What maintainence work would you do on an XJR?
I have seen a 2001 XJR with 51k on the clock.
What work would you do on this car to enhance it? Whether it's springs, reconditioning the supercharger etc.
What work would you do on this car to enhance it? Whether it's springs, reconditioning the supercharger etc.
Hard to say. Its a 21 year old car and they are all different based on how they were treated and what prior maintenance is done.
If you really want to go hog wild:
Biggie...check for tensioners
1. Valley coolant hoses
2. water pump
3. change supercharger oil and coupler
4. clean intercoolers internally
5. clean maf, replace air filter
6. replace fuel filter
7. review suspension to determine whether shock bushings or shock mounts need replacement
8. clean egr valve and throttle body
9. replace octopus cooling hoses
10. replace tired/brittle cooling hoses
11. replace thermostat
12. lubricate sunroof mechanism
If you really want to go hog wild:
Biggie...check for tensioners
1. Valley coolant hoses
2. water pump
3. change supercharger oil and coupler
4. clean intercoolers internally
5. clean maf, replace air filter
6. replace fuel filter
7. review suspension to determine whether shock bushings or shock mounts need replacement
8. clean egr valve and throttle body
9. replace octopus cooling hoses
10. replace tired/brittle cooling hoses
11. replace thermostat
12. lubricate sunroof mechanism
Hard to say. Its a 21 year old car and they are all different based on how they were treated and what prior maintenance is done.
If you really want to go hog wild:
Biggie...check for tensioners
1. Valley coolant hoses
2. water pump
3. change supercharger oil and coupler
4. clean intercoolers internally
5. clean maf, replace air filter
6. replace fuel filter
7. review suspension to determine whether shock bushings or shock mounts need replacement
8. clean egr valve and throttle body
9. replace octopus cooling hoses
10. replace tired/brittle cooling hoses
11. replace thermostat
12. lubricate sunroof mechanism
If you really want to go hog wild:
Biggie...check for tensioners
1. Valley coolant hoses
2. water pump
3. change supercharger oil and coupler
4. clean intercoolers internally
5. clean maf, replace air filter
6. replace fuel filter
7. review suspension to determine whether shock bushings or shock mounts need replacement
8. clean egr valve and throttle body
9. replace octopus cooling hoses
10. replace tired/brittle cooling hoses
11. replace thermostat
12. lubricate sunroof mechanism
If any drips or signs of weeping, drain and refill rear end. Don't think can really check level. Have to empty from top with suction pump. It's a pain, but there are threads on it. Mine at 100K was way low. It had no drips but signs of weeping around one axle seal.
yeah, rear diff fluid is a good one.
Really at this age it will likely need some suspension work, potentially motor mounts, may have a leaking trans electrical connector, etc.
Best to look it over and assess whats needed.
Really at this age it will likely need some suspension work, potentially motor mounts, may have a leaking trans electrical connector, etc.
Best to look it over and assess whats needed.
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If it’s a ‘new to you’ I’d first check the timing chain tensioners and guides are latest spec’.
The MLS gaskets from the 4.2L are a decent upgrade on the original version. If the head studs aren’t centre popped they can be re-torqued.
Fuel pumps!
ABS module solder job
Bag a spare security locking module, but it needs to be the same program code as your car’s V-CATS list…
bleed the brakes with new fluid, and maybe add some goodridge braided lines for an improvement.
These are the ones that catch you out on an otherwise bomb proof vehicle.
The MLS gaskets from the 4.2L are a decent upgrade on the original version. If the head studs aren’t centre popped they can be re-torqued.
Fuel pumps!
ABS module solder job
Bag a spare security locking module, but it needs to be the same program code as your car’s V-CATS list…
bleed the brakes with new fluid, and maybe add some goodridge braided lines for an improvement.
These are the ones that catch you out on an otherwise bomb proof vehicle.
I am certainly NOT saying that is a bad thing, yet where did you find the time?
Last edited by RandyS; Aug 12, 2022 at 03:00 PM.
Like Brandon, the tensioners, thermostat and water pump would be of first concern. As you get into it,
you will no doubt spot other areas of concern. You are not in a pit stop during a race, so take your time
and enjoy the secure feeling of a well tended Jaguar.
you will no doubt spot other areas of concern. You are not in a pit stop during a race, so take your time
and enjoy the secure feeling of a well tended Jaguar.
If you have not bought it - I would certainly consider it - finding low mileage on X308s is very difficult now. In my neck of the woods an average X308 with 165k+ mileage will sell for less than $5500 the same car with less than 80k miles will sell for over $9,000.
An old foreign car guy once told me 90% of all XJ8s in the junk yard are there for 2 reasons - blown motors (plastic tensioner or water pump) or blown tranny - and he said the biggest travesty was there were more tranny issues and the part that actually causes the failure is a $30 pressure valve/solenoid (the housing bore wears and lets too much pressure which eventually takes out a slightly undersized A drum/clutch).
At 51K I would pull the valve body and check the bore, if you catch it early enough they have upgrades that might get you another 100k plus mileage.
More cosmetic issues - every single X308 I have ever seen has a clear coat issue, a sagging headliner, broken third/upper brake light, broken sun visor clips, Broken cup holder, if a previous driver was tall or heavy the power seat brackets might be broken. the fabric inside the door pockets often disintegrates, also be careful pulling door panels off the molded plastic likes to crack and break especially the corners, door handle mechanisms and hood latches have plastic parts the break
An old foreign car guy once told me 90% of all XJ8s in the junk yard are there for 2 reasons - blown motors (plastic tensioner or water pump) or blown tranny - and he said the biggest travesty was there were more tranny issues and the part that actually causes the failure is a $30 pressure valve/solenoid (the housing bore wears and lets too much pressure which eventually takes out a slightly undersized A drum/clutch).
At 51K I would pull the valve body and check the bore, if you catch it early enough they have upgrades that might get you another 100k plus mileage.
More cosmetic issues - every single X308 I have ever seen has a clear coat issue, a sagging headliner, broken third/upper brake light, broken sun visor clips, Broken cup holder, if a previous driver was tall or heavy the power seat brackets might be broken. the fabric inside the door pockets often disintegrates, also be careful pulling door panels off the molded plastic likes to crack and break especially the corners, door handle mechanisms and hood latches have plastic parts the break
Good catch Brandon - I am going to blame it on new to me bifocals that can't tell the difference between an R and an 8 - but it's also possible I was being lazy and didn't read the full title
Anyways are the Mercedes trannies in the Rs any good ? I remember Mercedes had a lot of tranny issues in their own cars in the 90s and early 2000s ?
Anyways are the Mercedes trannies in the Rs any good ? I remember Mercedes had a lot of tranny issues in their own cars in the 90s and early 2000s ?
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