Hi Guys (and Gals!),


it's been a while since I posted (but I've been reading), cause nothing exciting was happening. Today,....it happened! Left side (driver's USA) windows did not want to operate. Front door not at all, and the rear works only off of the switch on the rear door (but not off of the master switch on the driver's door).

My first reaction is to replace the master switch, but I wanted to check here first, in case I'm missing something.

What do YOU think?

Thanks.

 

battery voltage is?

Carry out a hard reset before swapping parts. I thought you'd be onto trying this by now Daniel??

Hope this sorts it.

 

You can verify the window operation with the key in the door.
UNLOCK AND HOLD THE KEY IN THAT POSITION.
The windows should all roll down.
Hold the key in the lock position and they should all roll up.

If the windows function, then it is PROBABLY the driver door switchpack.

But as Sean B recommended, try a hard reset first.

bob gauff

 

Thanks Lads!

Will try the reboot first. Didn't measure voltage on the battery yet. Thing just happened, was busy with my horses, and it's getting dark here in CA. Will play with it tomorrow, and report.

 

Before I go to reboot (hate to lose all the data, and go to the "learn" process)........battery voltage on the battery is 12,27V (engine off) and the same reads on the bulkhead. With engine on, I have 13,75V on the battery, and 14,22V on the bulkhead. Windows operate as they should, with the key in the door lock.

Master switch, or what? I just can't believe that the reboot would "fix" it. If no switches work, I would understand, but only the left side on the master, seems unlikely. Right side (on the master), and all independent switches on other doors work just fine.

Please let me know ASAP.

Thanks.

 

I had very similar symptoms after leaving my ign on.....(long story....) turned out that I had a flat battery - I left it on charge from the mains charger for a day and all was well.

It's possible that

1) A hard rest will un-confuse any confused electronics.
2) The battery is not charging and the voltage collapses under load...If the voltage is 13/14 volts with the engine on that sounds like the alternator /charging circuit is working....but the battery could be on the way out, not holding charge.....

Allan

 

Believe me, disconnecting your battery, letting the car sit for a while, and reconnecting it can solve quite a few mysterious problems.

I am now on driver's switchpack #3. Both of the first two were destroyed by simply having left the windows down when rainstorms came. And, yes, I did take the second one apart to be sure it was dry and clean, but it still wouldn't work.

With switchpack #3, the day after I installed it, it went very wacko. The two driver's side buttons operated the passenger's side windows and the driver's windows wouldn't work. A "hard reboot" done by disconnecting the battery cured this.

As an aside, if you're ever replacing the driver's switchpack I strongly recommend "tenting" it across the top side and draping down all the edges with Glad Press n' Seal (or the equivalent). I have, of course, had several additional surprise rains since the last switchpack went in and have not had this one fry.

I'm not quite sure what's meant by "losing all data." My experience is that virtually all of the intentional memories (e.g., seat/mirror, radio, etc.) are non-volatile.

 

By "losing data" I was refering to tranny, that will need to relearn the shifting points, etc.
But I will reboot it today, ...I am not looking forward to the drive to a junkyard (two hurs away), on Saturday. It would be way better if the reboot works.
I'll let you know.

 

No dice! Reboot did not work. So it's the master switch on the driver's door. Off to junkyard on Saturday.

 

Just FYI, I have purchased my switchpacks from Welcome - Specialized Parts Planet. I have no commercial interest of any kind in this business, but have been happy with their parts and customer service.

The only caveat I have is that you need to ask about and/or specify acceptable condition for the part you want if it is "cosmetically pertinent." The second one that I got was in very rough shape, but I hadn't specified, and it was 100% functional. I simply did a "button transplant" from my old one, which is a tedious, but far from impossible task.

Brian

 

sorry to hear about your switch pack problem....had window problems myself about a month ago....grahm....suggested a re-set with terminal removal of the battery.....it worked....i would also check rubber window runner/seal.......for any gaps....as if water builds up in there....will effect window operation.....good luck and let us know how you made out.....