Yep. I use torque wrench and cross pattern.

 

I'd be looking at sticky calipers then, as long as the mating face on the hubs is perfectly clean and undamaged.

 

Dropped the rear subframe to replace the control arm bushings, and the two above the diff, and to change the oil. The control arm pivot pins were a little seized so it took some encouragement with penetrating oil, a big breaker bar, and heat to free those.

When I pulled the diff pinion stub off to remove the crossmember piece, a couple pieces of mystery plastic came out of somewhere inside near it. I tried to take the diff cover off to look inside but I don't have a long enough socket to get the big studs off. Add to that the 50mph howl the diff has had, and the pinion stub play and "rattly" play of the stub when assembled, I think it's time to hunt for a lower mileage used diff...

 

oh jeezz guys, after dunno how many years of suffering utterly inadequate gearbox i did finally fix it this weekend, tested today and it works as it should!!!
this "state of art" piece of junk failed on me with drum and piston few years ago and few months ago i've got torque converter replaced with high stall one but anyway it was not up to task of being called gearbox, so i got bmw valve body from local auction, sent lower part for TCC valve oversize, thursday pulled mine and out of both i did one working
..and, and it is a jag again, i cannot be more happy!!!

 

Nothing nags quite like a transmission that is not quite right. We are glad you were able to get it to the
point of satisfaction!

 

Not as exciting but I drove mine to work today. As I walked away from it in the car park I thought, yet again, that I must get the rear arches sorted soon.

 

Leathercare for the classic beauty.

 

Nice! Before I found you little text-entry, I already thought you bought new leather seat covers. Looks great.

 

Brown seatbelts ?

 

Washed her and battery replacement job expanded to a surface rust remove and paint job of the battery slot. Old battery was swollen, leaked from one of the seams and melted the breather nipple. I would say that that battery was well done.

 

We have all done this...... surfing the Internet looking for parts, oils and filters for our particular model, whilst simultaneously cross referencing the part number(s) with this online forum for confirmation; be it for/or against ordering what's possibly needed, only to not buy anything at all, and managing to kill billions of grey cells in the process.

 

Well, I don't know about my grey cells, but I - in contrast - do all that, but then followed by actually buying what I was looking for - sometimes after finding unicorns... The best one there was finding the second half for the "half-water-pumps", which are being offered/sold for the S-Type, which do not help too much, if the corrosion is in that part, which cannot be bought... Only yesterday I spend a few hours searching and reading up what do do about sagging headliners. I understood what is needed and finally found head-liner material (light beige) suede with foam attached in the right size. And just now I am looking again for the rubber strips, which I bought for my X-Type years ago, and not I need them for the next X-Type - something, which probably no one else ever bothered about: The plastic covers to the left & right of the windscreen of the X-Type have rubber attached, which is very damaged after all those years and I found a way to fix that,,, - just need to find that very special rubber strip again....

"

 

Finalized my Brembo swap, bedded the brakes, and made a thread about it.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...99-xjr-270406/

 

Waxed the Duchess and checked her brakes for wear. I also checked the tire pressure. One was 7 pounds
low. I must have picked up a nail or something.

 

I Drove in to MOT station and drove out without any advisors or faults.

 

> I Drove in to MOT station and drove out without any advisors or faults.
I did the same 3 weeks ago (1998 X308), equally without any problems.

 

Btw, earlier in this topic I mentioned about new brake discs. I installed all of the discs two weeks ago and it has been smooth braking ever since. Topping that with new set of Goodyear eagle f1 asymmetric 6 tires in 235/45 r18 size threw all of the vibrations and shakyness away. Finally after years of fighting tire and brake problems. I truely hope that these tyres will stand winter storage without ANY issues. And brake discs stay straingh and true of course.

 

Got a low coolant light: coolant level is correct. The coolant level sensor appears to have slipped out of the reservoir. Reinstalled: still have the light. Ordered a new sensor from Rock Auto; if that doesn't fix the problem will order a new reservoir, which comes with new sensor, float and cap. In the meantime, cross circuit the the sensor to quit the light.

 

Ive had that occasionally. I use some chopsticks to stir the coolant in the reservoir and manipulate the float. It fixes the problem

 

Coming up on needing new tires this summer and I have these on my short list of candidates. Just curious why you went with 235/45 instead of 255/40 though? Price, ride, tramlining issues?