This mod will not only keep the carbon out of your intake and combustion chamber but boost power considerably by keeping hot oily air out your cold air intake and restore octane levels but also by keeping a steady negative pressure(vacuum) under the pistons.
it will also eliminate the need to keep that 3/32" orifice from plugging up all the time resulting in increased crankcase pressure and oil leaks up the wazoo.
Route both the part load and full load breathers to a catch can then to a vacuum pump instead of the intake tract and throttle body vacuum. You want a vacuum pump that does about 12 to 14 inHg. The negative pressure under the pistons is extremely beneficial to power.
You could go to junk yards and get electric vacuum motors from a large number of 4 cylinder vehicles from that era for little or nothing. They were used on brake boosters because their little engines didn't provide enough boost for the brakes. Reduce the full load breather hose down to the same size as the part load and tee them to a catch can or use 2 cans then tee to the electric pump.
No more than 14inHg vacuum tho or you'll suck oil away from the pistons and rings.
This will be especially beneficial to those with boosted engines where stock breathers cause a big problem when under boost.
I'll be doing this once I replace the leaking valve cover gaskets and spark plug orings that are leaking because of the inadequate stock breathers neglected by the previous owner.
I'll be refining this thread as I proceed but this covers the basic concept. Anyone wishing to add their imput/experience feel free as I'm in the beginning planning stages having come across similar mods in other forums that have had great results. Again, especially in boosted engines. But I'd be looking for some considerable performance increases in NA engines as well when combined with COIs and exhaust mods with cat deletes.

 

Take allot of photo's of your install. Each picture is worth a thousand words. Thank you in advance for your documenting this project.

 

You're welcome. I got sidetracked today but here's a write up on exactly what I'm talking about. 40ft.lbs. of torque and 28hp is a damn nice bump.
I have to order a catch can too.

https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=82448

 

Here's a link to making an inexpensive catch can out an air compressor water separator from harbor freight. There's a few videos out there on doing it too that shows the nasty stuff you're putting back into your intake tract.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo.../148748/page1/

 

Ok, so I've decided on this . It will pull up to 16inHg of vacuum. Perfect for this application and eliminating the need to get vacuum from the intake which obviously decreases with load.
I've also decided on this ADD W1 ver.2 catch can. This will install between the engine and vacuum pump. Now you could use the catch can only in line with the stock system as well. But you couldn't vent to atmosphere then as it would introduce a vacuum leak to the engine. It would still separate the oil first before reaching the intake. You would also lose the steady vacuum in the crankcase beneficial to making power that the electric pump provides as the vacuum from the intake decreases with load to as low as 4 or 5inHg or lower when under under full load. This is why the full load breather reverses I'm guessing.
This setup will be extremely beneficial to boosted engines but I'm betting between this, the cold air intake, and cat delete that an NA 4.0 will gain 15+ hp besides eliminating carbon buildup and annoying oil leaks.

 

Good read on the benefits of an external vacuum pump for crankcase ventilation

 

Here's another thought I had this morning and I'll have to test vacuum at the intake since no one here seems to know but most engines, at least V8s, pull from 18 to 22 inHg at idle and it drops as load increases. I want to see how much is pulled at the low load breather on these cars.
This pump pulls 16inHg then shuts itself down.
So I thought why not use the pump in conjunction with the intake vacuum. It would kick on when load increased and system vacuum dropped below 16 inHg As load falls off and system vacuum reaches 16 inHg and higher, the pump would shut itself off.
A sealed catch can would be used instead of a vented one to atmosphere but all the oil and nasty blow by crud would be filtered out by the can anyway. This would maintain a steady vacuum that never dropped below 16 inHg. This would be perfect as the 14 to 16 inHg is considered the safe zone without having to add a high volume oil pump.
This would keep the full load breather from ever reversing and serve as a fresh air in only. Another vent could easily be added if needed too. I have a rubber grommet kit complete with 2 different sized hole saws to easily add one to the right side valve cover. Or better yet, connect the 2 valve covers in the rear with a 5/16" or 3/8" line.

 

Well look at this. Just what I was talking about only better. An oil catch can designed for 2 separate vacuum sources. It automatically chooses the best vacuum source for continuous vacuum and the ultimate in crankcase ventilation. Patent pending.
Improve ring seal, stop oil leaks, and keep that crankcase and oil clean, increase hp considerably.
It is a little pricey but like I said, under load the vacuum at the intake manifold will drop tremendously. The pump will then kick in and this can is designed to automatically choose the best vacuum source.

