Hi Guys , Having a bit of a no spark problem , I would like to find the location of the ignition control module . in the manual I have its tells me its in the servo compartment ,but alas nothing. ............. there are no codes , there is voltage at the ignition coil relay , hoping its not the ecu.
thanks, Phil

 

I am pretty sure that your car has an AJ27 engine, and as such, has no "Ignition control module". The ignition amps are integral to the coils.

The ecu (located n the right side box near the hood latch at the firewall) drives the amps.

 

Thanks , guess ill try a differant ecu . Phil.

 

Better yet: describe what is happening. Is it cranking (turning over on the starter). If not, what lights are showing on the dash (a key problem). Is it getting gas? Maybe an immobilizer reset would work.

 

Hi , Please tell me more about an immobilizer reset. I have a spare key and tried it, has fuel pressure , turning over , just no spark .Showing track not available , abs . checked and cleaned speed sensors. Thanks , Phil.

 

Change the battery. The problems showing are all symbols of a bad battery. You have enough votage to crank but not enough that the ECM will give fuel.

 

I would suggest testing the hot lead to the coils. have a look at the diagrams, or check back if you need help IDing the power supply lead. 12 v power is applied to each coil and is switched through the amp to ground. You may have a fuse or relay problem. Few, if any, ECU problems with your symptoms are reported.

 

Hi, Yes you are right about that , had that problem before , but this is different , thanks again , Phil

 

Hi Ross , Not getting any voltage to the coils with ignition on , nor to the maf sensor .What do you mean when you say through the amp? Voltage at the coil relay.All fuses good. Thanks , Phil

 

Phil:
There is an amplifier inside the coil. The power to the coils is the Red with white stripe (at least according to the diagram for a MY02). It is fed from the ignition relay (em26) in the ecu compartment. So are you saying the coil relay is not pulling in? I am not sure, but I suspect the inertia crash switch turns off the ignition relay.

So... what happened just before you lost spark?

 

The inertia crash switch (I mistakenly called it the immobilizer - the immobilzer is really part of the key/ignition switch) is under the panel in the passenger foot well along the bulkhead; you will need to pull the panel away, and press the switch on top.

 

Hi Guys ,Had to leave it alone yesterday givng me a headache
The main problem is I live 120 miles from the nearest Jag dealer and I hate to trailer my cats.
The trouble started as I was pulling out of my garage. I stopped to
answer a text for maybe 2 minutes , and it cut out. A message came
up "engine stalled" . I've thought about flooding , but thats not it.
So far I've bought crank position sensor, maf sensor and temperature
sensor. Still no spark , voltage at relay , none at coil. Today im gping to clean every
connector i can find . Bought a ecu from ebay uk payed $175 inc. shipping
i know you are surpossed to get them flashed, but maybe ill get a spark.
Found the ineracia switch and it was in the down position.
Thanks, Phil.

 

We have been working with partial information. That 'running for maybe 2 minutes' puts bore wash on the list of possible non start, and right at the top of that list. Do a search for fixes.

 

Bore wash , I understand your thinking , but it has been a very
well maintained kat , oil change ever 4k , spark plug changed
about 2k ago . doesnt burn oil . checked plugs all good
no voltage at coil , voltage at relay. Thanks Phil.

 

If the battery is still up, put the accelerator to the floor, hold it, crank it in ten second increments. Should solve any bore wash issues. Reread Ross' comments on fuse or relay issues. Clean the relays that manage ignition.

 

Oops , sorry guys, was measuring coil voltage to earth.
From red wire with white stripe ,to yellow wire with green
Stripe its reading 4volts.

 

Jim , That was one of the things I tried early on , thinking
it may have flooded, swaped relay with horn relay which I know works
Showing 12volt on opposite terminals on relay.Thanks.Phil.

 

Slow down and check on bore wash more carefully. Not flooding. It relates to rich fuel mix washing oil from rings resulting in low compression when a cold engine shuts down.

It's sometimes necessary to remove the plugs from one bank, adding 1 tsp. oil to the cylinders.

 

Will run a compression test tomorrow and swap plugs.
I'm still thinking ecu. but will try everything. Borewash
won't make for no fire on the plugs . thanks,Phil.

 

Unless you are giving wrong info about the ignition relay, you are wasting your time looking for bore wash, plugs compression or whatever. The supply from the ignition relay to the coils on the red/ white wire should be 12 volts to ground. The ground lead is the black wire, but the chassis should be the same. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THAT, THE ENGINE WILL NOT RUN. And, again, what do you mean voltage at relay but not coil? A conductor (wire) runs from the relay to the coil, so what you say makes no sense unless the wire is broken.
Unless your info is bad, I cannot understand the attraction of working on other stuff when you have defined an ignition problem!