In this photo while removing the main crank pulley bolt, would the crank positioning tool be locked in the crankshaft positioning sensor hole thru the drive plate underneath the engine? Then keep it on to remover the puller? At this point the crankshaft should be at 45° ATDC correct?

 

NBcat was referring to the crankshaft positioning tool, (the small one of two in the smaller red box) not the large harmonic balancer holding tool (the large one as circled in blue by you in the large red box) NBcat pointed this out as some people think the small crank positioning tool can be used to hold the crankshaft while undoing the crank bolt, and of course you must not do this as it would damage the relatively fragile metal flywheel plate. You must use the large crank holding tool for this.......that crank bolt is VERY tight!

The "spark-plug-looking" wrench in the small red box is the VVT retarding tool....................but most people have found that it to be close to worthless, and anyway I believe that the VVTs are automatically in the fully retarded position because they are hydraulically operated and therefore when the car is not running there is no hydraulic pressure.

 

Prompt the How To link in my sig and look for the blackonyx article on tensioners. It shows where and how to lock them, the cams and remove the pulleys.

 

You are confusing the usage of the crank positioning tool, and the crank holding tool. The large crank holding tool is used to hold the crankshaft while the crank bolt holding the harmonic balancer pulley is removed, it doesn't matter what position the crank is in for this. Then you remove the harmonic balancer pulley with the provided puller, once again it doesn't matter what position the crank is in for this. It is only when you have the timing cover off, and you are about to remove the timing gears, chains and tensioners that you need to secure the crankshaft in the correct position....i.e. all four camshafts secured in the "flats-up" position, and the crank positioning tool inserted in the locating hole/slot in flywheel. This is done to ensure that the timing gears & chains go back in the correct position when you replace them. (Normal engine designers put their gears on keyways, Jaguar just likes to make things difficult! LOL! )

As per HighHorse, re-read the Blackonyx blow-by-blow account and things will become clearer......Section "S" removing the crank bolt and pulley, and Section "V" setting the timing tools. Follow this link.........
Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement

 

Here is a link to the Engine Repair course:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vqpy3bbjzd...e_168.pdf?dl=0

Pay particular attention to the description of primary chain installation beginning on page 72 of the PDF.

As long a the tool pictured can hold the crankshaft from turning.

 

THANK YOU NBCat, Carnival Kid, & highhorse. I am grateful to have you guys through this journey. I have ordered both of the special tool kits. I definitely understand the process much more now I appreciate you guys for clarifying that.

As far as the jag.blackonyx link, I am on stage 'O'. Waiting for the new tools to keep moving forward. I'm thinking about getting the other pulleys/water pump out of the way meanwhile those tools come in for the crank bolt.

 

Let's call it "crankshaft locking pin" (the other one is "crankshaft holding tool"). NO, you should not have the locking pin in while removing (or later re-installing) the crank pulley bolt. The pictures you attached show removal by an impact gun. In this case, you don't really need to use the crankshaft holding tool. The inertia mass of the crankshaft is usually sufficient to counter the gun impacts while undoing the bolt (but you need quite a powerful impact gun). However, for re-installation of the crank pulley, you need to use the crank holding tool in order to torque the pulley bolt to the specified value (375 NM or 277 Lb.ft; you need quite a big torque wrench for this). If the pulley bolt is tightened by an impact gun, you will not know to what torque it was done. The parts related to the crank pulley that you will need: Front Crank Seal (in the timing cover) and O-Ring inside the crank pulley; it is also recommended to use a new pulley bolt and a new collet.

A few important points to note:

1. Make sure not to mix the cam caps. They must be re-installed in exactly the same order and orientation as originally positioned. The caps are numbered and have a ">" symbol on them for orientation. The positioning diagram:


2. The torque for the VVT camshaft sprocket bolts of 115-125 NM, provided in the workshop manual, is wrong. Torque first to 30-40 NM and then to final 85-90 NM as per the TSB (attached here in pdf).

3. The torque for the exhaust manifold flange to downpipe of 60-80 NM, provided in the workshop manual, is wrong. Torque to 30-35 NM.

 

What's up guys I hope all is well! I'm back on to update y'all on my progress and to ask some questions.
​​​​​
​​​​​​Today I will be removing the timing cover.

Before I go on to removing all of the chains and tensioners... Since I am working to remove the heads, does it matter that I have the driver's side exhaust cam already removed? The reason I removed it was because of that broken valve spring/bent valve on piston #1.

I am aware that when removing the chains/tensioners I must have cam locks/crankshaft locking pin installed to enable me to remove the cam sprockets. I understand that this is only when doing the chain/tensioner job itself. In my case I have to remove the heads so the cams are coming out anyways.

Is it ok to lock the cams and insert crankshaft locking pin to remove the chains/tensioners leaving driver's side exhaust cam off?
Then after removing chains/tensioners, unlock cams and remove all of the camshaft assemblies with sprockets still on?

I appreciate your time and insight.

 

I've not done that, but that sounds logical since the cam flats are your timing alignment. Be sure to have the crank locked, you can't lose that.

There are a set of heads in Cali in The Marketplace and when I looked last week he said he needed them gone. I'm pretty sure they were AJ27.

 

Sounds good thank you sir. Tomorrow I will be removing all chains/tensioners.
I am interested on the pricing and info of those heads. Feel free to email me at dtriana4747@gmail.com

 

The Marketplace, top task bar, 4th item from the left ....here's his post... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/market/226214
I'll bet you could get them for $300ish.

 

How's it going folks I hope all is well! I want to start off by thanking this website for bringing like-minded folks together. I also want to thank you all who have put your time and energy into helping me throughout this whole process. Definitely couldn't have done it without you.

After removing the heads, it was confirmed that I had a bent exhaust valve due to that same valve spring breaking. I'm not sure what caused that valve spring to break, I can only assume the chain jumped a couple teeth as it was due for a timing gear update.

I was able to find a local family owned shop that specializes in Jaguar. I was blessed to meet with the owner he is very respectful. Took him the heads. He made sure they were good to reuse then got right to working on the valve assembly. Days later they were ready for pick up.

Took a day to install the heads themselves with the help of my brother. Took our time for that and went smooth. A couple days after that we got back to it and tackled the job. Not too complicated of a job if studied well and the right tools and time.

The experience is everything to me. I was getting blessed throughout this whole process I am so thankful that I was able to share and work with you all.

March 22nd was the day we got the x308 running smoother than before with brand new parts. The first couple days she was overheating due to bubbles in the cooling system. Learned the burping process on another thread and been running perfectly since.

Again, THANK YOU ALL! ONE LOVE