So I just replaced the bad transmission in my car. New one is in, fluid is full everything ready to go.

andddd... Nothing. this is all with the car still up on the jack stands.

Any thoughts on what to check? I am at a standstill. I looked under, torque converter is spinning, gear selector is moving properly but nothing happens.

trac not available
asc not available
restricted performance

The revs change like it normally would when switching from P R D.

any help will be appreciated thanks.

 

My sons Firebird would do "nothing" on jack stands after we changed out the valve body, flipped me out and into a panic. Put it on the ground and it worked fine. Several other F body guys experienced the same thing. Not saying it'll work on the ground but my sons F'bird had me scratching my head. Worked fine for 3 years up till we sold it. I lifted it up some time later from the rear and it did the same thing, weird. Come to think of it I think my TR6 did the same thing, might have something to do with the suspension hanging and the half shaft splines.

 

I got so excited ran outside to try it. Been doing this for last 3 days trying to figure it out and still nothing. Thanks for the reply though.

 

Are you sure the oil is at the proper level and use the proper procedure. Check it with transmission warm and with engine running.

 

Yeah, it's all done according to the book. Could it be something in the computer that needs to be reset? It was in "limp" mode prior to the swap.

 

Do a hard reset.

 

Just tried the hard reset, nothing still. I really have no idea what to check next.

 

Do you have any codes and what was the reason or symptoms that made you replace the transmission.

 

i actually just bought the car, with the old transmission reverse would work fine. But in drive it would take a while and eventually go into gear. When I would give it some gas it felt like it was slipping and couldn't get any acceleration. From what I read those were the signs of bad transmission. Most likely the a drum.

Got this transmission out of one that was tboned. Swapped everything. Now I have nothing, as if the transmission wasn't even there.

 

As far as codes, not sure. Will be borrowing my buddy's to check what codes I come up with.

 

Just curious what the outcome was.

 

At this point it's sitting there. Have not done anything.

 

I would remove the top gearbox cooler line from the engine cooling radiator to see if ATF flows. Start and shut down so as not to lose too much fluid if it flows.

If NO FLUID, then run the engine longer. If STILL no fluid then you have you answer about the pump or pump drive dogs on the Torque Converter.

bob

 

i Will try this on Thursday.

 

We just did a trans replacement on a 2000 XJ8 and found out the torque converter didn't seat properly into the front pump. It broke off the two tangs in the front pump impeller and caused the pump to fail (no pressure). The torque converter clicks into the input shaft splines but the notches in the pump must align with the notches in the pump impeller. Learned the hard way on that one...

 

There seem to be an epidemic of the pump being damaged from improper installation of the torque converter. JagMarc, larney, possibly bruno, and RJ last year.

Motorcarman suggest in a recent post, and I happen to do it the same, is that when the transmission is origionally removed is to measure how far the torque converter is recessed in the bellhousing. This way when you reinstall the torque converter you know where it needs to be. Also when you first get the transmission out stand it up on its end. I have a mid size garbage can that I put it in to keep is stable while I work on it. The clutches are alot easier to line up when its on its end. The torque converter is easier to get seated properly this way.
When I install the transmission I try to square the bellhousing to the engine as close as possible. Make sure the center of the torque converter is lined up with the center of the flexplate. As I mate the transmission and the engine I keep checking the torque converter that it's not in a bind and it should be able to spin. If it's in a bind that pressure will be put on the pump.

 

I have done this as well but didn't sustaine any damage from it. I have R&R'd so many transmissions between the X308 and X100/3 cars primarily for the rear main and oil galley plug above it that I was bound to make a mistake. The easiest way to tell when the TC is all the way in and the transmission is bolted in place...there should be somewhere around 2-3mm air gap between the flexplate and TC. If you don't have that air gap, then pull the transmission back out and reseat the TC.