Throttle Body rebuild
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Veteran Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,386
Likes: 370
From: Virginia
I don't think anyone is following this but just in case...
I decided to install the new evap purge valve, new EGR valve and the rebuilt throttle body all at the same time. I also topped off the battery charge while it was disconnected.
The car fired up instantly and after a few seconds of "finding idle" it ran perfectly smooth. I let it idle for a little over 10 minutes and then went for a drive. Smooth and responsive, no codes, fun drive. Fuel trims (long term) between 0 and +5 on both banks.
End of update.
I decided to install the new evap purge valve, new EGR valve and the rebuilt throttle body all at the same time. I also topped off the battery charge while it was disconnected.
The car fired up instantly and after a few seconds of "finding idle" it ran perfectly smooth. I let it idle for a little over 10 minutes and then went for a drive. Smooth and responsive, no codes, fun drive. Fuel trims (long term) between 0 and +5 on both banks.
End of update.
Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 83
Likes: 6
From: Cochrane AB
Not sure what other things you have done, sounds like you're quite familiar with dealing with the "idiosyncracies" of our toys. For what it's worth, I have had the TPS code come up several times in the past. Typically a good cleaning of the throttle body with carb cleaner and a cloth have cleared it up. In these situations I can't even feel any build-up where the butterfly rests (although I can see a ring), but "scrubbing" seems to help. The last time it occurred the cleaning didn't keep the code from coming up again. I had to drive with some pressure on the pedal to keep it from coming back after I had cleared it with a code reader. I found a video on YouTube that showed how to take the slack out of the throttle cable. Once that was done the code has cleared and hasn't returned (yet).
Thread Starter
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Veteran Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,386
Likes: 370
From: Virginia
In my limited experience I think the throttle body codes usually occur due to either a loose electrical connection or an internally corroded potentiometer. My pedal position connector to the throttle body once broke at the locking tab, I had to wire-tie it in place to prevent codes.
I have read about people drilling a small hole in the potentiometer casing and injecting some cleaner/lubricant. I just went the rebuild route.
Good luck.
I have read about people drilling a small hole in the potentiometer casing and injecting some cleaner/lubricant. I just went the rebuild route.
Good luck.
I need the rebuild route myself. Nothing at all has stopped my 1121 from occurring. Throttle cable adjusted, every connector clean and shiny, and TB cleaned out pretty as ya please. And nope, still hates me.
