Ok, time to change the drivers side front wheel bearing. Read some post stating, I "NEED" the special too to remove the ABS ring, TRUE OR FALSE?

I read some used a 12 point sockets, but didn't state what size. The largest socket I have is a 38MM, the ABS ring looks much bigger than that.

I want the job to go as smooth as possible (fingers crossed), because I have alot of stuff to repair on the XJR next weekend. I want to add the wheel bearing if I can get by without the tool (cheapest $130.00).

The ball joints and wheel bearing pressing out and in, is not a problem, I have a 20 ton press to work with.

My list of next weekend repairs are as follows:

1. Upper ball joint on the driver side, (lower aready replaced)
2. Lower & upper on the passenger side.
3. Sway bar link on the passenger side, (driver side replaced)
4. Tie rods, Driver and Passenger
5. Replace the Flex pipes on the exhaust. (ran over a truck tire, dislocated)
6. Wheel alignment.
7. Rear upper strut bushing. (FINALLY)

Should I replace the bearing or replace a entire knuckle from a salvage yard. A U Pull It yard has the knucle for $35.00, so I am able to spin the wheel to hear if there any bearing noise. They have a total of 3 XJ on the lot, so I have three to choose from.

SGB.

 

I would like to see a response on this too.

 

Before I say anything I attached the procedure in a pdf file...

I work in a Jaguar repair shop in Coral Gables Miami and we charge about 3 hours in labor for this. We use a special tool. I know you are trying to save money and therefore looking to do this your self and I am assuming you are mechanic inclined because you have a press. We use a special tool from Jaguar. I get a lot of people come to my shop and need a new knuckle because some "backyard" mechanic try and did this. Then it ends up being more expensive. My advice is call and ask a Jaguar specialty shop or the dealer how much to change the bearing with the knuckle out, because you have to take the knuckle out anyways... that could save you money and get the car fixed the right way.

Best of lucks!!!!

Again, I'm not saying i cannot be done, I'm just saying that a lot of people screw this up and pay more instead of less...

 

anyone have a pic of the rear upper strut bearing

 

where is the rear upper strut bearing? How do I get to it?

 

sbreeden - daxter 1987 offers excellent advice if you can find a shop. I did mine myself by using a 2" craftsman 12 point socket (#47788) I ground down the bottom to allow the grooves in the socket to better grip the ABS ring. This is key. I used an impact gun because I did not have a big enough vise to keep the knuckle anchored to use a breaker bar. This did cause some chips to the raised dots on the ABS ring. I also had trouble getting the ring tight enough upon re-assembly because the socket can easily slip off the ring.

The 2nd challenge is getting the circlip out due to rust and corrosion over 11 years. You need a heavy duty circlip remover and patience. Pressing the bearing was the easiest part. While you have the knuckle off is a good time to due the balljoints and the tie-rod ends.
Good luck

 

Thank you.

 

See here...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e2/#post565312

 

Thank you.

 

Thank you.

 

Thought it might help,

changing the bearing on the original or hub assembly is up to you. You'll need specialist tools for either job, swapping the bearing needs the ABS ring tool, swapping the hub assembly will need a spring compressor.
It's a case of knowing the part your thinking of replacing is in fact good, just read about this same job in the thread previously posted about a good hub bearing in fact being bad.

Both jobs have been covered extensively here, so maybe use the search function...

Also, the X300 hub bearings I think are different, so posting in the correct forum may also get a response.

 

[QUOTE=

Thank you. By the way my Jag is a 1996 vanden plas.[/QUOTE]

Before more confusion is created, we better sort out exactly which model you do have ;o))
If as you say your car is a 1996 model then it will be an X300 as the first V8 X308 was not released untill 1997 in Europe or 1998 in the US
If it is an X300 (six cylinder) you won't need special tools for wheel bearing changes as this model was the last to use conventional adjustable wheel bearings which are replaceable insitu.
Only the X308 onwards uses the 'cassette' style sealed wheel bearing (there are two types) which will need a special socket to undo the ABS reluctor ring.
Of course you can butcher the old with an air chisel and replace with a new item which is not all that expensive.....the rest applies as has stated ;o))

BTW....you will make things much easier if you add your location and vehicle types to your profile ;o)

 

any pics of the rear strut bushings?

 

Thank you.

 

Orlando....you still have not made it clear if you drive an X300 six cyclinder or X308 V8?

If it is an X300, it is equopped with conventional wheel bearings which have the inner and outer cones that are adjustable.

This means you don;t even have to touch rhew steering upright....you just atke off the wheel hub and dismantle the bearing races by using a hammer and drift.

New bearings will come with a seal and use any good quality high melting point grease for wheel bearings.

Pack plenty of grease into the hub and reassemble, making sure you set the running clearence correctly by tightening up by hand plus 1/4 turn, then back off to the nearest hole for split pin to be insterted, replacing castleated cap and the bearing dust cap.

Now, if the car is a V8....it's a total different kettle of fish! ;o)=)