Under hood battery connection design idea
Hi everyone,
I had this connection fail on me and I was stranded and it cost $1700 to fix the damage, Towing, Alternator, battery etc.
As I'm rebuilding the motor and I have access to the car I came up with this idea.
comments from the techs please.
If it gets a thumbs up, I will make some.
I had this connection fail on me and I was stranded and it cost $1700 to fix the damage, Towing, Alternator, battery etc.
As I'm rebuilding the motor and I have access to the car I came up with this idea.
comments from the techs please.
If it gets a thumbs up, I will make some.
Last edited by Roger77; Feb 14, 2013 at 11:02 PM.
The battery side seems to have the same problem as the original.
The large nut needs to thread down on the barrel so that it is not the contact surface for the battery side.
Of course that might just be a problem with the drawing.
I'd be interested
A commercially available alternative is a barrel splicer as used by electricians on large gauge power circuits. It is a double ended collet. The two bare wire ends are inserted and the outer threaded barrels are tightened. The resulting connection is considered superior to soldering. You would need a bulkhead version, or feed the cable through and nake the connection on the inside of the bulkhead. These things are sometimes found as battery cable splicers.
The large nut needs to thread down on the barrel so that it is not the contact surface for the battery side.
Of course that might just be a problem with the drawing.
I'd be interested

A commercially available alternative is a barrel splicer as used by electricians on large gauge power circuits. It is a double ended collet. The two bare wire ends are inserted and the outer threaded barrels are tightened. The resulting connection is considered superior to soldering. You would need a bulkhead version, or feed the cable through and nake the connection on the inside of the bulkhead. These things are sometimes found as battery cable splicers.
Hi everyone,
I had this connection fail on me and I was stranded and it cost $1700 to fix the damage, Towing, Alternator, battery etc.
As I'm rebuilding the motor and I have access to the car I came up with this idea.
comments from the techs please.
If it gets a thumbs up, I will make some.

I had this connection fail on me and I was stranded and it cost $1700 to fix the damage, Towing, Alternator, battery etc.
As I'm rebuilding the motor and I have access to the car I came up with this idea.
comments from the techs please.
If it gets a thumbs up, I will make some.
The step goes through the plastic, it would require opening up the hole to 3/4" (20mm)
The big hex nut would lock onto the face of the large diameter creating face to face contact on all the connections, no threads to transmit voltage
The big hex nut would lock onto the face of the large diameter creating face to face contact on all the connections, no threads to transmit voltage
Last edited by Roger77; Feb 14, 2013 at 11:01 PM.
remote cutoff is a good idea Sean
BUT I just checked jegs.com $89.95 for a good kill switch
BUT I just checked jegs.com $89.95 for a good kill switch
Last edited by Roger77; Feb 14, 2013 at 10:59 PM.
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Charlene n John
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
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Sep 28, 2015 06:01 AM
1964, 1999, 2003, alternator, battery, battery connector, connection, connections, connector, etype, front, hood, jaguar, jaugar, picture, xk8
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