Yes, there can be other reasons for the ABS light to come one (as I mentioned above), But I'd say the ABS-light playing silly bugger after a battery disconnect is the most likely one, which should be fixable by just driving.
"Dry solder points" (=cold welds) of the 2 power supply points of the ABS module might also be the root-cause for the issue (apart from defect ABS sensors, damages cables to the sensors, corroded connector in line to the sensors and damages sensor-rings.) And if it is the 2 solder points, the most elegant way to fix this is carefully drilling two holes into the module at the right spot to get access to the solder points:

 

Today I finished replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter. I am not sure which one is worst.
Fortunately the tank in my 2000 XJ8 is attached with rubber hoses under the vehicle with a 15 cm ( 6 inch) radius bend that allows the tank to be brought forward just enough and provide enough of a tip forward to access the top access hole. I had done that in my '01 years ago and as I was removing things I recalled it was easier, in relative terms, than I thought. 3 hours if focused, 5 if dallying.

The most fiddly is getting the bottom fuel pump tab in the bracket slot and aligning the pump bracket top hole with the swirl basin screw hole while getting the baffle cover to align too, all blind by feel with half your arm stuff into the tank, ARRRGH!!!!

Of note is verifying the correct fuel connector slot in the underside of the vapor cap to place the power lead from th pump as on my x308 the vapor cap connector is built to accommodate two fuel pumps wiring, but the harness only uses two wires in the connector. Makes me wish I had the in tank brackets to install the second pump as a spare, but once this one is purring again it is time to thin the litter.

And yes, the fuel filter also uses, and needs separately sourced O rings in the x308, and same filter as the x350 which I think I forgot to respond to that question- apologies.

 

Gave her a wash and cleaned inside. Then greased all of the locks and keyholes. After these pressed grease to the half shafts U joints. Then drove her to winter storage hall. Summer is therefore over.

 

My 2001 XJR had its bonnet release lever break. Ordered a new one from SNG Barratt, perfect fit! Got the new one installed myself and feeling pretty proud of my handiwork. Then I test it and the new part breaks in exactly the same spot as the old one - right where the release cables attach to the pull lever. Oh well, guess I'll keep some pliers handy in case I need to access the engine bay!

 

It’s probably because one of the hood cables isn’t releasing (?) and you overextended the handle because you thought you didn’t pull it far enough?? If that’s the scenario, then you need to manually open the hood latch. Many posts can be searched for “hood not opening”.

 

hood is badly misaligned or cable is stretched my guy

 

There are two cable releases on an x308. They attach to either side of the bonnet release lever, which is the part pictured here. After removing the broken part, I tested both cables. Hood opens fine, minimal effort. I've owned the car for 2 years, only has 80k miles on it, so, pretty low for an 18 year old car. I say that because I don't think the part was overworked. I think the problem is Jag using brittle plastic for the "catch" that actually tugs on each cable. There is a catch on each side (circled in red) and, on the original part, both were broken. On the replacement part (new old stock), only one of them broke during my initial testing. So I think the most likely explanations are:

80% chance that 20 year old plastic isn't strong enough to tug these cable releases
15% chance that the cable release is requiring a level of tension that exceeds what the original release mechanism was designed to withstand. I suppose I could WD-40 the releases in the bonnet and see if that reduces the tension required, and go replace this part a 2nd time.
5% chance it's something else

Circled area is the weak spot that breaks.

 

man we know

it’s a problem on the latch side. figure it out before you pop the ball out and have to drill a hole in your wheel well

 

Hello,

Replaced the upper front shock mounts on one of the 2000 VDPs yesterday, (J2) with mounts by Meyle. Plus replaced the shock billows and under mount bumpers too with the help of my 19 yo grandson. He did most of the work, with some direction from me, so it was a fun time! Also, we did an oil change while under the car.
I do have to say those Meyle mounts are a bit nicer riding then the URO versions on have on J3. (Or is it just my imagination?) Worth it to me to pay the bit extra. The car has new Micheline's so it rides smooth with no rattles or squeaks at all. Love these cars!

At this point we're down the the two VDPs and thankful for that!

 

Today I drove my 308 again - I just don't drive it very often, but it is in top nick.
I need to drive it again more often now, as the petrol in there is simply getting too old.
When I don't drive it, it is in a 3-layer-cocoon: 1. Thick blankets, 2. Proper Hail Cover, 3. Huge silver tarps.
It was like new under there, when I unwrapped it.
The only thing I did over the last few month was recharging the battery periodically, that's all.
It started perfectly and immediately after all that time.
But then there was a disturbing knocking noise, when I drove off...
I had no idea, what it was, but my wife had a hunch, she went out of the car and removed a branch/twiggy-thingy (kind of like a small x-mas tree) that was stuck under the Jag in the middle of the car...
That was an easy fix...

And the usual thing: Even so I never disconnected the battery and the battery was never low, after all that time of not driving the ABS light came on again. But I know that already: "Just driving" fixes it. I drove 2km, stopped at a shopping centre, and after that no more ABS light...

 

Bought new tires (2x pilot sport 4s) to replace the worn rears - then swapped my fronts to rear to try and address the weird front end vibration I've had for forever (ending up with the Michelins up front). Still getting a vibration but now it feels much more consistent, like maybe a simple balancing problem than the weird flat spotting I felt before. Or maybe there's some structural weakness in my XJR's body causing oscillations, or I'm just cursed with defective tires (the Volvo also came with vibrations likely from bad tires, hooray), or the shop is doing a bad job balancing, or all the above...

In better news, it is upgrade day! Scored a set of R1 calipers (and hoses) for super cheap from a junkyard. Now I just need to verify clearance on my wheels as soon as it's dry outside (I'm hopeful because the aftermarket wheels have a +20 offset vs the factory +33), then get new rotors and pads ordered up, and tap the front hub mounts for them. And scrub a ton, so much dust on these things...


Wanted these things for a really long time, but could never justify the cost of what they typically go for.

 

Nice find. Since they are silver with red lettering, they were originally for an xjr 100. Is that junkyard parting out a 100?

 

Yeah and I sure could use all 4 brake backing plates but I’m sure those were crushed in the dirt.

 

Verified clearance with my wheels time for rotor and pad shopping. Checked the pads in the calipers and they have Jag OEM part numbers on the pads, kind of makes me with I'd asked for the rotors off the partout too... Oh well

Re brake backing plates/dust shields - I did actually specifically ask the yard for those, they told me they were absent. Which made me think that it could have been a retrofit, but I looked closer at the yard's photos and I think I see "XKR 100" one of the photos of the door sills...
PM's sent with yard info

 

Yes, it is an xkr 100.

 

I am stoked.

On my 2002 xj8, I changed: front pads, rotors and shocks and it is a new car.

I don't understand why the rotors got so shredded and there is still liner on the pads. ( I replaced with coated rotors)

This sucess is inspiring me to try to fix the sagging head liner.

jeff xj8

 

Somebody actually put sport shocks on that XJ8? I’ve heard of an XJ Sport getting them but not the base model ones... interesting..

 

Sagging headliner is such a drag. Getting that sorted will allow you much more appreciation of the car.

 

In the meantime, quarter inch staples will keep it in place . .

 

Thick rust on disc surface does not clean off via braking. It will stay on and spread. Eventually you get discs you see in the pictures. Pratcically when you brake with rusted discs pad will only polish the rust and wear itself down. Same time you have worse friction between disc and pad and worse brakes.

Overnight flash rust does not mean anything.