ADD W1 ver. 3.3 catch can

Features / Oil catch can

• Patent pending
  • universal V3.3
    • V3.3 oil catch can work if the vehicle is in idle or in acceleration and is more efficient than a single oil catch can
      • Automatic select the best possible suction source & Continuous Cleaning in idle or Wide open throttle Driving Condition
        • Multiple Brackets Positions
          • Includes universal bracket & Screws
            • Includes pre-cut high-performance vacuum hose
              • Closed loop or open system in-line with the PCV system to separate oil particles
                • Constructed with high-grade Lightweight 6061 Aircraft Aluminum
                  • Easy-drain plug / Remote Quick Drain Valve (optional)
                    • Customizable color insert rings available in 8 different colors
                      • Available in Carbon fiber / reduces weight / improves engine bay
                        • size 4.30" high x 2.50" diameter
                          • Limited Lifetime Warranty

Features / TRIPLE Twister Chamber

• ADD W1 V3.3 Special engineered TRIPLE Twister Chamber to trap more Oil
  • Internal Baffle TRIPLE Twister chamber filter system
    • Filter and can are fully serviceable
      • Internal baffle 3 stage chamber filter system
        • High-flow TRIPLE Twister Chamber without affecting PCV/CCV pressures filter
          • Effectively raises the octane
            • increases engine performance from cleaner inlet air
              • Prevents oil buildup in the intake, intercooler, throttle body, etc.

 

Ok, I got my pump installed. It's in the brake boost/resevoir compartment where it should be isolated from engine heat and hopefully dampen the noise. This particular pump is kinda loud.
Here's a pic of tne pump installed.



Close up of the pump and the single screw used to mount it. The in and out ports face forward.



But, while I'm waiting on my ADD W1 ver. 3.3 with dual clean side ports, I thought I'd post this vid that shows another, more popular option to the pump as a second vacuum source for high load conditions when the part load breather loses most of its vacuum causing the Full load breather to reverse flow.
In our case, the end where the tube connects to the throttle body would get tapped into to provide vacuum during high load. Now Im not sure exactly how much vacuum this will offer but I'm guessing a relatively good vacuum.
Here's the vid.

 

Here are pics of the same piston in an engine. The first is with the stock epa mandated crankcase breathers routed back into the intake. The second pic is of the same piston with the crankcase breathers routed to atmosphere. It has 3 times the miles on it than the first pic.
Running without some type of crankcase breather mod, either vented to atmosphere or using a catch can, to keep the oil and nasty crap out of the intake tract will eventually cause all sorts of problems and greatly reduce the life of your engine.
I'm really surprised more people here don't get that. I see threads from people with issues and the cause of these issues is totally ignored and not addressed. It's your engine burning this nasty crap. It WILL cause carbon. It WILL lower the octane rating of the intake charge. The issues that follow can cause serious engine damage. Put a catch can in. Even if it's a cheap $25 one. It will help reduce the carbon buildup at least. They're simple to install. And simple to remove for inspections if you live where vehicles are inspected.
If manufacturers had a choice, they would not set these cars up this way. They are forced to. It's up to you, the end user, to fix it. That's the world we live in because the EPA was left to run unchecked for way too many years. Think about these issues that affect your vehicles' wellbeing and other issues on election days and help put the EPA on a leash. The earth isn't going to end because you don't ruin your engine. It's a ridiculous mandate.
I can't stress this enough.

 

This looks very interesting, and as much fun as fitting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. What did you do for an electrical source for the pump? And, where are you going to mount the can?

 

The pigtail for this pump is a 4 wire. It's used in Ford and dodge applications to control the hvac and 4wd .
Only 2 wires are used for this application. Power and ground. The wires are discretely run to the fuse box location. I currently have the ground going to the ground point just below the smaller fuse box and the power to a keyed source.
The can I plan to mount behind the throttle body off the the bracket that the center cover sits on. See the pic where the screwdriver is. This can is only 4 1/2" tall and I'll be using their remote drain so I won't have to unscrew the bottom to drain it. Another location is off the rear screw behind the left side hood latch. More room there as you can see in the first pic of the pump. Between the latch and the brake boost. There's a few more locations out in the open that would work as well. In front of the larger fuse box is one. On the outside of the brake boost/reservoir compartment is another.

 

The piece of tape in the pic is the most common spot and my back up for the 2nd source of vacuum with the ADD W1 ver 3.3 catch can setup.
I want adequate vacuum at all times from the part load breather location with the full load breather being air in only.
The other possibility Im considering is blocking off the full load altogether and keep it from sucking fresh air in under low load. This air in, while helping keep the oil and crankcase clean, also adds to crankcase pressure in the first place. I change my oil more frequently anyway.

 

Ok, so for for the sake of keeping this thread simple and to the point for those looking to upgrade the breather system, after going exploring different options for the second vacuum source, it appears the vacuum pump will work as I had hoped afterall.

