's possible that these massive doses of this product (it's 50% mineral oil) have contributed to a jammed injector.
Today's gasoline already contains all the additives required to keep an engine clean.
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From: Janesville WI
That's what I will do, I am also putting in new(ish) coils.. On one side, the metal plates are rusty. So, that may or may not hurt anything. But newer coils couldn't hurt anything.
As far as the errors with the CAN bus, is it okay to drive the vehicle with these codes?
I want to get the misfire sorted before I take it to the body shop next week.
As far as the errors with the CAN bus, is it okay to drive the vehicle with these codes?
I want to get the misfire sorted before I take it to the body shop next week.
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From: Oamaru new Zealand
So, I recently renewed the secondary timing chain tensioners, and I finally got everything put back together, and on Saturday evening finally got the car running...after about two hours of not wanting to start (would crank, but no fire) it finally went (Had to build up fuel pressure from it sitting at a very slight incline). Well, now that it runs, it idles rough, get smooth between 700-1175 then from about 1200-1500 get rough again, and is fine all the way up to 3000... But when it hits 3k RPM it really gets rough and it just bounces off 3000 (rev limiter?)
It is still in RP mode.
Codes would help us all, but there is something going on with the electronics that won't let me pull the codes (communication error).... I guess right now without any codes or any actual information could this just be as simple as a misfire due to a bad coil pack?
Before I put it all back together I had checked to make sure the flats of the cams were still lined up, which they were. So, I am thinking the likelihood of it being a cam timing issue is low... It did this to me the first time I moved it right after breaking the part load breather hose without even touching the cams... Could it be due to a vacuum leak from the PLB hose not being on? I've put in a temporary piece of vacuum hose to hold the pressure a bit...
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
It is still in RP mode.
Codes would help us all, but there is something going on with the electronics that won't let me pull the codes (communication error).... I guess right now without any codes or any actual information could this just be as simple as a misfire due to a bad coil pack?
Before I put it all back together I had checked to make sure the flats of the cams were still lined up, which they were. So, I am thinking the likelihood of it being a cam timing issue is low... It did this to me the first time I moved it right after breaking the part load breather hose without even touching the cams... Could it be due to a vacuum leak from the PLB hose not being on? I've put in a temporary piece of vacuum hose to hold the pressure a bit...
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Did you use the camshaft locking tools that lock crankshaft and camshafts at 20 deg atdc
and then camshafts sprockets are torqued at 20 nm then 90 degrees
these engines are one of the best to do timing on
once I finished my complete engine rebuild mine was rough on start up
it took around 2 minutes for the vvt to settle down
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