Definitely pass on the chain which you already did. The two large primary chains are called Morse chains while the secondaries are the conventional roller chains. Those Morse chains and the updated tensioners are from 8/2001 on up. The date will be above the water pump on the right.
I'll have to see what it says. No bad thing, I guess.
I was looking at it, the thermostat has been replaced fairly recently, just going by calibrated eyeball.
The pump hasn't been leaking, but I was eyeing it. The mounts are the same on both this and the one in the car.
Those are in-car swaps though. Access to both the water pump and thermostat are good
Pulled the center console and fitted the replacement ashtray unit. Light works, lighter works (75 watts, quite beefy!) and the lid now flips open with a light touch.
Need to change the armrest. Cup holder is broken and it's the wrong color.
Refitted the crank pulley and accessories.
Pulled the plugs. They all look good. Compression was a touch low dry, added some oil and that woke the rings up.
Checked and charged the AC - just not much it can do with these 105-110 days
If you run it on the recirculating setting and keep it there then it will continue to cool/re-cool the car’s interior air only without trying to continually cool 105-110F exterior air. Both it and you will probably have an easier time coping.
Cleaned up the fuel filler neck.
The ethanol vapor appears to be behind turning the pot metal into gray powder. Removed that and it looks ok.
Found also that all modern rubber is trash. These were new in 2019. Jacking the car up and having the weight of the suspension on it caused it to explode.
Suggestions? Polyurethane? Keep it regular rubber bushings?
Having an all black car definitely has its drawbacks.
I haven’t had a black car for a while but the Carnival Red and the Regency Red on the last two daily driver Jags have the similar trait of looking dusty almost as quickly as you could wash them.
I remember late night television ads for California Dusters and put them in the same classification as miracle mileage boosters and pocket fishermen. Then I had someone I respect recommend them and quickly became a convert.
They’re no substitute for washing the car when it’s actually dirty but for picking up dust and restoring that “just washed” look to an otherwise clean car, to quote Tony the Tiger, they really do work GREAAAT in a matter of minutes.
I drove mine to work so it'd had a run this week. I really must replace the wiper as there's in inch or so of it not working & that happens to be just at eye level when I cleaned the screen earlier.
Anyone else find the wipers on these cars seem to only last a few months even when you buy decent makes? I've never known a car like it for streaks as soon as the wiper gets slightly old.
Having a single blade requires a longer blade and that is where the rub is.
The longer the blade is the less downward force that is applied to the spline.
Premium blades make some difference, but the fault is in the design.
I drove mine to work so it'd had a run this week. I really must replace the wiper as there's in inch or so of it not working & that happens to be just at eye level when I cleaned the screen earlier.
Anyone else find the wipers on these cars seem to only last a few months even when you buy decent makes? I've never known a car like it for streaks as soon as the wiper gets slightly old.
I've not found them to be shortlived although we don't get that much rain here compared to some places. On the other hand, we do get more than our share of ice and snow... I replaced the blade that was on the car when we picked it up as it was starting to streak a bit after two years (I don't know how old it was prior to our picking it up).
I replaced it with a Bosch Icon blade wiper in the spring that I've been happy with - it only seems to miss the outside bottom edge of the passenger side where the windshield curves the most and does a good job everywhere else in both directions while being noticeably quiet while sweeping and while reversing.
Of note is that Bosch makes A and B blades with A for the drivers side and B for the passenger side. Although they look identical, the B blades apparently perform better on passenger side as they're calibrated for that higher curve in the glass. I may switch to a B blade the next time it needs replacing just to see if it makes a difference.
I do my wiper blade maybe 1 or 2 times per year. Daily it year round, but it stays in the garage when its actively snowing or the roads are freshly salted. I've been using just the cheapie $10 blades and they work well enough, but they don't curve well enough so I can't get to either lower corner when it wipes.
Technically not today, but yesterday I had to re-apply my nearly 2 year old repair job from when I snapped the line while removing the bank 1 cam cover. 34,000 miles out of a 10 cent heat shrink tube versus buying that line and routing it under the supercharger? I'll take that all day long!
I do my wiper blade maybe 1 or 2 times per year. Daily it year round, but it stays in the garage when its actively snowing or the roads are freshly salted.
I replace mine about as often, but mine only does 2k miles or so per year as my dailies have two wheels so my XJR does see snow & ice when it's too bad for bikes. I just don't recall needing to swap blades all the time on my XJ40 that was used in a very similar way. It's hardly a major cost though, so no biggy.
I buy whatever is cheapest and replace every six months. With pollution, tree sap, pollen, and weather (hot and cold), I find they deteriorate quickly no matter how expensive (Land Rover OEM, years ago were great and an exception): a couple of bucks and ten minutes and works like brand new!
I had replaced the left bank O2 sensor about a month ago and have been running through the emissions systems reset profile every time I drive the car (not very often). Anyway, after 5 or six runs through the profile, the green "all systems ready" check mark finally popped up on my portable reader. All those runs probably totaled about a hundred miles with irate motorists shaking their fists as I sped up and slowed down during the various profiles. Lots of anxiety, a fair amount of danger, and wasted fuel to add to the repair itself..... Never, never erase stored codes as you risk all systems going to factory settings, whereupon the car has to relearn emissions ready status. (This assumes your car is registered in a mandated emissions test area like Dallas-Fort Worth).
I had a similar problem getting my 2000 VDP ready for CA emissions testing. I tried for a month all of the factory suggestions, internet tricks, mechanic cheats - all to no avail. I finally waited for a rainy day (we don't get them often) which permitted me to drive about 20 miles at a constant 30 MPH. That did it. If I ever have to do that again, I swear I'm going electric.
