I orderd ford part number W705391S300BOLT - M6 X 1.06 X 40 HEX
I got that number off of a post here for the bolts to hold my new upper tensinors but it seems these bolts are to long they feel like they have bottemd out in the hole. They look just like the other bolts just a bit longer plz help

 

ok so that was the worng part number that someone gave to me on another thread. I got some shorter bolts and everything is working great. I already have one side done and put back together. It was split really bad still holding good.

 

I thought they were supposed to be shorter, but it's been a while since I did the job. Be careful on the other side. When I pulled one of my old tensioners out it fell apart. I was lucky I didn't drop anything down inside the front cover because I was not expecting that. Best of luck !

 

All done she is running like a top!

 

Please identify the post that had the incorrect bolt information so that others do not follow the same path.

 

Come to think of it, that may be the reason for the recent spate of "ticking after tensioner change" threads.

There are a lot of people wandering around who would happily torque down a bottoming bolt and call it good without questioning why or noticing that the bolt has bottomed.

Well, the resulting gap is not going to allow the tensioner to build up pressure to design levels. And will certainly allow the tensioner to leakdown when shutdown. It will also starve the VVT that is in the neighbourhood if it is a NA application.

The reason that the ticking disappears with increased RPM is of course that the oil volume increases with RPM. At some point the volume of oil is able to mask the leak. The same is true with regard to the use of thicker oil - it too will help to mask the leak.

It is hard to detect after the fact for the inexperienced because the piston spring applies some pressure and holds the tensioner steady and their fingers don't know the tactile difference.

 

Was in the thread i posted with the title new owner help.

 

What is the length of the shorter bolts? I have this same problem.

 

They are only about an 1/8" shorter than the original but that makes a big difference.

If you have the longer bolts go to the local ACE and buy 2 nuts that fit the bolts. Put the bolts on and grind/Dremel/cut the 1/8" excess off and then take the nuts off to clean up the threads.

 

Good point!
In addition, I think I remember reading that using the long bolts with the later tensioners blocked some sort of oil passageway ...???
(Wouldn't swear to it, though.)

 

Or -- go to Christophers or your local Lincoln dealer and buy the right bolts.

 

I checked that thread, didn't see any mention of the bolt part numbers you listed above.
Must have come from somewhere else.
Oh well, good deal that you caught the discrepancy!

 

Fix it!

 

That brings up the notion that one should check archives for additional information on many matters. There is certainly no shortage of bad information on the internet, and yes, even on this forum. Some posted by me, I am sure!

 

For reference, the front timing cover bolts are the correct length for the metal bodied secondary tensioners. You could also add a short spacer or washers in a 'pinch'.

Just make sure the tensioners are TIGHT against the head.

I never have to buy the shorter bolts anymore because I just take them from the front timing cover of the several 'scrap' engines I have around.

bob gauff

 

I think it would be more like the oil passage between the block and the tensioner
does not seal at the mating surfaces and then the oil is free to take the path
of least resistance rather than acting on the plunger.

In addition, the tensioner will have a case of the wobblies. (see JTIS for definition )

For future readers, AFAIK, the shorter bolts are 35 mm measured from under the bolt head.
Be sure to clean oil out of bolt holes to avoid hydrolocking even with the shorter bolts.

Notes copied from my cheat sheet:

 

Don't think the OP can do anything about it if it was in a response
written by someone else.