Idling and part load this pump will not run. It won't kick on til the vacuum from the intake drops below 16inHg as intended. Under higher load, and exactly when that happens is yet to be determined, it will kick on. When the vacuum is higher than vacuum from the intake the can with it's 2 check valves will use it instead of vacuum from the intake. Once the load drops to where the intake vacuum is higher, it will switch to it. And finally, once the intake vacuum reaches 16inHg at lower load and idle, the vacuum pump will shut itself off altogether.
This is great news for pump longetivity and it SHOULD keep the vacuum high enough at all loads to keep the full load from ever reversing flow and remain metered air in only.
I MAY connect the two cam covers in the rear by drilling a hole in each big enough for grommets that will hold and seal a fitting to connect a hose to them in the rear. This will aid in crankcase evac, help ensure the full load breather remains air in, and will hide neatly behind the engine virtually unseen.

Best case this set up will maintain at least 10inHg of vacuum but no more that 14 to 16. This will increase power, especially under load by making it so the pistons and crank are not fighting ANY pressure, improve ring seal resulting in less blowby in the first place, and cure chronic oil leaks.
Worse case it maintains a minimum of 5 to 6 inHg. Adequate for good ventilation without the full load breather reversing flow and dragging oil into the intake tube.
Either way is a success. One would be a great success as I think it will be.

Once I finalize hookups and tidy it all up, I'll post pics of the entire setup. I'll verify vacuum at different stages of pump operation with a gauge as well.

 

For those wanting to know how I'm wiring the pump, there's a red wire with I think its a blue stripe going to the outer most relay of the two left of the radiator. Seems to me that's the power on/off relay for the wipers. Anyway, this wire is switched ground. I'll pull power from the main terminal feeding the fuse boxes under the hood. Simple done. I'll wire in a fuse but this pump only pulls a whopping 1 amp.

 

Ok, so I got the pump wired in using a switched ground and a fused hot to the positive terminal for the smaller fuse box under the hood. It's now hooked up as the second source of vacuum to the can.
The pumps runs when the key is turned on and for a few seconds after starting the car til vacuum builds in the intake. Once it hits 16inHg of vacuum the pump shuts off. If I squeeze the line off to intake vacuum simulating full load loss of intake vacuum and when it drops below 16inHg, the pump kicks on and runs.

Here's a pic of the finished install...


,

 

Couple things. You'll notice in the last 2 pics above I dremeled the opening in the left engine cover to route the vacuum line from can to intake thru it instead on top of it.
Also, the full load breather has a hose with a one way valve in it. Air can only go in the engine and not reverse. I can also insert fittings in the other end of the hose to restrict air in thus increasing vacuum should I deem it necessary. I'm about to test vacuum now to see where I'm at at idle and low load first.

 

After testing vacuum at the can in the dip stick hole, I was at 17inHg at idle. I restricted the full load hose to 1/8" giving me an idle of 18inHg. I can feel a slight vacuum at the dipstick tube and more at the oil fill cap.
My electric vacuum pump kicks on when vacuum drops to 10inHg. I would like it to kick on when it drops to 12inHg but 10inHg is more than enough for sufficient crankcase ventilation and it will run til it hits 16inHg again or the intake vacuum does.

Below is a pic of the restrictor in the full load breather hose. There's also a one way valve in that hose that fits tightly in the intake tube end of that full load breather hose allowing air into the engine but not out. No reason for it to reverse anymore as the part load breather is now an all load breather. Mission accomplished.
No more carbon buildup from oil and sludge being sent back into the combustion chamber causing hot spots and detonation and the crankcase has sufficient vacuum at all times to evacuate the combustion gasses that do blow by the rings tho this blowby should be reduced by means of better ring seal as a result of this constant vacuum. Pesky oil leaks reduced as well.
In stock form, vacuum from the intake had to be practically non existent when flow would reverse and exit the full load breather. There should also be a considerable bump in power of 3 to 6% and octane levels restored.



This should be a sticky as every car, Jag or otherwise, would benefit greatly from it.

 

Ran it to work and back twice today and somewhat loose with the go pedal and I swear it ran better, sounded better, and got up and went better than it ever has. Especially under harder acceleration/load.
Heard the pump kick on when accelerating somewhat hard and promptly quit letting off. Vacuum has to drop below 10inHg for it to kick on.
Fortunately I had to really listen to hear it. I was afraid it would be loud but with the hood shut and engine running, it's hardly noticeable.

 

please could you make a video showing all the steps for novices like myself. I Would love to give this a go for my Xj8 2000 4L and I reckon so would everyone else.