You can't rotate the camshafts with the lockig tools in place... That is why they are lockig tools. If you remove the tools, then yes, you can turn the cams.

Regarding the rear back in plates: once you have the lower tensioners off, you'll notice that they are a different shape. They are also thicker. That is because the backen plate has been integrated into the body.

 

I guess you mean can you unlock the cams and rotate them, while the crankshaft is locked. If this is what you mean, then the answer is no. With the crankshaft locked, you can only rotate the cams a small amount around the position of their flats up (the position where the flats are when locked). If you rotate the cams too much away from the flats up, you risk bending the valves as some will come in contact with the pistons.

 

When the crankshaft locking tool is installed the timing is set at 45° ATDC. With the pistons in this position the valves will not come in contact with the pistons if the cams are rotated.

You cannot rotate the cams with the cam locking bars installed.

Here is a link to Motorcarman's engine repair manual.


http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...Code%20168.pdf

 

 

Thanks, that's very good to know as I am just about to start installation of the camshafts on my Super V8 engine. I have the manual you attached but (obviously) did not read it in detail.

 

Once the CRANK is locked @ 45 degrees ATDC you can remove the cams, remove the heads etc. (that is how you disassemble the engine)

The cams can be reinstalled and locked into place. The sprockets are then tightened and the engine is now timed properly.

bob

 

 

I have uploaded HUNDREDS of TSBs to this site and Gus has them on his site as well.
These bulletins have info on most problems and solutions Jaguar has encountered.
Revisions to processes are often addressed in the TSBs.

bob

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by motorcarman

I have uploaded HUNDREDS of TSBs to this site and Gus has them on his site as well.
These bulletins have info on most problems and solutions Jaguar has encountered.
Revisions to processes are often addressed in the TSBs.

bob

Bob, I had already seen those TSB's and all the other TSB's on the main thread and nothing mentioned anything about an angular stretch bolt nor did anyone mention it on any of the hundreds and hundreds of threads. Jtis is throwing me off because it calls for the exhaust sprocket bolt to be tightened to 115-125nm then says

"carry out the intake camshaft retaining bolt tightening sequence.Tighten to 40 Nm + 90°."

I am not sure if by it saying carry out tightening sequence, it means to carry out the same torque as the exhaust sprocket bolt, then torque it again to 40nm PLUS 90 degrees. indicating its an angular bolt. Correct me if I'm wrong and I apologize for all the annoying questions. I guess I just suck at yielding good search results

 

The Workshop Manual specifies 115-125 NM for both, exhaust and intake, camshafts on supercharged engines. It specifies the same torques in the case of NA engines (with VVT) but the torque of the bolt through the VVT was later amended by the TSB. There is no reason to have different tightening torque and procedure between exhaust and intake camshafts on supercharged engines as the bolts are identical (the same length). Probably an error in the JTIS (copy and paste from the "Vehicles without supercharger" and forgot to amend the "Tighten to..."

 

Just for comparison, M12 x 1.5 Grade 12.9 bolts (like the bolts for the camshaft sprockets) are / can be, according to the general fastener torque tables, tightened to 147 NM. As it is probably unnecessary to go to this full torque in the case of clamping the sprockets to the camshafts, Jaguar specified somewhat lower torque. Both torques, 147 and the Jag's 115-125 NM, are certainly not cases of torque to yield (stretch).

 

I just realised that the JTIS is also wrong when specifying 40NM plus 90 deg. for VVT bolt. It should be 40 NM and then to 85-90 NM, as per TSB.

 

 

Not necessarily but torque to yield always goes torque to xx NM plus yy degrees.

Workshop (factory) manuals almost always have errors and some can be catastrophic if followed. A couple of examples:

- XJ8 Workshop Manual gives, in the table of engine torques, the torque for the head bolts as just 35 NM (no mention of +90 +90 deg.)

- Ferrari 348 Workshop Manual states 0.8 NM for the M6 bolts on camshaft caps (a little more than finger tight).

 

Are there different head designs used on the sprocket bolts? (ie, Torx, Hex, Ribe.) I ask as I used the 10mm ball head on my AJ27 engine and it didn't work too well. I got the bolt out after modifying a 12mm Ribe bit to fit properly, but the bolt head is too mangled to reuse. (It looks like an ARP 256-1001 might be a good replacement.) My first XJR was a '98 and it seems that the bolt heads on that engine were more of a torx style head. I say 'seems' as it was 15 years ago when I took a look at the timing gear to see if the upgrades had been done, which they were.


Mark
XJR-100

 

I don't believe so. I am almost certain they are all the same as per jtis and jaguar classic parts. They're a 10mm hex. When I was loosening them I used a 10mm hex bit but stop midway because I felt as if it was going to strip. I ended up using a impact torx bit t55 if I remember correctly. It felt so much better.

 

Thanks for the reply, PORNO. When I did a full chain job at 100k miles (73k ago) I got a 10mm hex and the 10mm ball head. Got the same results as you, but I wrapped some duct tape around the 10mm hex and was able to R&R all 4 bolts. There was a little damage to the bolt heads, but it all worked out. This time around, my diagnosis is the A-bank secondary tensioner. What caught my eye was slack on the tension side of the secondary chain. When I put the bar across the cams, the slack was still there, so I needed to do a little tighten up there requiring the bolt to be removed. Using the same technique as before (with the duct tape), I managed to really mangle the head on the cam bolt. Also, while perusing the Jag tool website, I came across tool number 303-1077A, Ribe Socket M12 x 1/2. The description of its use is "Removes the exhaust camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and nut" and is applicable to X200s and X350s. Well, that X200 would include 4.0L engines, so that all made sense. Instead of bying the Bosch tool for $37.99, I ordered a full set of Ribe bits for 24.99. When that arrived, the 12mm was too big and the 11mm too small. So, I put the 12mm on the drill press and got a cheap file to wear down some metal. I was able to get both the A and B bank bolts out, but I was very concerned about stripping out the remaining material in the bolt head. Summit Racing has a retail store near here, so I went and got the ARP bolts that I mentioned, and they work great. The only difference is that they have a larger flange with an 18mm 12point head. I can't get the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench on them, but I did find a short socket that allows the 3/8 drive torque wrench to get on there inside the timing cover. So, I used 20NM and 90 degrees of turn from the JTIS torque spec tables in the JTIS.


Here are some pics: the first one is the totally mangled bolt head from the A-bank; the second is the half-mangled head from B; the new bolt; short socket with 3/8 breaker bar.


Mark
XJR-100