Hi, Just changed the fuel pump and filter on my jag, checked fuel coming through to front of engine on shrader valve, appears ok. Went to start her up and its just turning over, i thought it may be possibly flooded so removed pump fuse and turned over to dry her out. Put fuse back in and began turning over again, and got this extremely noisy backfire with smoke through the air filter intake.

and my car has been standing well before Christmas

Any ideas please.

Found the plugs to be in a bit of a state, rather large gap, got new ones, hope this info is helpful and correct!

First time i have changed these, the ones in there are NGK BKR5EVXA-13, so I managed to get some of these off ebox new £25 for 8 New.
Couldn't find any GAP info on the forum for this plug, so I rang NGK in the UK, he said;

1. The NGK BKR5EVXA-13 has not been manufactured for 5 years now !

2. The gap on these plugs is set at 1.3mm, this is the -13 at the end of the plug description, and in his opinion the Gap set is for a new car !
so, he advised me to set it at 1.1mm, I told him my Jag has 74K on the clock. He said I had to be extremely careful not to damage the "precious metal" electrode as they are easily mullered.

3. I asked about new plugs, 1998-2000 the recommended plug was the NGK PFR5G-13E, still set at 1.3mm

4. Current plug recommendation is the NGK PFR5G-11E, these are set at 1.1mm as designated at the end of the description -11E

5. He also said its the same plug for 3.2 and 4.0 V8

6. He also recommends plug changes at 40K - 60K miles not 100K.

* hope the plug info is helpful

* Still need help on the non starting issue if its not the plugs though, so any ideas would be great !


thanks jagger98

 

Recommended plugs are NGK (5464) BKR5EIX-11 Iridium. I think the recommended gap is 42 thou (1.1mm), but Jaguar issued a service report recommending a 52 thou gap (1.3mm) for a smoother idle. Personally I run mine at 42 thou (1.1mm) and I have no complaints.

 

good to know other Plugs do the same job, presume they are ok for the 3.2!


Ok, plugs changed, gaps set to 1.1/1.5mm, cam cover gaskets changed, start up, still no joy

Put my Max Diag MD808 Pro OBD code reader
(someone was asking what types people use, not had any readings from the Jag previously)

on OBD setting the error code P1336 has come up, stating crank or camshaft sensor

Saw one post saying check harness and clean switch/switches or has it got anything to do with me fitting a new fuel pump, has my 3.2 got one sensor on cam or crank or more?

will search the posts for more info.




Found this hanging, from front of engine, on the left hand side in front of cam cover!

can’t seem to find anywhere it’s supposed to fit on?

 

Backfiring through the intake system is usually caused by bad timing. Have the secondary tensioners been changed?

 

I think the Picture is just a spare connector, there's one on the other side too.

 

hi, thanks for replying, don’t know, haven’t had car for long, it was running fine until the pump packed up, so I’ve changed the pump.

I could have a look through the invoices, do have a few.

would the code reader show bad timing ?

 

Probably a miss on four cylinders

 

busted crank sensor

when it comes back to life it reads wrong and causes a backfire

 

Before you go any further, you need to remove the cam covers and check if the secondary timing chain tensioners have been done as Jhartz suggested.

 

Thanks for the feedback..

Ok, I've taken the Left Hand Bank (if your sitting in the car) cam cover off, it looks like its a 1st generation Tensioner, it appears ok, but I have ordered two new ones just in case!






I can check the RH, but I think its in the same condition, I did briefly look at it when I changed the plugs and put a new cam gasket in.

The car belonged to my dad, he had it from 2003, he had only done 40K in the 16 years he had owned it, that's 2,500 miles a year average and he had it serviced regularly.

I think its worth changing the Crank Shaft Sensor now as Xalty suggested.

 

If you ordered the new secondary timing chain tensioners, did you order the new shorter bolts that go with them? If not, order them as well. Don’t stack shims under the old bolts. The new aluminum secondary tensioners have a shorter body that requires 2 shorter bolts for each bank. There are tons of threads about replacing the tensioners. Most people search up the zip tie method though. I would hold off replacing the crankshaft position sensor until the secondary tensioners have been replaced first.

