I am going to change the transmission fluid and filter on my '00 VDP. Which type of fluid is recommended by factory/or what is best for these transmissions?? Any additives needed etc?

Thanks in advance

Dan

 

There are long threads in this. Much discussion of use only original (I think called Lifeguard) or other brands fluid that say they are compatible and much much much less expensive. Strong opinions. I used one listed as compatible (I think Valvoline) 45k miles ago.

 

I think the tranny shop I used for a fluid/filter/pressure valve change after buying the car used ZF Lifeguard 5, which might also go by the name Pentosin, I just can't remember. It was about $20 a quart three years ago. If I recall It's what the ZF folks had as a recommendation in their literature. the Jag-labeled stuff is outrageously expensive and probably just relabeled ZF stuff.

 

Indeed this has been discussed at very long lengths before, especially by me.
Am I right in assuming, your VDP has a ZF 5hp24 5-gear transmission?
If so, here is you answer:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-flush-265900/

 

Thanks! I ended up buying this fluid> stated it was equivalent to Esso LT71141 so it should be OK, It's 7 quarts. Planning to do a drain/fill, my car has 41k miles on it. I am replacing the fluid mainly due to age, not mileage.

 

I can't see what's written on the labels. Name of ATF?
Many useless Multi-vehicle ATF incorrectly claim to be suitable as replacement for Lifeguard 5.
But hold on - I was able to identify the ATF you bought with a google search - it is Febi Bilstein, right? Yes, that is OK.

I probably wrote in my thread that a drain/fill does not make much sense - it is the same as releasing all the engine oil and to refill it, you use 50% new oil and 50% of the old oil.
7L do not suffice for a full flush. And a drain/fill would also be an equivalent to an engine oil change without oil filter change - also something I would never do - rather pointless...

 

Can I flush the transmission in this fashion:
Remove both transmission cooler tubes from the radiator, put a clear tube on each, one goes to a "dirty" drain and the other goes into a clear container with new fluid in it. start the car, let it run while I watch the fluid get sucked in and old fluid drained into the dirty drain?? This is how i've been doing it on other vehicles all my life. This would be done of course after I do the initial dropping of the pan, change filter. I also purchased the dipstick kit from MEurosport.com
Thanks again for all the help!!
Dan

 

Keep in mind that it is the lower pipe on the X308, there the old ATF comes out.
The other method (as the one in my link) I have used, is where the upper hose stays connected (so basically open) the lower flushes into the pan, a second person briefly starts the engine (=ATF pump), I refill the transmission (with the new filter in) - and I do this about 3 times.
But yes, what you suggest sounds reasonable as well.
But you will need more than 7quart, probably 10-12L or even 14L (plus the filter and a seal for the transmission oil pan).
As 1 quart is 5.5% less than a liter, thus probably another 7 quart.

 

Perfect! That is doable! I have a friend that can hit the key and start it momentarily to pump out the fluid from the torque converter until the fluid coming out is nice and clean. Then just top it up and check fluid on the dipstick!

 

That "dipstick" (you mentioned it above already, that you want to add one) is something I do not know about. OE does not have a dip stick. How do you add one?
You will get a feel for how long (short) the helper should let the engine run - preferably before the white air-bubbles arrive with the dirty ATF in the clear tube (clear tubes, so that you see what you are doing).
But I see nothing wrong about your method either.
And use a transfer pump to get the new ATF into the transmission (as shown in my thread).

 

I bought ZF's own brand on Ebay, individually it's about €20 per litre, but drops to €12 when buying a 10litres bundle. It'll be cheaper than what a workshop will charge, if a workshop is changing your oil, just provide the oil and save a bundle.

 

> ZF's own brand ... if a workshop is changing your oil, just provide the oil and save a bundle.
Yes, good idea. More importantly then you know that the right ATF gets into the transmission (hopefully, if they don't keep the ZF Lifeguard 5 and put in some cheap stuff instead...)

 

Don't flush just remove the drain and fill the correct amount it's easy if you have the tools

 

Do flush - as explained before.

 

yes, I plan on flushing. This is the only way to get out the old fluid completely

thanks Peter!

 

It's 20 year old transmission it will need that old viscosity
however good luck with the flush

 

I know what you mean now, mobile1. You did not write before, where you are coming from. I read posts before, where people basically advise to be careful removing the old crap in the system, as the transmission is kind of damaged to a degree already, where the transmission only operates in it's last breathes of life due to the old transmission's faults being temporarily covered up by an ATF (dirty and wrong viscosity), which would be really bad for any new transmission. Well, I heard those stories. I do not totally discredit them. But my consideration is this:
So this logic would enable to paint 2 scenarios:
1. The transmission is that far GONE that it only works, because it is "powered" by bad ATF, just before it will eventually die.
2. The transmission is still undamaged, but crying out for new ATF, before the damage kicks in.

So if scenario "1" exists, where a transmission only works with the old ATF, then you still do not know, which of the 2 scenarios above is true for your car.
And I would definitely opt to bet on "2.": Logic: If it is "1", then your transmission is dead as a Dodo soon anyway. Hence, your only hope is that "2" is true...

PS:
BUT: I also read some advise in the past regarding this;
When you release your old ATF make sure to capture it in a clean tub and keep it there initially.
If - after the ATF full flush - it turns out that your transmission "cries out for the old crappy ATF", then you should drain again half of the new ATF and shove the old crap back in instead.

 

I agree with you but this is very complicated and he must do lab test for the fluid if he want to be 100% sure . Based on real life experiences I have seen zf transmission slip after flush from bmw to Mercedes to Hyundai automatic transmission are sensitive I myself flushed the transmission and the transmission died it was working fine when I drained it and refill it and my mechanic adviced me to not flush but I did then goodbye zf5hp it's gambling I believe it might be beneficial to flush in some cases but for our cars I will say no just my opinion