x308 Transmission Oil flush via Cooler pipes
I did mine a few years ago by first dropping the pan, changing the filter, then refilling the pan (about 6 qts). Then disconnected the return line from the radiator. Stuck a tube on it and ran it into a 5 gal bucket. Started the engine for a few minutes (until about 1 gal of old fluid was collected), shut it down, then filled a gallon or so of new fluid thru the fill hole. Did this until the color changed on the fluid coming out of the tube. Probably used about 13-14 qts of Mobil 1 ATF for the process and it's been doing fine ever since. The fill process is easier if you get a 5 gal bucket of new fluid and use a pump. The fill level should be checked with the transmission warm, so I just left the plug out and ran it until it got warm and the fluid quit running out.
Some transmission info for the ZF 5 HP24:
http://www.all-trans.by/assets/site/files/5HP24E.PDF
Complete repair manual
And some part numbers from the ZF webcat:
https://webcat.zf.com/?SPR=4
http://www.all-trans.by/assets/site/files/5HP24E.PDF
Complete repair manual
And some part numbers from the ZF webcat:
https://webcat.zf.com/?SPR=4
Last edited by Jurgen Dimmers; Nov 26, 2014 at 04:30 PM.
I plan on doing this in the warmer weather on my 2005 Jaguar XJR. I did it on my 2006 Dodge Dakota and with the help of my then girlfriend to stop and start the engine. I did it about a quart at a time until the fluid ran clean. I dont see why it cannot be done this way on the Jag.
When I check the dipstick on the Dodge now the fluid is nice and clean and does not look like it is mixed with old fluid and it was burnt looking before I did the change.
When I check the dipstick on the Dodge now the fluid is nice and clean and does not look like it is mixed with old fluid and it was burnt looking before I did the change.
All - I've been reading all of the posts on here that I can find about servicing the "sealed until death" transmission. I've got 85k on my 2003 VDP and I'm getting ready to do this. Here's what I've come up with on my procedure. Obviously I welcome any thoughts / feedback before I take the Big Cat down.
1) I've concluded that the Pentosin ATF-1 is the best "affordable" fluid to use. I got a 20 liter jug coming from fcpeuro.com for $226.99. Every website I looked at it popped up #1 as OEM replacement.
2) I'm going to attempt (haven't really looked hard yet) to pull the radiator. I did water pump / pseudo coolant flush in 2013, and for $60, my local radiator shop will power flush and pressure check the tanks. This will eliminate the ATF in the radiator
3) Drain and fill
4) Attach hose to cooler lines (before reconnecting them to radiator) and run as much old fluid out as I can. New fluid is supposed to be clear, so this should be pretty easy to tell when old is displaced by new. Any idea where the fluid comes from first? Hopefully the torque converter??? Or will it come straight from the sump and the new fluid?
5) Drain, drop pan, replace filter, fill
6) Reattach cooler lines - run - cycle gears, fill
7) Run - check temp with IR probe, cap when at 40 degrees C
This was a pretty quick and dirty write-up. Yes, I realize I need to reinstall the radiator and top off the coolant. Yes, I have read thoroughly the JTIS procedures for dropping the pan and replacing the filter / removing fill plug, etc... (spent about four hours researching last night).
My primary concern here is like everyone else's... replacing as much fluid as possible. That's why the 20 liters of fluid. Also, the local O'reilly's carries the Pentosin ATF-1
Also considering topping off with a bottle of Lucas AT conditioner... Any thoughts from you transmission mechanic types?
Thanks in advance!
Eric
1) I've concluded that the Pentosin ATF-1 is the best "affordable" fluid to use. I got a 20 liter jug coming from fcpeuro.com for $226.99. Every website I looked at it popped up #1 as OEM replacement.
2) I'm going to attempt (haven't really looked hard yet) to pull the radiator. I did water pump / pseudo coolant flush in 2013, and for $60, my local radiator shop will power flush and pressure check the tanks. This will eliminate the ATF in the radiator
3) Drain and fill
4) Attach hose to cooler lines (before reconnecting them to radiator) and run as much old fluid out as I can. New fluid is supposed to be clear, so this should be pretty easy to tell when old is displaced by new. Any idea where the fluid comes from first? Hopefully the torque converter??? Or will it come straight from the sump and the new fluid?
5) Drain, drop pan, replace filter, fill
6) Reattach cooler lines - run - cycle gears, fill
7) Run - check temp with IR probe, cap when at 40 degrees C
This was a pretty quick and dirty write-up. Yes, I realize I need to reinstall the radiator and top off the coolant. Yes, I have read thoroughly the JTIS procedures for dropping the pan and replacing the filter / removing fill plug, etc... (spent about four hours researching last night).
My primary concern here is like everyone else's... replacing as much fluid as possible. That's why the 20 liters of fluid. Also, the local O'reilly's carries the Pentosin ATF-1
Also considering topping off with a bottle of Lucas AT conditioner... Any thoughts from you transmission mechanic types?
Thanks in advance!
Eric
I cant find one either. Im guessing there isnt one or Im an utter dolt, though the latter wouldnt be shocking, lol. Has anyone ever had a problem with the shifter popping out of gear and having to hold it down to maintain engagement?
There is not a dipstick, but there is a kit to add one. You can probably find info using the search.
Popping out of gear is likely a cable adjustment problem. You will get more help if you open a new thread, or again by doing a search.
Popping out of gear is likely a cable adjustment problem. You will get more help if you open a new thread, or again by doing a search.
No existing problems or symptoms, but with 90k miles, decided to pursue flush of 722.6 trans...just in case! Glad I did. Used BG machine, with BG cleaner and full syn BG ATF that "meets or exceeds" the LT-71141 spec (among a full page of other ATF specs). Hook-up via Trans cooler lines. ALL old fluid pushed out (inclulding torque converter), cleaning soln in and recirculated. Cleaning soln pushed out, fresh BG ATF fluid in. Tech showed me condition of "old" fluid in sight glass (black). Entire operation took 2 hrs (including allowing my ATF to cool to/below 80 degF). A valuable and informative experience. Drive home (1 hr; Hilton Head to Beaufort, SC) uneventful. Firm, smooth shifts in both shift modes (Sport and Comfort). Happy to provide Jag dealership's phone and contact info, and answer any questions. EHT/Aiken-Beaufort, SC
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