XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

X308 coughed and will not start

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Old Feb 12, 2019 | 04:28 PM
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Default X308 coughed and will not start

Hello! I'm pretty new here, with a 1998 XJ8L with 108K. I'm in Dallas, Texas, USA. I've only had this car a couple of years, 1st Jag I've ever owned. It's a second car, not a daily driver, and was a gift from my brother-in-law. I've had the transmission rebuilt, and replaced brakes, plastic thermostat tower (that was fun) and a left front wheel bearing. (also fun). The car has run like a top until about three weeks ago. When I started it up one day, it coughed once and then would not start, not even a sputter. The fuel pump runs, and the engine turns over smoothly on the starter with no mechanical noise. The issue appears to be electrical, but there are no trouble codes saved. I can hear the fuel pump, but have not run a pressure check yet. I did check to make sure the "immobiliser" was not engaged, and it appears OK. Given this set of circumstances, where would be the best place to begin? I don't want to mistakenly burn out a relay or circuit board by blundering in.
I put up a post in the new member forum a couple of weeks ago, not realizing it needed to be here in this forum. I've been traveling had haven't had time to work on the car. Other than an old Volvo, all my cars have been Chevys or Chryslers. Before I tear into this fine British auto once more, I thought I'd put this out there and see if any of you with experience (and you ALL have more then me!) can point me in the right direction. I've noticed that several of you have suggested on other repairs that they should begin with a glass of whiskey, which suits me just fine. My wife LOVES(!) this car so I'm in for the long haul.
All replies are greatly appreciated!
 
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Old Feb 13, 2019 | 10:03 AM
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It sounds to me as though you have bore wash, a known issue with the Nickasil liners. The easy option is to put the accelorator flat to the floor when you are crancking the engine, that cuts off the fuel supply and stops further flooding. If that doesn't work, then take the plugs out, put a teaspoon full of light oil into each cylinder, plugs back in and then try to start again. Watch out for the huge amounts of white smoke when it fires up...
 
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Old Feb 13, 2019 | 01:17 PM
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Thanks! I read about bore wash, but it didn’t register. So here’s what happened:
1st 10-second crank... no action. me: “bore wash, huh... Not really”
2nd 10-second crank... minor sputter. me: “What the hell is bore wash anyway?”
3rd 10-second crank... more sputters than before. STRONG gas fumes. me: “I’m glad I don’t smoke.”
4th 10-second crank...now slower... many sputters but no love. Still more fumes. me: “maybe I better push it out and put on the charger”
5th 10-second crank...slower yet...about to quit, then amid much sound and fury, a large cloud of blue smoke, and the old girl sprang to life and settled into a smooth idle about 800 rpm. Check engine light was on (code: 1663, not in my chart) I cleared it out and started her up again. No light, all good. Warmed her up and then restarted immediately without hesitation.
Jag and VERY happy wife just drove off. Yesterday was our anniversary so I got extra points. You too Nigel. Thanks a million for the tip. You were spot on.
Dale
 
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Old Feb 13, 2019 | 03:23 PM
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Glad you were able to get her started up. Enjoy, but remember that she hates not being run for several minutes when you first start her from cold. Ask me how I know?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2019 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by nigelmay
Glad you were able to get her started up. Enjoy, but remember that she hates not being run for several minutes when you first start her from cold. Ask me how I know?
I have to shuffle cars to get out what I want to drive and its when you run the engine just long enough to reshuffle the driveway that you get the bore wash. But even outside of Jaguars with nikasil plated cylinder walls, I'd always heard it was good practice to run cars up to operating temperature once you start the motor. If you shut them off still cold, then another bad thing that happens is that the moisture in the exhaust (by-product of combustion) condenses in the cold pipes, accumulates in the low points and causes premature corrosion. Seems like there is something else that's bad about shutting off a motor before it warms up that I'm forgetting. Anyway, I make it a standard practice to let my cars run up to temp every time. I will park one car outside and let it continue to idle while I move another car out, then put it back inside.

 
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Old Feb 17, 2019 | 06:47 PM
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Thanks Phil, yes normally I am pretty careful to let a car warm up fully, I know it's hard on them. I think this may be one of those times where I was in a hurry and needed something out of the attic, I had to move the car for access. I backed it out, stopped, then started it again and drove it back in...probably two 30 second runs back to back. Well, I won't be doing THAT again!
Thanks for your note.
Dale
 
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Old Feb 18, 2019 | 11:18 AM
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Check your fuel pressure. You can use a tire pressure gauge if that is all you have. Should be around 40psi. Also take a plug out and check for a spark if the fuel pressure OK. My bet is the fuel pressure regulator is capput (on the end of the fuel rail).
 
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Old Feb 18, 2019 | 03:53 PM
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Have you tried the accelerator to the floor procedure to clear a flooded engine? Either that or a teaspoon of oil down the spark plug holes to seal the cylinders (bore wash) ?
 
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