I will answer some of my questions. But I still have 1 or 2 left.

1. It seems the pads for the 325 and 305 front rotors are the same. Both discs have apr 50 mm braking surface. On the 325 they are 1cm further from the center giving the brakes a bit more braking power. (Maybe a no brainer to many of you but a serious brainbreaker to me )

2. Still dont know if the bushing kits front and rear are the same. The pins are. I know pictures dont say much, but visually I cannot see any differences.
I found a set from Bosch (1 987 470 603) that fit the OEM numbers for the front bushing kits and pins. I ordered 2 more and will see/hope/pray they fit on the rear calipers.

3. Dont know if the housing clips front or rear are identical. In the end I ordered seperate sets to be sure.

4. The front 17mm bolts (JZB 100010) and cost between 2-3 Euro.
The rear 15mm bolts (JZB 100060) are a little harder to find and cost between 10 and 13 Euro. For 4 bolts that is 50 Euro extra on the job.
I decided not to order them and wait until I see what the existing bolts look like. I know that maybe cheap, but hey... I am Dutch.

5. Found bleeding screws for 3-5 Euro. My supplier didnt have the caps, so I will try to re-use the old caps or put them later.

Still open for any tips, comments or anything!

 

extremely well done!!!!. Thanks for your time to do this!

 

I’ll take exception to only only detail. The rotors do not generally just “fall off”. This is true of the X-100’s and many other cars with the same stud / rotor design

Very often the rotor studs are stuck on the rotor and no amount of hammering, heat, or sweet talk will get the rotor to easily fall off.

The only product I’ve found to reliably get the rotor to detach from the studs is the CRC brand of “Freeze-Off”. Allow About 1/2 of a can for each wheel and spray liberally around the base of the studs. A light tap on the rotor is all that’s subsequently required.

Work in a well ventilated area as the fumes are toxic to breathe.

Z