Security locking module replacement failure
I have tried to locate my problem on other threads but no luck.
My brake lights, reversing lights, remote locking, internal and external boot release, alarm all ceased to work.
I concluded that my SLM was faulty.
I bought a new unit with corresponding numbers plugged it in but it did not work.
I have checked the fuse and checked that there is power going down to the plug which goes into the unit.
I have checked earth leads - the boot is very dry and corrosion free.
Checked the battery voltage - it was 12.07v so I have put a new 100ah battery in.
Still no joy.
Can any one give me any ideas what I can do next?
I was thinking of removing the SLM and then seeing if I got a signal in the connecting plug when I put the car in reverse, without the engine running, for the reversing lights. (ignition on)
Thanks for any advice.
My brake lights, reversing lights, remote locking, internal and external boot release, alarm all ceased to work.
I concluded that my SLM was faulty.
I bought a new unit with corresponding numbers plugged it in but it did not work.
I have checked the fuse and checked that there is power going down to the plug which goes into the unit.
I have checked earth leads - the boot is very dry and corrosion free.
Checked the battery voltage - it was 12.07v so I have put a new 100ah battery in.
Still no joy.
Can any one give me any ideas what I can do next?
I was thinking of removing the SLM and then seeing if I got a signal in the connecting plug when I put the car in reverse, without the engine running, for the reversing lights. (ignition on)
Thanks for any advice.
Problem now fixed.
Seems I had a load of faulty fuses that showed continuity but failed under load. Maybe they had a crack in them.
I might go for some of the blade led fuses that glow when there is a fault in future.
Thanks to sparkenzap who offered to do some research on the clock cluster in case the problem lay there.
Seems I had a load of faulty fuses that showed continuity but failed under load. Maybe they had a crack in them.
I might go for some of the blade led fuses that glow when there is a fault in future.
Thanks to sparkenzap who offered to do some research on the clock cluster in case the problem lay there.
More likely when you removed the fuses you cycled power to one or more electronic modules and it reset itself. Was the SLM originally plugged in without disconnecting the battery?
The type of blade fuse used in your car can be backprobed while in place.
Generally, if the circuit is active and the fuse is good, when you backprobe the fuse to ground you should see 12+ volts, but if you backprobe across the fuse, you should see zero.
Generally, if the circuit is active and the fuse is good, when you backprobe the fuse to ground you should see 12+ volts, but if you backprobe across the fuse, you should see zero.
Yes highly unlikely but true.
I have kept the two faulty fuses and will mount them on the wall of fame.
The battery had been disconnected and a new battery installed. It had then been disconnected again. Both times earth to positive to try and drain any residual current - if indeed that does anything.
I am sure that some one else will testify that this can happen if you ask them.
I have kept the two faulty fuses and will mount them on the wall of fame.
The battery had been disconnected and a new battery installed. It had then been disconnected again. Both times earth to positive to try and drain any residual current - if indeed that does anything.
I am sure that some one else will testify that this can happen if you ask them.
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