When I bought my 90 White Sov with 145k on it, it had the 80 spoke steel wheels on it. When I bought my 90 beige VDP and my 90 black VDP they had the original jag wheels on them. All 4 of my wheel bearings in the Sov were shot and needed replacement, not a fun job for the DIY person. The white Sov had 4 different brand 205/70/15 tires on it with the spoke wheels as well. So I took them off and exchanged wheels and tires with the beige one and all was well. My black VDP had been sitting for about 7 years before I found it and the tires developed a indentation that it just wouldn't work out and caused a bumpy ride. I took the good tires off the white put them on the black. While doing so I took the spoke wheels with the mismatched brands off the beige and on the white to see if I really wanted to work my tail off to get those spoked wheels clean and keep them on the white Sov. I have driven it around aand the car just doesn't feel right. It could be the mismatched tires of course, different tread patterns but that along with these wheels are causing me concern. I have changed my mind. I believe having the steel wheels on the Sov caused the wheel bearings to break down. They have to be at least 20lbs heavier. I am assuming the cars just weren't built for those wheels. I could be way off here, but it sure seems suspicious to me. Its back to changing the wheels and tires again, this is the last time.

 

Hi,

I like the look of wire wheels, but they're a pain to maintain.

May be you already know this but spoke wheels work by stretching the upper 1/3 to 1/2 of the spokes as the wheel turns. The weight of the car hangs by them. Spokes do not work well in compression.

Coming from motorcycle experience and an MGB, the spokes have to tightened to a uniform tension -- try rapping (gingerly) each of your spokes in each wheel with a tiny brass hammer or something. Listen for a difference in tone -- the loose ones may not ring at all. You'll have to buy a spoke wrench to properly tighten them.

But that's not all. The rim itself has to be checked for runout after you tighten the spokes. With the tyre off the wheel, mount the wheel back on the hub (car jacked and stands put under the frame) and mount a dial indicator on a chassis component with the indicator's button resting on the rim. An improperly done rim will have measurable wobble. The way to fix this is to slightly loosen spokes on the inside of this area and tighten those on the outside (or vice versa). You'll have to find the factory specs for the permissible amount.

Then mount the tyre and get the assembly balanced.

Heavier wheels will take more torque (and hp and fuel) to spin them in order to accelerate the vehicle. It will take more braking force (and eat up your brakes) to slow down.

I still like the look of wire wheels, but they're a pain to maintain.

 

Possibly. But wheels bearing eventually wear out anyway and 145k miles certainly isn't premature for wheel bearing replacement.

Yeah, they're heavy. And one reason expensive cars used alloy wheels back in the day (they're commonplace now) was to reduce unsprung weight....which has a definite impact on how a car handles and feels on the road.

Cheers
DD

 

I have never thought of using wire wheels could damage your bearing in long term from their excessive weights . I think that's a plausible idea and makes sense
I think stock wheels are nice though

 

Do all of the tires have the same amount of tread on them?