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Then you should consider getting a smart charger or maintainer as others here have suggested. I have one for each car , , , but then, that's because I can't drive more than one at a time. LOL.
Repeated deep draw down of any car battery is a certain death sentence, with many giving only 3 years or so service. Mine last about 10 years or more because they are maintained always at full charge. That's the beauty of a truly "smart" charger . . . they not only trickle down as full charge is approached . . . they then wake up and start recharging as the battery charge begins to fall.
Subject to the conditions Brutal has listed, all Jaguars of this era enter a "sleep state" after 30 minutes, after which the current draw should be 30ma (or less). If not, the car is not asleep. All these issues and how to isolate circuits preventing sleep were fully explored in the S-Type forum > Sticky "How to . . ." > Miscellaneous > "Battery 101"
That link (and the others with it) on S-Type forum > Sticky "How to . . ." > Miscellaneous > "Battery 101" is to a file that is “unavailable/no longer hosted at Mediafire”.
Ken
Last edited by Ken Cantor; Dec 17, 2024 at 09:08 PM.
Test battery outside car at the local auto parts store
The big test on the big auto parts store machine ( not the little hand held tester ) takes about 1 hour removed from car
On reinstalling do not hook up battery backwards , positive post fwd , do not over tighten the positive battery post terminal bolt , breaks special saddle nut underneath , ask me how I know on both of these things
In the beginning as you remove the key to exit the car :
The linier switch from pin 4 to 5 at the Ignition switch connector makes to start a security lock down sequence
As the SLCM is awake it will draw normal X amont of current
After the SLCU has received agreements ( steering collum retracted and up sensor positions , seat retracted back sensor positions and doors and such locked by their position sensors ) will the SLCM go to sleep , 20 - 40 milliamp draw in sleep mode
The above-mentioned devices can fail to reach their positions or sensors bad
The pin 4 to 5 can be a stuck ignition switch , the connector can be contaminated , and the pin 5 which is a car frame ground can be disturbed
You can take the manual steering collum adjustment knob from auto to off to remove steering and seats from the needed agreements for the SLCM to go to sleep
You can lube the key barrel with a graphite spray but a dripping mess
No need to remove switch from barrel as it is attached to key barrel but in worst case if replaced no new key needed as key barrel stays in place
Last edited by Parker 7; Dec 18, 2024 at 10:24 AM.
Ken,
That link (and the others with it) on S-Type forum > Sticky "How to . . ." > Miscellaneous > "Battery 101" is to a file that is “unavailable/no longer hosted at Mediafire”.
Thanks mate for alerting us to this. As per my new thread in the S-Type forum, I have asked the Mods to correct this. Both JTIS and many of our most respected gurus contributed to the advice given there and, a decade later, these issues are still entangling owners in needless expense and worry. I feel sure our Mods will resurrect the files and perhaps also give both the Battery 101 and Quiescent Current Drain the greater prominence they deserve.