So I traded an old Ford BroncoII for this remarkably beautiful 1993 XJ6, the Anti-Lock light was lit as well as the Bulb Out indicator (no fog light sockets?)
The car runs and rides well and then I went to apply brakes, the pedal kicked back at me and I barely got it stopped before crunching into another car.

I have been perusing this forum for a week and a half, and I take my hat off to all of you!

I was able to determine that the brake accumulator was bad and found a used one for $50. I now have brakes, thank goodness, but ABS light still on.

I hit the forums and Google again and decided to clean all the wheel speed sensors, ABS light still on, back to searching.

I located 4-pin test connector on ABS module in trunk and retrieved the following codes:

21
31
34
58
61

I found a neat site that could translate at Auto Repair Manual for Car Codes Free Online and got definitions of:

21 - This Relates to Main valve
31 - This Relates to LH front sensor open/short to earth
34 - This Relates to LH rear sensor open/short to earth
58 - This Relates to LH rear sensor, missing signal (long term)
61 - This Relates to Reservoir & pressure warning switch

Now I assume that the rear driver side sensor is totally shot, maybe the front can be saved with some wiring repair (hoping) but the first and last codes have me concerned.

My question for all you awesome Jag people out there is where do I start? And do you have any similar experience and/or advice for me?

Many thanks in advance!

Brian

 

Brian, I had a 94 that had that annoying ABS light on all the time as well. I replaced the entire booster/master cylinder unit with a known good one as I had the code 21 as well. Didn't change the fault. I have the original one from the car if you are interested in swapping it out. That system, in my own opinion, is junk. Overly complicated hydroboost with ABS. Nonsense if you ask me.
One of my former coworkers (old Jaghead) mentioned something about the shuttle valves would stick and cause a fault code possibly from old DIRTY brake fluid clogging them. I personally haven't taken one apart so I can't say for sure what is involved. I am glad to hear you have the service brakes back to normal. That is a very scary feeling, I know! Keep on the forum, sometimes things slow down as people get busy but don't give up. We do our best to help each other out.

 

Thank you Mark, I am planning to flush the whole system this weekend as the fluid is a nice golden color, and when I swapped the accumulator, it appeared that it was aerated probably from the nitrogen released when the diaphragm failed.

I was just pricing wheel sensors online and am thinking now that as long as the brakes work, screw the ABS! Or I need to get another job just to buy parts for this thing HAHA

I have read some threads that talk about the solenoids or whatever that get clogged screens but wasn't sure where exactly they are or if it applied to the '93 model. Still researching....

 

One of the first things to check with any abs issue is the relay in the trunk. The solder joints inside crack with age which throw up all the fault codes. A through examination with a magnifying glass will clearly show the tiny hairline fractures which need to be re soldered.... or you can source a new relay for about $50-$70

 

The overvolt relay is only for the Bosch system on the 1988/89 early cars.

bob gauff

 

Yeah, thats how I feel! I have noticed, since I switched brands, that Land Rover parts are a lot cheaper than Jag parts! This may make up the fuel cost difference!

 

Im having the same problem. The other day the brake and ABS lights came on. The brakes don't work it's like driving a 60's car with out power brakes. My wife is pissed she can't drive it. I have checked the brakes and noticed that there is no brake sensor on the passanger side front. Is this normal? I cleaned the ABS sensors on the front so far the back ones won't come out but I haven't really worked on them. Don't wont to damage them they are expensive. How do I look up the codes for the ABS?

Any help would be great!!!

Thanks,
Trevor

 

In trunk, driver's side, behind carpet there is a four pin plug. Take a paper clip reshaped into U and jump the black wire with the , I think it was brown/pink. Turn key on, not start and light will flash series of two digit codes. You can go to the link in my first post on this thread and enter them to find definitions.

If I remembered that second wire wrong, I am sure someone will correct me.

 

If the ABS and brake light come on when you apply the brakes, the accumulator is shot. At stop, with the brakes applied you will feel it very slightly letting out pressure as your brakes feels as its going to the floor. You will then hear the relay under the passenger dash as it re-pressurizes. When you put that new accumulator on, with the car off, pump those brakes till its hard. Start the car and pump again, your ABS light should go out. If you didn't do that, try it again.