window frame adjustment procedure needed
Is there a specific procedure for adjusting the alignment of the rear door window
frame to be flush to the surrounding opening? Or is it a brute force thing?
Just noticed that the right rear frame is sitting proud of the aperture at the top
rear corner as if the window frame had been wedged to gain entry. Noticed it
brushing the snow off tonight by hand.
Coincidentally, there is a SUV that's been hanging around all day, and the
POS occupant claims to be a private investigator. Confirmed by reading
his plate number out to a police dispatcher.
frame to be flush to the surrounding opening? Or is it a brute force thing?
Just noticed that the right rear frame is sitting proud of the aperture at the top
rear corner as if the window frame had been wedged to gain entry. Noticed it
brushing the snow off tonight by hand.
Coincidentally, there is a SUV that's been hanging around all day, and the
POS occupant claims to be a private investigator. Confirmed by reading
his plate number out to a police dispatcher.
It is normally the knee at the waist line, and pull the frame towards yourself gently.
Do it in small stages, it is easy to do, but a bit harder to undo.
Probably best if not done in the freezing cold, as this can make the glass and paint brittle.
RE the PI... Just because your paranoid, does not mean they are not after you . lol
Do it in small stages, it is easy to do, but a bit harder to undo.
Probably best if not done in the freezing cold, as this can make the glass and paint brittle.
RE the PI... Just because your paranoid, does not mean they are not after you . lol
Thanks, knee in the waistline seems popular on other sites as well.
Didn't think about the temperature aspect before giving it a go.
No real improvement with limited force, so waiting for warmth is
probably a good idea. I'm thinking with the door card off and a look
to see if the window track needs to be loosened.
It's a two-handed job, but is it a one arm or two arm amount of
force?
As a warning to others, a potential rust spot is under the external rubber
glass seal at the rear vertical edge of the rear door window. The bottom
three inches on both sides is getting distinctly orange. Time to shoot some
rubber friendly rust protectant in there to slow the progress.
Didn't think about the temperature aspect before giving it a go.
No real improvement with limited force, so waiting for warmth is
probably a good idea. I'm thinking with the door card off and a look
to see if the window track needs to be loosened.
It's a two-handed job, but is it a one arm or two arm amount of
force?
As a warning to others, a potential rust spot is under the external rubber
glass seal at the rear vertical edge of the rear door window. The bottom
three inches on both sides is getting distinctly orange. Time to shoot some
rubber friendly rust protectant in there to slow the progress.
As to if its a 1 or 2 arm job, I suppose it is down to how big/ muscular your arms are !
You need a reasonable amount of force, after all these are well built cars, but not excessive force.
Give it a go and if nothing changes, use a little more force, but increase the force used in small changes.
Short sharp pulls tend to work better than a long smooth pull, but please remember you are only tweaking the frame back into shape, not trying to fold it in half.
You need a reasonable amount of force, after all these are well built cars, but not excessive force.
Give it a go and if nothing changes, use a little more force, but increase the force used in small changes.
Short sharp pulls tend to work better than a long smooth pull, but please remember you are only tweaking the frame back into shape, not trying to fold it in half.
Can't help with knowledge on frame alignment, but what kind of area are you hanging around if you have a PI tailing you? keep that number on file because you never know when you need it.
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