xjr P0174
#2
P0174 indicates a lean condition on bank 2. Not a bad O2 sensor, there are separate codes for those. The ECM reads the amount of incoming air from the MAF, calculates how long the injectors should fire to achieve the correct air/fuel mixture and then reads the upstream O2 sensor to see if that mixture burned fully or if there is excess oxygen. Lean conditions mostly occur from unmetered air, sticking injectors or misfires.
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Don B (03-24-2017)
#3
P0174 indicates a lean condition on bank 2. Not a bad O2 sensor, there are separate codes for those. The ECM reads the amount of incoming air from the MAF, calculates how long the injectors should fire to achieve the correct air/fuel mixture and then reads the upstream O2 sensor to see if that mixture burned fully or if there is excess oxygen. Lean conditions mostly occur from unmetered air, sticking injectors or misfires.
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Don B (03-24-2017)
#4
I had a cracked intake tube.fixed that.cleaned maf with maf cleaner.cleaned the k&n filter.checked all vacuum lines and none seem to be leaking.car seems to run fin.no other codes.what else can I check
#5
I would start by looking at the long term fuel trims (LTFT) for both banks, at idle and at 2500 rpm, also note the short term trims (STFT) to see how they're trying to correct the condition. They don't change very fast and might still be high from the leak, leaving the error, and can be reset by a hard reset. I would have expected a P0171 along with the P0174 from a crack in the intake tube since that would affect both banks. Spraying MAF cleaner or brake cleaner around potential leak areas can cause STFTs to spike and you may even hear the engine rev higher if you hit a leaking area.
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Don B (03-25-2017)
#6
You mentioned fixing the intake tube. Did you replace the air intake tube or just repair it? The reason I ask is because I've ran across several 'recently repaired' air intake tubes experiencing the same code(s) and drivability issues and customers wonder why it's still driving badly. Replacement is the only way.
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Don B (03-25-2017)
#7
I got a new complete oem plastic intake tube.I also just replaced all plugs with autolite and changed all coils with a spare set I had.the P0174 is coming up still pending on my code reader.after it comes up ill get the ff data and post it and maybe someone can tell if its a injector or something else.also touched just after both converters and both felt the same so I dont think either are clogged.if it was a vacuum leak wouldn't it read lean on both banks?
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#8
#9
Before going any further with this issue...
key on engine off, clear the pending code followed immediately by a hard reset to zero out the fuel trims. Drive the car like as if the issue wasn't there. If the check engine comes on again, we'll deal with it if/when it comes back.
key on engine off, clear the pending code followed immediately by a hard reset to zero out the fuel trims. Drive the car like as if the issue wasn't there. If the check engine comes on again, we'll deal with it if/when it comes back.
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Don B (03-31-2017)
#13
#15
#16
I'm sorry, I'm confused. Your P0174 is lean in bank two, yet your results show lean in Bank One. I was not paying careful attention to your notes: something is *** backwards here.
Can you provide the long and short term trims at idle?
If your figures are right at 1300 rpm, I would want to check that you have the new air tube correctly installed; clean the MAF; clean the throttle plate and bore (might as well, you have the tube off); make sure the seal on the bank one (right side) cam cover is air tight. Use of throttle cleaner around all possible vacuum or air leaks will show a quick change in idle where the leak is (messy, tho).
I have found over the years that dirty injectors cause all sorts of issues with lean and rich running: a can of BG44, GUMOUT's SeaFoam equivalent, or SeaFoam may be all you need. On my 08 RRS/SC, it always cleared it up for four or five months. Some folks hate to use the cleaners, but they're useful once in a while.
Can you provide the long and short term trims at idle?
If your figures are right at 1300 rpm, I would want to check that you have the new air tube correctly installed; clean the MAF; clean the throttle plate and bore (might as well, you have the tube off); make sure the seal on the bank one (right side) cam cover is air tight. Use of throttle cleaner around all possible vacuum or air leaks will show a quick change in idle where the leak is (messy, tho).
I have found over the years that dirty injectors cause all sorts of issues with lean and rich running: a can of BG44, GUMOUT's SeaFoam equivalent, or SeaFoam may be all you need. On my 08 RRS/SC, it always cleared it up for four or five months. Some folks hate to use the cleaners, but they're useful once in a while.
Last edited by Jhartz; 03-31-2017 at 10:46 AM.
#17
ive put one whole can of seafoam in the gas tank at 3/4 tank full.cleaned the maf with crc maf cleaner and also cleaned the throttle body with crc tb and intake cleaner.I looked at the o2 wiring and looks untouched so I dont think its switched.
I aslo put some seafoam through the vacuum lines.
I aslo put some seafoam through the vacuum lines.
#18
I know it was mentioned before but, have you sprayed brake cleaner or another combustible around potential air leak areas? I know that there's updated parts ($$$) for the round seals on top between the SC lid and the intercooler because they had some issues. Also try to spray around some slightly exposed lower intake manifold area. If you spray around that round SC seal and can't get the STFT to spike rich, then you will probably just have to take the SC, intercoolers and lower intake manifold off and reseal everything. That would also be a good time to replace the coolant hoses and plastic 3 way T for preventative maintenance while your there.
#19
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krakead
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