Just got the confirmation that the head gasket is leaking coolnt into cylinder #2.

Very, very, very bummed. They don't think its bad, but its definately happening. Thats bad enough for me.

Any word on what this job should cost. My shop is TOP NOTCH... but we haven't gotten to what we should do just yet. We're figuring out all options.

I guess the first question I have is does anyone know of an addiative that might treat and clog the leak, if it is a minor one to hopefully sidestep having to split the motor open or worse yet... change it completely??

Anyone?

Thanks as always in advance. You guys are the best.

A very sad Jag lover.

 

Others are much better qualified to provide a WAG as to a head gasket replacement cost but I would like to comment on the additives claiming to plug a leak. I have never heard of anyone that ended up happy with the results. I would propose that anyone using such a product is just trying to seal it up until it can be quickly sold.

I would welcome hearing any experience to the contrary.

 

I don't have any experience with any products like that, but I've heard of them. Which is the only reason why I ask. I could imagine people looking to patch and sell, but I can promise you - that it isn't me. I could'nt bring myself to part with her.
I had the opportunity to not long ago.. I was looking at an 08 Maserati quattroporte, and while it would have come with a substantial monthly payment, I ultimately turned it down simply because I am so in love with my xjr.
I don't want to change the motor, and that seems to be the most popular opinion coming from the techs at this point. I would love to see if there were such a product and if it could keep my coolant level steady.
I would sooo much rather start there than having to start by splitting the motor in 2.

I just don't know...

Thanks again for any opinions / guidance.

Brian.

 

I also doubt that any stop leak product would make an effective repair.

Changing the motor seems drastic, I'd think pulling the head off would be the first step then go from there once you can see the extent of your problem.

 

I've never seen a cure in a can that worked.
A friend was convinced that Heal a Seal http://www.heal-a-seal.com/ would work so ordered it but never used it and had the car(Caddy Northstar) properly repaired at my urging.
I'm sure he'll offer it a big discount if you wish to try.
I'm not familiar with your circumstances but if yours is the result of an overheat you could be facing way worse once you open it up as happened with my friend.
Some aluminum engines are prone to the head bolt threads getting pulled out with overheating. You can check for this by attempting tightening of the headbolts before you actually tear it down. I'm new to Jags so cannot comment on their propensity to do this but investigate the matter before spending a lot on labor. A block with that problem needs serious work or replacement. Heads that suffered an overheat bad enough to do this are likely suffering as well.

 

Turns out my engine is leaking oil from a gasket as well. The mechanic that has examined my 2000 vanden plas also suggests I replace the spark plugs because they typically get oil on them as a result. They claim it's about a $500 fix, and I was wondering if that seemed accurate. I checked out RepairPrice Estimator - Get an Estimate for a Service or Repair on Your Car : RepairPal and see that it may not be the best deal, but I can't find a better one in town. Any suggestions?

Thanks as always,

Chris

 

What Gasket is leaking?

It almost sounds like you are referring to the cam cover gaskets and the spark plug well gaskets.

$500.00 is pretty high for that, but if you are referring to a head gasket, it seems reasonable.

I am not an expert.. just a diy guy and pretty much a rookie on each job, but the cam cover gaskets are easy.

 

That would be a bad move on a Jaguar engine. The head bolts are highly stressed when properly torqued. Any more and you risk snapping the bolt.

 

As I said "some" engines are prone to this, I don't know specifically if Jags do.
The OP is talking about a head gasket job so the bolts need to be removed anyway. I was not suggesting severely over tightening them but seeing if they will achieve recommended torque with out pulling the threads out like an aluminum slinky. The bolts are extremely strong and torque to yield anyway so disposable. Unless your sirname is Schwarzenegger and you have a long pipe you aren't going to be breaking head bolts.
Doing this ahead of time can save lots of grief later on when a head is about to be reinstalled, much labor and perhaps machine work later, only to discover the block is junk.
I'll wait for the Jag pros to chime in but this a fairly common overheating consequence on aluminum engines, the Caddy mentioned or BMWs for example.

 

I have had to do a head gasket on my MY99 XJR, so I have checked the archives and watched with interest here for gaskets. I BELIEVE every case reported had verifiable mechanical damage to the gasket metal sealing rings. In that case, torquing would do no good. In addition, the bolt stretch on Jag engines is very close to yield- the torque is probably decreasing as you tighten the specified half turns. I'm with Plums on this one.

 

Lets get this clear, your 'top notch' mech shop would prefer changing the engine than head gasket?

Just get the gasket and get it fitted. The most difficult part is removing the rear bolt on the supercharger, the rest is gravy.

My tip - order head bolts from your nearest Range Rover dealer, a fraction of the Jaguar items and exactly the same - you'll need 10.

My question would be why is the gasket blown? did you have a high temp event? in this case a new waterpump and thermostat fitted at the same time, with fresh coolant would call the job done in my book, back on the road, and not even 15hours work.

Why all this debate about gunk stoppers that never work, tightening hi tensile bolts that are already at their limit, and debating your naval will not get it fixed, just a pile more work.
My bad? - just feeling a frank view is required here, sorry.

 

Apparently, it is both valve cover gaskets that are leaking. It seems the mechanics may be trying to get me to buy spark plugs when it may not be necessary. The quote I received said, "spark plugs $50 and the gaskets were $150". He may have had the prices mixed up there, actually. Then again, the check engine light is now on. When the leak was first detected, the engine light had not illuminated yet....

 

Claugher-
Just to be clear - this was a post on head gaskets. What you apparently have are leaking valve cover gaskets, which are easily replaced for the numbers you are talking about. The head gaskets are an entirely different matter.

 

You cannot check bolt torque without first breaking them loose. And no, the bolts are not extremely strong for the stretch required. They are already in the elastic yield zone when properly tightened the first time.

 

Why wouldn't you buy sparkplugs? You are already in the neighbourhood.

 

You can't reuse or retighten a torque to yield bolt. It is permanently stretched during the tightening process. I always use ARP bolts.

Show me a head bolt that isn't highly stressed.

 

Hijack Alert!! Start your own thread please!!

 

I think you've missed my point. I was not suggesting that retorqueing would fix anything.

 

I understand they need to broken loose first. They will take another torqueing.

To illustrate, a fellow near me has built quite a tidy business repairing the Caddy Northstar which is prone to pulling the head bolt threads. He repairs the threads(timesert) and REUSES the bolts which he could easily charge for. He won't disclose his tightening method. I assure you it is a successful repair, he has done hundredes, my friend's is among them.
Perhaps this discussion is moot and this never happens on Jags. I would be damn disappointed if I were all ready to button up an engine and the headbolts just kept turning.

I offer this photo of the theads ripped from a bmw block by overheating;

 

Hi

jaguar say in the manual that you can reuse the head bolts twice.

No telling of course if they have already been re-used!

Supposed to punch them to mark but cant be relied on. I re-used mine as it was apparent from disassembly that my heads had been put on with the wrong head gaskets, the sealing rings were inside the valve area rather than making a seal. My car looked to have had the Nikasil engine replaced as the bores were plain and in fact still had the cross hatching on them 86k by the way.

Peter