XJ40 ( XJ81 ) 1986 - 1994

1990 - Rear Wheel Hub Assembly Interchange

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  #1  
Old 05-09-2018, 06:45 AM
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Default 1990 - Rear Wheel Hub Assembly Interchange

I am going to visit my favorite JY to look for rear hub assemblies for my 1990 XJ40. The lugs keep stripping at 75 ft/lbs. I have already replaced 4 lugs on one wheel and upon tightening the 5th (old) one spun.
My plan is to get a used set of hubs and replace all of the studs at a machine shop using the splined type lugs as used in the front hubs. My machine shop says they can do it.
Does anyone know what year model hubs are a direct fit on the 1990?
If available at the JY, I would want to pull the Hub and Hub carrier assembly as a complete unit.
Thank you.
 
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Old 05-10-2018, 05:13 AM
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Anyone?
 
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Old 05-10-2018, 06:08 AM
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I believe any from ‘88 through to ‘92-3 should be ok.
Why use a shop to replace the studs? When I had to replace a stud with the splines I simple used the wheel nut and a spacer to pull the stud into the wheel hub flange. A rattle gun helps but still doable with a breaker bar.
 
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Old 05-10-2018, 07:01 AM
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@Robman25: I am talking about the rear hub. As you may be aware the rear lugs are threaded in and peened from the back side. I want to replace the screwed in lugs for the splined type on the rear. Did you use your method on the rear hub?
I have used your method to replace the front lugs, but the rear??
 
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Old 05-10-2018, 10:26 AM
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I don't know if this would be practical, but if the problem is that the lugs are stripped and rotating in the hub but the lug-thread-to-wheel-nut is OK, what about introducing a small "keyway" between the lug and the hub? Drilling beside/partially into the lug and inserting a steel pin dipped in JB weld?


Just a crazy idea but one I would try!!


all the best


Larry
 
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  #6  
Old 05-10-2018, 01:41 PM
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I always just removed the old stud and screwed in the new one.
I used a 'stick-welder' or 'wire-feed' welder to tack the stud in place on the back side.

All this was done in-situ with the car suspended on a lift. It is a little tight between the aluminum hub but it is doable.

bob
 
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Old 05-10-2018, 01:54 PM
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Just to be clear. I installed 4 new lugs ( that's the number I had in hand) and had all 5 lugs spot welded on the back side. The 5th (old) lug did not strip out in the hub. The old lug nut itself would not tighten. I replaced the old lug nut with a new lug nut one from Welshent and the same thing is happening. The lug threads on the wheel side is stripped.
Now the new lug nut would not unscrew. It just spins on the lug.
On another note, I received faulty axle nuts. they would not thread on to the axle.
On the first (threading with a ratchet) one the the helicoil jammed on the axle and the nut unthreaded from the helicoil. On removal the helicoil unwound itself. On the second, the nut just unthreaded itself from the helicoil. The helicoil will not thread back into the nut. Welshent will replace nuts.
 
Attached Thumbnails 1990 - Rear Wheel Hub Assembly Interchange-axle-nut-001.jpg  

Last edited by sanchez; 05-10-2018 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 05-11-2018, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by sanchez
On another note, I received faulty axle nuts. they would not thread on to the axle.
On the first (threading with a ratchet) one the the helicoil jammed on the axle and the nut unthreaded from the helicoil. On removal the helicoil unwound itself. On the second, the nut just unthreaded itself from the helicoil. The helicoil will not thread back into the nut. Welshent will replace nuts.
If you haven't already, try thoroughly cleaning the threads on the axles to reduce the possibility of the helicoil inserts getting caught and backing out of the nuts.

Cheers,

Don
 
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Old 05-11-2018, 02:45 PM
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Awaiting new axle nuts. I did clean the threads with a wire brush prior to the attempt to install the new ones. With that lesson learnt, I will be careful with the installation when the new ones arrive.
BTW: In the interim, I installed the old axle nuts with red loctite and torqued them to 200 ft/lbs. This was done so I could test drive the car.
Is this good? I was told that this is a no no.
 
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Old 05-11-2018, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sanchez
In the interim, I installed the old axle nuts with red loctite and torqued them to 200 ft/lbs. This was done so I could test drive the car.
Is this good? I was told that this is a no no.
You should be fine for the interim, but I would replace the nuts when the new ones come.

Cheers,

Don
 
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Old 05-11-2018, 05:51 PM
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@ Don B: Thanks always for your timely responses.
 
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Old 05-18-2018, 07:23 AM
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'88 and '89 3.6 have different hubs to match the brake calipers. '90-'94 4.0 are the same.
 
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2018, 02:45 PM
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Given Robert Laughton's post I will have to check the ones I got from everydayxj to make sure I received the correct ones.
@ Robert: Is there any visible difference or do I have to dismantle my car and do some measurement to confirm whether the ones I got are 88-89 or 90-94?
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 08:05 PM
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The mounting "ears" for the calipers are different between them. You could take a picture or measure them and compare.
Good luck,

Rob
 
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Old 05-22-2018, 06:17 AM
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@ Robert: The brake caliper bracket is mounted to the hub carrier. I am not replacing the carrier.
I am only replacing the the Hub, which is the part that has the lugs so I guess I am OK. If the hub is different, that's another story.
See pic.
 
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2018, 12:25 PM
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I think Jaguar generally refers to that as the 'wheel-flange'.


bob
 
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  #17  
Old 05-22-2018, 06:30 PM
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@motorcarman: I stand corrected. I am only replacing the "wheel-flange".
 
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Old 05-22-2018, 09:01 PM
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Jaguar does call the wheel flange the HUB (CAC6400) and the aluminum housing the HUB CARRIER.


Later JEPC versions call it the 'WHEEL HUB'.


Maybe WHEEL HUB FLANGE might cover all the bases???????


bob
 
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