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A/c can be topped up especially if it still works a little. Brakes could become expensive. Could be M/C needing rebuilt or replaced, could be a leak in a line or caliper (although the reservoir looks full). How does the fluid look? If the bushings at front are a known problem, that could "play" into the steering looseness. Puff of smoke could be valve seals- or not a huge problem,,, the rest? A little PBlaster or WD40 and off you go.
I really like that color. Car looks good from my house.....
Last edited by jerry_hoback; Sep 10, 2017 at 05:44 PM.
Since I've done significant work on my 93 model, I think I can qualify some advice. The blue smoke is not a big deal. They all do that at some point and continue to run well. If you buy the car, have the rear differential checked as the input shaft seal tends to go. I've had mine repaired. You don't want to lose the differential oil. The refrigerant leak in mine became worse over time. It turned out that the evaporator was bad. I ordered one online for $108 and changed it myself. It was a lot of work and I learned a great deal. Brakes might be spongy if someone changed the pads but didn't bleed them completely. I haven't changed body mount bushings but the front upper shock bushings go bad, causing a clunk from the front. They are cheap and easy to change.
As has been stated could be that the brakes just need a good bleed, if not there should be a few 2nd hand M/c available, the flaps on the radiator shroud need replacing, they should lay flat when relaxed, this forces the fan to draw air through the radiator, at speed they open to allow more air to flow. Door handles stiff can be relieved by lubrication, until then just apply a little knee pressure to the door when using the handle, this takes the pressure off the handle and linkages. Shock bushes can be changed with out massive removal of parts, I did the last set with only the wheel coming off to allow access. Sub frame 'V' mount are doable if they have failed but can be a pain to line up when re-attaching.
100k miles just run in
Some bushings in the front carriage should be replaced, the symptom only shows when backing up and breaking hard, your hear a faint thunk in the front
Puff of smoke on startup after at least 1.5 hour of sitting
One door handle just a tad stiff
A bit of oil evidenced behind rear differential on body
Hi whaleman,
Judging by the appearance of the engine bay, that looks like a very clean XJ40!
Air conditioning: If the A/C blows cooler than ambient temperature, then the system probably just has a slow leak and needs to be evacuated and recharged. You can visually and audibly check to confirm that the compressor clutch is engaging and disengaging. If the air from the vents is about ambient temperature, there are numerous possible causes.
Brakes: As Jerry mentioned, air in the system is the most likely cause of spongy brakes, but you'll want to investigate possible reasons for air in the system, such as brake pads/rotors worn so low that a caliper piston has extended too far. The last time I checked Jaguar still offered a rebuild kit for the master cylinder valve block, but it wasn't cheap. Be aware that the brake power assist/boost system on these cars is hydraulic and complicated, as opposed to the simple vacuum assist on most vehicles.
Suspension thunk: Virtually every suspension component is isolated by rubber bushings, which deteriorate due to age as much as to mileage, so you'll probably need to address at least some of those as a matter of course. The front shock top bushings that Robman25 mentioned are inexpensive and easy to replace, but in my experience they typically cause knocking noises when going over bumps. Thunks when changing into Reverse or braking hard may be more indicative of the transmission mount (very common) or front subframe pivot bushings (common).
Steering: A little on-center play is typical of these cars at 20+ years of age and 100K+ miles, and it's due to a combination of deterioration of rubber suspension bushings, subframe bushings, tie rod ends, steering rack bushings and the rack itself, wheel bearings, and wear in the steering column U-joints. The first thing to check is the front wheel bearings since they are somewhat under-engineered and require more frequent service than on most vehicles.
Puff of smoke on startup: As Jerry and Xdevo1973 have mentioned, the most likely cause is worn valve stem seals, especially on the exhaust valves. Since the engine tilts toward the exhaust side, oil tends to pool on that side of the engine, leak past the seals and down the valve stems into the cylinders, and burn off when the engine is first started. Most owners just live with the puff of smoke because even if you install new valve seals they tend to fail within a few years or less. Just check your oil every other fill up or so and keep it topped up and you'll be fine. By the way, oil capacity is 9 quarts, nearly twice as much as many modern cars, and the specification for most climates is 20W-50, which is much heavier than for most modern cars.
Door handle: As Jerry and Robman25 mentioned, the stiff handle probably just needs lubrication and adjustment of the linkage, but it will be important to do this sooner than later because there are threaded plastic linkage clips that can break and the power locking actuator mechanisms can struggle and fail if the linkage becomes too difficult for it to move. Good salvaged parts are typically available on eBay.
Differential: Leaks from the output bearing seals are common and typically signal failure of an output bearing. The bearings and seals can be replaced without removing the diff from the car. Leaks at the driveshaft input indicate failure of the pinion shaft seal and probably the pinion bearings. Replacing those requires removal of the diff and a rebuild. Leaks from the rear cover are uncommon, and may indicate blockage of the vent tube. It's also worth checking the drain and fill plugs to be sure they're secure.
For some maintenance and repair photos of our similar 1993 VDP, follow the link in my signature.
I hope the car checks out and becomes yours! We'll look forward to following your journey!
HI Don,
I think the rest of your message got truncated.
So, I am assuming that the M/C is either new for $727, or I have to find one in a salvage yard. I am used to paying $120 max for a M/C so this is hard to swallow.
Also, I do think it is the subframe V mount bushings that are bad, not sure this a DIY repair...
Thanks for the replies, this is really helping me. The car is a total beauty, color and condition.
If I do buy the car, I will proceed with more photos and such.
So, I am assuming that the M/C is either new for $727, or I have to find one in a salvage yard. I am used to paying $120 max for a M/C so this is hard to swallow.
I'm not sure why you weren't able to see my full message, unless you're viewing the site on your mobile device, which can sometimes be suboptimal.
I mentioned in my post that the last time I checked, Jaguar still offered a rebuild kit for the master cylinder valve block, which is more complicated than on most vehicles due to the fact that power assist is via pressurized hydraulic fluid rather than by engine vacuum. I just checked jaguarclassicparts.com and jaguarmerriamparts.com and they show the kit available for around $260.
It is possible to convert the car to a vacuum boost system, which several members have done. I believe the cost is even higher than rebuilding the master cylinder, but the advantage is that several other expensive or no-longer-available parts are no longer needed.
Thank you Don, this is exactly the kind of detail that I need to make an informed decision. Thanks to the replies, it does not look as daunting except for the brakes. And I did have another car (90 C4 911) with the pressurized hydraulic brakes system. It came on every time you opened the door. Glad it never broke while I owned the car, the entire car was very complex. Will update you all on what happens.
Checking out a 1994 XJ6 VDP, Some Questions