 

Hi, thanks for the nudge, I have just checked, it did say kit, but I've ordered spare bolts from somewhere else, just in case.

thanks

 

Been down this road before, when pulled up in the drive way and then no start ( faulty fule pump)
changed it and no start
replaced the plugs as carnival said perfect iridium
pulled the plugs at night set them up a perfect spark, changed coils still, no go sounded like trying to start but just would not kick ove
check timing belts replaced tensioners
ended up setting the timing at the flywheel and checking everything even fuel pressure when ign on and while cranking no prob
so frustrated ended up deciding to use quick start fluid
when I removed the air intake off the carby and manually rotated the butterfly
realised it was stuck causing flooding and backfire
so cleaned the crustation that had built up
as I had inserted oil into the bore as thought it was a compression issue
well it fired straight up smoked was the best sight I have seen
the throttle went up then down is it reset
and has not missed a start yet
something so simple a stuck butterfly
unbelievable
check it out regards Dutchy

 

Thanks Dutchy, will check it out!

 

Hi Dutchy, checked the Butterfly Flap and its ok, cleaned it out, its not sticking.

I do have a quick question to every body, I want to rotate the engine by hand using the crankshaft, looking at front is it "Clockwise", so I can check the new tensioners and camshafts are ok.

thank you

 

You’re correct, clockwise rotation looking at it from the front.

 

Thank you Addicted2boost. appreciate you reply.

jagger98

 

Ok where are we !

Well, my Jag is still not going, cranks over but does not start, I have pushed it to the point where I got a massive back fire and it destroyed the Air tube to the Air Filter box and the air filter box too, so timing needs checking, now got a replacement. I have changed the top Tensioners on both sides, the Crank Sensor(used from reputable source!) and Cam Sensor(new old stock), all from ebat, new pump is working, checked some relays - will be checking others.

I need to go back to some basics, can someone please tell me or link me to a post for Valve Timing on my XJ8 3.2. If I can, I want to do a Strobe test, I presume this can still be done on this motor. I have a 4.0l valve timing document which states 5 degrees after TOP DEAD CENTRE, is that the same as my 3.2.

This will tell me

1. I have a spark
2. The timing is about right

My OBD tester only brings up the code P1336, for Cam Sensor and Crank sensor - both changed.

The Jag Manual says:

Engine CRANKS but does not FIRE :
(Engine Ignition)
# Security System Immobiliser Engaged
# Harness
# Fuel System
# ECM fault
&
(Fuel Charging & Electronic Engine Controls)
# Throttle Contaminated
# Fuel Pump Relay - checked appears ok
# Refer to service Article S491

Engine DETONATES / KNOCKS had this once or twice at the start of the process

# Fuel Lines
# Fuel Pressure REGULATOR
# Air Leakage
# Mass Air flow Sensor - replacement came with used pipe and filter box
# Oxygen Sensors
# Fuel Pump changed - can hear running and relay working, did a finger test at shrader valve, but maybe I need to pressure test properly !

Beginning to think my ECM is up the swany!

#On the Fuel Pressure Regulator, is there any tests I can do ?

All help welcome, thank you.

 

[QUOTE=Jagger98;2395515]

I need to go back to some basics, can someone please tell me or link me to a post for Valve Timing on my XJ8 3.2. If I can, I want to do a Strobe test, I presume this can still be done on this motor. I have a 4.0l valve timing document which states 5 degrees after TOP DEAD CENTRE, is that the same as my 3.2.

This will tell me

1. I have a spark
2. The timing is about right
/QUOTE]

I just read this post and I think you are out of time.
DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE UNTIL IT IS PROPERLY TIMED.!!!
My guess is with the old tensioners you jumped a tooth on the timing. This caused the backfiring through the intake. When you changed the tensioners I don't know how you timed the engine. The only way that would work is with the proper timing kit and locking down the cams. The zip tie method would not work because it was already out of time.
YOU CANNOT TIME THESE ENGINES WITH A TIMING LIGHT OR SETTING THE ENGINE TO TOP DEAD CENTER.

The timing kit locks the flexplate, through the crank position sensor hole, at 40° ATDC. At this position the flats on the cams will align and the cam locking tool will place the cams in this position.

If the timing is off more than one tooth the pistons will be hitting the valves and will destroy the engine.
This is my opinion and may not be the problem but time the engine correctly before proceeding .

 

Ok, I have been cranking the engine some time now, since I put in the new Top Tensioners, I have probably turned the engine over 6 - 10 times, so if there is any damage its probably been done.

But there are no, or have been no nasty noises from the Engine, sounds smooth, just wont start.

But, if its shifted one tooth could it still turn over OK ??

SO, I need the correct settings for the Timeing, is there a drawing in any of the manuals and a picture of the tools and where they are being used.

thank you.

Heres a Kit, does this look OK ?

JAGUAR / LAND ROVER 3.2, 3.5, 4.0, 4.2 & 4.4 V8 Engines Timing Tool Set