I'm going to replace my front shocks and upper bushings this weekend. It looks like a fairly simple install. The only question to the board is it advisable or necessary to compress the spring coil (for safety reasons) or can I install the shocks without worrying about the spring popping free.

Thanks

 

The springs will not pop out. I removed my front shocks without having to compress the springs.

 

great, thanks for the info. i will change the shocks and bushings in the next day or two.

 

Bet you had to compress them to get the new springs in tho...

 

Started on my front shocks and bushings Monday. It's an easy job, but had to finished Wednesday because I had to order bushings for the gaiters that cover the shock tubes. For me, it was easier to put the car on a jack stand, take off the tire so as to have easy access. I used a floor jack under the coil spring to keep it compressed and to take the load off the shock.

Unbolted the top of the shock, the bottom and then dropped the shocks out. I took off the mounting bracket that is in the engine compartment. Pressed out the bushings with an arbor press and a 12mm bolt (one inch long). Changed the bushings and pressed back. The old bushings was flaking away.

Changed the bushing in the gaiter (also flaking away and split). Installed the gaiter back on top of the wheelwell. Seated the new shock and bolted the bottom and then placed the mounting plate back on the stem of the shock and bolted the plate. Bolted down the shock stem. Reinstalled the tire and all done.

I didn't know there were bushings in the gaiters which I didn't see available online at the various jag parts stores. The jag dealer had to order them at 30 bucks a piece.

Next project will be the rear shocks.

 

There is a very good write up on the forum on replacing the rear shocks by dropping the crossmember for the rear suspension. this allows enough room to drop the shocks out without seperating the lower control arm from the hub.

It helps to have a jack to lower and raise the crossmember and the rest is straightforward. I did have a probelm with one of the lower shock bolts being rusted solid to the shock. I had to cut it and get a new bolt.

 

thanks, i will do a search of the site. thanks again

 

I am going to replace the front shocks on my '97 XK8 and would like to know if there is additional information on removing the shocks without pulling off the spring, etc. Is there room to slide out the shock below if you keep the wheel jacked up so the spring is compressed while on car ? The upper mount was replaced 15K miles ago so no need to remove and replace as do most with this job.

Thanks

 

The only issue you'll have without letting the compression back off (and really I can only that to not let it down means you're jacking up the control arm and not using a jackstand to support the car - only the jack?) - is that the shock will be awful stubborn coming out as it tries to keep rebounding/extending. Also that means you're going to have to really muscle that shock compressed to get it back in place again, and hold it while getting it there.

 

Compressing the shock while installing it is not an issue if you remove the top mounting plate first. Installation is then : install shock uncompressed, do up the lower bolt hand tight, install top plate and push down until you get a bolt in, do up the rest. Final tightening of the lower bolt should be done on the ground.

It's worth mentioning that the advice in post #2 is ill-informed, and potentially dangerous. The shock is the lower limit stop for the suspension, and with it removed the lower arm can drop enough for the spring to be released, very violently. Placing a jack under the spring pan is one way to prevent this, although I use a pair of spring compressors as well. They are just snugged up, and work as insurance in case the jack slips.

The manual would have you use a special Jaguar spring compressor tool, which would be the best way.

 

I used a floor jack to raise the car; put a stand in place to hold it; removed the top shock bolt removed the upper shock mount, as Mark noted; put the jack under the lower mounting point to keep spring compressed; removed the lower mount bolt; removed the shock.

If you use a lift, you will need to compress the spring, or use a long lift rod under the a-arm.

 

"put a stand in place to hold it; removed the top shock bolt removed the upper shock mount, as Mark noted; put the jack under the lower mounting point to keep spring compressed;"

Doing it in this order will result in the spring becoming uncompressed. You need to put the jack under the lower control arm BEFORE you remove the upper shock nut.

 

Good catch. Yes, because we are removing the tire! So once the tire is off, find a lift point near the lower mount, loosen the lower mount bolts then the upper and remove the upper mount.

 

Thanks All !

So the order of steps are:
1.) floor jack up one side of front of car and place on jack stand
2.) jackup lower control arm and compress spring, etc. (how much ?)
3.) Remove the upper shock mount nut
4.) Remove the upper shock mount plate
5.) Remove shock from below (room ?)

To install new shock:

1.) put new shock in place from below
2.) hand tighten lower shock mount bolt
3.) push down on upper shock mount to retract shock and get mount bolts on
4.) put on upper shock mount bolt
5.) tighten lower mount bolt.

....Any advice on what else to replace while to help correct inside tire wear..and before alignment. ?

 

I don't like jacking up one corner. It's OK for changing a wheel, but if you're going to be under it for a while, no thanks. Thankfully the Jag is more rigid, but I've had a couple of cars where you couldn't open the doors while jacked up like that. They were OK when you lowered them again, but still.....

I just jack under the front crossmember, and then place an axle stand under both front jacking points.

You can take the shock out downwards, but there is a little manipulation to do it, and you fingers will be inside the spring while you do it. Makes me nervous. Why not take the shock out from above? It's a lot easier.

It's preferable to tighten the lower shock bolts while the car is sitting at normal ride height, so the bush is relaxed. That is true of most suspension bushings.

My suggestion would be to go through the suspension, inspect all the components, and replace everything that looks tired in one go. Otherwise you just keep going back again and again.

I replaced the upper arm bushes, the shocks and their upper and lower mounting bushes, the sway bar links, sway bar mounts, tie rod ends, and one upper balljoint. These were all cracking or showing wear.

Now both lower balljoints have some play so I'm going back to do those.

 

Interesting point, I've always done it the other way one corner at a time but may change my future strategy, assuming the cross member is a safe jacking point...?
Regarding the front shock change I took the spring tension with a jack/piece of wood under the spring pan, and as has been said its a hell of a lot easier to remove the top bush mount, its only 4 bolts that are easily accessible. You may have to remove the anti roll bar link but I cant remember if thats the case.
If (when) the top bushes fail we in the UK have to buy the complete assembly, while our US friends can by the aftermarket bushes alone for a fraction of the cost and swap out.

 

Actually you can order the complete upper mount bushings from US Suppliers. Parts Geek wants $76 plus shipping for a german unit (Maehle); Rock Auto wants $53 plus shipping for URO's (I think it too is German). Still much cheaper than the Jaguar unit.

 

Here is the link for the entire rear shock/spring replacement procedure in case anyone is till looking for it.
http://jaguar.blackonyx.net/tech/rearshocks.pdf