Took it apart replaced the map/overhead lights w/ LEDs & cleaned the reflectors thoroughly. So far I've only compared it in low light settings but it does appear to be SDZ so if all the buttons,lights work, it's a keeper. If not I'll just use the wood from it. Plan on installing tomm. & tackling my 3rd brake light.

 

I think that is OEM, guess your old one was already lost at an earlier re-bar event
Glad to see this speedy and easy recovery though.

 

Ah, that is interesting, and sure enough upon close inspection of the old valance I can see evidence of where a deflector once was. As you say, must have been lost during previous low level encounters. Thanks for the info Eric.

 

Yeah, bro, it`s really cool !

 

Finally we have wood !? Daylight revealed it wasn't a perfect match for my SDZ but being my headliner is new & when they did it, they used a contrasting sunroof trim/lip so the new console matches that perfectly, it's growing on me.

 

I am rather sure that if I tell you that the mismatch will start to annoy you soon, you will be doing that wood transfer ...
And IT'S A MISMATCH, you know it, excuses or not

Fortunately, making one out of 2 is not that complicated, just be careful with the plastics ... as usual on our cars ....

 

Yes I'm waiting on a discontinued mounting piece to arrive before I go back to tinkering lol, I currently have one rolling about in my headliner, gotta love 2 am automotive projects.

 

Pull the pedal position sensor plug off the throttle body and push it back on. See if the problem clear up. I spent years trying to figure out the weird problems and error messages until I finally figured that out. It may be the throttle position connector but in my case it was the pedal sensor plug. It is on the drives side if the throttle body. Throttle position sensor is on the passenger side. (USA Jaguar)

 

Attempted to switch covers & replace bulbs in my 3rd brake light. As expected the old cover disintegrated on touch while removing it, no big deal I had a back up cover via Carnival Kid. Well the light bar decided it wanted to be temperamental & every bulb I removed refused to re-light w/ numerous new incandescent bulbs so I had to go w/ some white LEDs I had laying around. Really odd though the bulbs that were working in other sockets on the bar stopped working after I removed them & even tried moving them down the line. The new Sylvanias would not light either. So after having to hop out of the cramped back window to the driver's seat several times to check the lights(my assistant/son was out gallivanting, go figure) a perceived small task had climbed to tedious status lol.

Insult to injury the charcoal/black housing that the light bar & cover attach to, disintegrated as I tried to insert the cover's tangs, go figure. I guess I'm going to just spring & get a new fixture. There are a couple on eBay in oatmeal which if it bothers me too much I can color w/ my left over seat dye in SDZ. End the end, I replaced bulbs but my damn light is still perched on a chamois tube lol. On a plus note my metal mount tabs are still firmly attached to the window so there's that.

I must say that the Jag plastics are the absolute worst I have encountered. That goes for cars' that are even older like my Infiniti Q45,Lexus LS400 all have better plastics under the same circumstances(20+ years old etc.) but none are as sexy lol.

I washed & hand waxed for the upcoming winter w/ Collinite 845.

 

Now w/ the 3rd brake light in ruins it now rattles w/ music(I have aftermarket 12 inch subs ported via the OEM rear parcel slot). Now this will surely hasten my decision to purchase a new light fixture lol those subs were painstakingly installed to be rattle/knock free, so this is unacceptable.

Hopefully the wise lot here will give me pro tips on how to remove that shelf to remove the light until I stabilize it or secure another.

 

First post and finished my coilover conversion!

 

Wow, super nice, what's the scoop on this setup, would love cool overs on my XJR!

 

Well it's a 99 XJR with everything getting modified slowly but surely! Coilovers are a set of Viking double adjustable's, still have to design the front setup though. Next on the list is a custom intake and free flowing 2.5" exhaust!

 

Is there enough adjustability to lower the car a bit? (Particularly of interest for the front). Has the spring rate been altered?

 

Rear still has plenty of adjustment and I believe the front will have plenty as well. Rear spring is a 10" 550 lb, also from Viking.

 

Got a link to this Viking? And these are actually Jaguar coilovers? Model?

 

This is not a direct bolt in set up. I designed this set up and came up with a universal sized coilover from Viking. All you have to do is reuse the one washer from the old shock, drill it out for the bushing lip to sit inside it, then weld that washer to the top of the bucket. This is they're website, http://vi-king.com/ , they make some awesome stuff! I'll post the model number of the coilovers, where to purchase them from and photos on how what I did soon.

 

So the following parts where ordered through https://atomicfabandperformance.com/ , shocks C207-R, springs 10DP550, and spanner wrench kit 7995-102.

So as I said before, I reused the one washer from the old shock, drilled it out and welded it to the top of the bucket.

 

My LEDS in the rear reading/courtesy lamps are "ghosting"/glowing when the car's off & it's bothering me lol. I remember all the grief I endured when I made the initial switch w/ breaking light fixtures a couple times & having to wait for replacements etc. I know it's a quick fix bulb wise, just use the error free/canbus types, but I really don't want to deal w/ any more Jaguar plastics right now lol. as they are fashioned from eggshells & unicorn tears apparently.

 

I don't think error free LED's will solve that problem, it is the residue left in the electric circuits.