Hey all,

I appreciate all the input.

It turns out that were replacing the head gasket. There was a pretty extensive list of work we were going to tackle while breaking down. I will get a list to post here asap.

The motor replacement was an approach we were considering before we knew if any other damage was done due to the overheat. It was a minor overheat and it was decided that the gasket would be the best approach. I am going to call my shop tomorrow and get the full breakdown of work to be done and let you all know where we are.

I can tell you that a full performance package was purchased from the Mina gallery including the intake, underdrive pulley and cat back exhaust. To boot - I ordered a pair of high flow cats from magnaflow to complete the deal.

Can't wait to get her back.

I'll post the work order sometime tomorrow.

Brian.

 

Then why bother? Any loose bolt will be quite apparent during the process of breaking them loose.

 

JTIS:

And warranty processing will not pay for new bolts unless they have been previously used.

 

What I said was correct. TTY bolts are not meant to be reused. I have no idea if the bolts in question are TTY or not.

 

Yes, as far as the treatment of torque to yield fasteners. However, they are not tty.

But, in contrast to some other head fasteners, they are torqued quite a bit closer to the elastic limits for their size.

 

well they sure feel tight enough when you torque them down....

Peter

 

I've already explained the reason for checking, or do you wish to debate? It's pretty clear you've no experience regarding the issue.
To explain further; the gasket gets overcrushed during a severe overheating so the bolts will all be looser than they should. My post was a cautionary one, from personal experience.
Take my advice or not, do it your own way, it's no skin from my back.
Cheers

 

ross1:
My call for caution on tightening a head bolt is also based on experience- I have had to drill out an X-308 bolt and it is not fun. I understand your point, but I believe that, at least among us amateurs, it would be very hard to didtingush between a bolt tightening down on a crushed gasket or yielding and breaking. And, no, i did not break my bolt, the durned socket rounded the head off. It was not pretty!

 

Repair Pal in MPLS MN $2293.00 parts/labor of which $456.00 is parts.$3222.00 Dealer with $879.00 for parts. assume both sides.
I know I can get it done a lot cheaper. I'm sure they'll plane the heads,clean the valves,use new bolts but still to high. I had a 89 Grand AM 2.0 turbo, Dealer did it twice(warranty) The last time they welded the turbo shut and I did it twice, then replaced the motor (used) Valve guides were so bad I used it for mosquito control, parked it sold it as is. Guy bought it replaced the motor then the trany went but I warned him.

 

That would certainly have been a bitch. I'll bet a twelve point socket is to blame.
Your story serves to illustrate the point that you won't likely be breaking any of these bolts. Your tools or the threads in an aluminum block will give first.
Is your name Ross too?

 

That would be a presumption on your part with no basis in fact.

 

Actually, no, it was good quality 6 point. I just slipped with my backup hand on the extension as I pulled down HARD on it- it MIGHT have been more torque than it took to tighten them, but I do not know. And the bolt looked corroded in the hole.

I do know that the torque did not increase as I made the last move in the tightening series- because I used a torque wrench just to see.

I looked for my pictures and couldn't find them, but my gasket failure was the same as others have reported. The metal ring had deflected slightly inward into the cylinder. No overheating event on my watch - and I have had the car at least 35,000 miles.. I don't know if the gasket deflected after assembly, but I seriously doubt it. I think it occurred during original assembly and took 165,000 miles to burn through.