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So here is the latest fuel using the liquid gauge https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WKR...ew?usp=sharing
and later I will post spark This is the sensor plug looks great This is the sensor that has been removed
lots of oil & grease this engine needs to come out one day but let's get it going first
is that a suppressor I see down here OMG ?
That connector does not look like it is for the crank sensor. The crank sensor has a 2-pin connector on my 1999 car. Or, if it is the early type of crank sensor, it may have 3-pin connector (I have not seen one of these).
Last edited by M. Stojanovic; May 1, 2019 at 06:29 AM.
Unfortunately, I don't have anything concrete in the way of a suggestion to add to the discussion, but I just wanted to say that I admire your persistence. I'm sure that you will crack it in the end.
Me too i'm almost out of ideas, it does have an air, fuel, spark and compression , you have checked quite a lot of stuff (if not all) but it is just hell bent on no start, at this point i would consult the clairvoyant, throw the tarot or towel (temporarily of course) .
Maybe kids did the prank and stuck rubbish in your exhaust pipe? We did that stuff as a kids to council motored barrow and yes he struggled to start the thing. (boys will be boys) maybe some wild animal (python?) housed himself inside and obstructed the exhaust.
...
If you remove relay and crank it does it start for a second? you could have someone to plug relay back just in that moment and hope it will continue running
You could try to measure coolant temperature sensor at the ECU it could be shorted somewhere or have bad plug/socket
Thanks for the support all
I haven't ventured down to start playing with the ECU yet!
I'm a loner with 2 hands available only misses don't want ta know anymore
it will start I am sure and all this work now will be for the benefit of other members I am sure.
No pythons where I live Jack your good for keeping up my spirits
After I check the passenger spark
I think to put it all back together
now what to do for a start
1 WOT
or 2 No MAF
I would be interested to know what highorse and M.S has to say also.
Regards Dutchy
After I check the passenger spark I think to put it all back together...now what to do for a start.
The sparks look much better now indeed. When you assemble everything, first try just starting the engine normally (with accelerator at idle position). If it doesn't start after a few tries, then you can try with WOT.
the cut off switch as I understand it would mean no fuel and some electricals are disconnected
the pressure does go to 44psi as required
so we have good spark good fuel and air all I need is a but of luck today and hey presto we will all cheer at the revival of the 3.2
the cut off switch as I understand it would mean no fuel and some electricals are disconnected
the pressure does go to 44psi as required
so we have good spark good fuel and air all I need is a but of luck today and hey presto we will all cheer at the revival of the 3.2
You are correct, Dutchy.
When tripped, the inertia switch interrupts power to the fuel pump to reduce the possibility of fire or explosion. So if the switch was tripped you would have zero fuel pressure. I believe the inertia switch also causes all of the doors to unlock.
Ok Guys it has a cable see photos and a vacuum piece on top I thought the electrical servo was something to do with cruise control but I'm out of my league here
so what I know is that the butterfly does not open WOT ing pos II or any pos for that matter, which makes me wonder how is a WOT going to make a difference to air flow on start? or is a vacuum created on startup and the servo quickly responds
which brings me to the next question
if I connect the MAF and leave the air supply off the carby should I see some movement when I get the courage to crank again?
one last thing I could push it open a week ago but now it seems stuck does it open towards the firewall?
Dutchy no movement on cranking see the cable?
The black cylinder is the cruise control. The butterfly and the throttle body looks horribly dirty, maybe that is contributing to the problem. If it's not moving at all on the accelorator pedal, I think you have now found the problem. Can you move it manually or is it completely stuck?
Thanks for the input will do what I can with the TB
I know that 2 to 3 weeks ago I did manually push open the butterfly and tried the aero start spray down the body.
and also Xjack asked for the readings open and closing the accelerator all was well then I give it a little tap to see if its stuck because no air no go!
Dutchy
Just a thought here, because it's happened to me today, is your cat blocked and have you also tried a secondhand (far cheaper) set of coil packs in place of the ones you've got? If you've got a borescope you can see into the cylinders or even the cat via the o2 sensor if you remove it.
It's just that I've had a very similar scenario today. Four of my coil packs died on me because I looked at them quite hard (they seem to be quite fragile) plus I was pretty sure the cat was blocked as I had been decarbonising the engine previously.
I find working on these cars seems to bring up a whole host of non related problems at times.
Ps, you can spray an acetone based intake cleaner once you've got the engine turning over even really roughly, to clean the cat.
Just a few ideas, just in case.
Dutchy
I suppose that the day i asked you for TP reading and it responded to pedal press it was still in working order, so maybe the spray you used dialoged some crud and stuck the butterfly?
Does the input shaft rotate at pedal pressure? if no than it is binding somewhere before if it does move but butterfly not, than you could try few drops of lubricating oil on butterfly shaft
I'm with Chris on that, on the car of such age and mileage this often ends up being set of smaller failures which sums up to big problem
