Chk Engine/Power Loss Driving me Nuts
#1
Chk Engine/Power Loss Driving me Nuts
I am really at a loss here, for some time my car has been acting funny. Has an overall loss of power and sometimes it is huge loss of power. Like it dosen't have the power to get the car over 50 MPH and sometimes it just can't go up a hill at highway speeds.
When this problem arises and the accelerator is floored it will start to buffet almost like it is missing/not firing. Lay off the accelerator a bit and it looses the buffet but still huge loss of power.
Thats the pre lim. I have had a Chk engine on for a while as I knew it was the EGR solenoid. Finally replaced it with a new one from Jaguar and half a day later the light came on agian (Fuel fail 44 o2 sensor) so I replaced that last night.
So after the o2 was installed I had the car running for 30 seconds and guess what comes on again? Chk Engine..fuel fail 37 (EGR Valve Solenoid). So it seems either my car is frying the solenoid or is not getting a reading from it(wiring problem.) Any ideas and how you test this?
The car seems to be running better with new o2 but still the loss of power described above. To me it feels like it is not getting the fuel it needs because of the buffeting effect. I don't really know where to start, the fuel pump is new(but only a cheap aftermarket), new o2 sensor, clean throttle body, gave her the old seafoam treatment with throttleb cleaning, fairly new spark plugs.
So trying to narrow it down I think it could be: TPS(it was full of oil but not throwing any codes), failing injector(s), bad fuel pressure, screwy ECU, as some mentioned in previous post it could be bad Catalytic converters. Also wouldn't think it to affect it but the AIR Pump seems inoperative.
Another note if the car is really bad(wont go over 50) I can pull over turn off the car and back on and be on my way with restored power.
And a fun fact, since I had to remove the exhaust from the manifold to get to the O2 sensor I couldn't resist starting her up. It actually sounds pretty clean and cool with no muffler, but not really a sound characteristic of a Jag.
Thanks for help
When this problem arises and the accelerator is floored it will start to buffet almost like it is missing/not firing. Lay off the accelerator a bit and it looses the buffet but still huge loss of power.
Thats the pre lim. I have had a Chk engine on for a while as I knew it was the EGR solenoid. Finally replaced it with a new one from Jaguar and half a day later the light came on agian (Fuel fail 44 o2 sensor) so I replaced that last night.
So after the o2 was installed I had the car running for 30 seconds and guess what comes on again? Chk Engine..fuel fail 37 (EGR Valve Solenoid). So it seems either my car is frying the solenoid or is not getting a reading from it(wiring problem.) Any ideas and how you test this?
The car seems to be running better with new o2 but still the loss of power described above. To me it feels like it is not getting the fuel it needs because of the buffeting effect. I don't really know where to start, the fuel pump is new(but only a cheap aftermarket), new o2 sensor, clean throttle body, gave her the old seafoam treatment with throttleb cleaning, fairly new spark plugs.
So trying to narrow it down I think it could be: TPS(it was full of oil but not throwing any codes), failing injector(s), bad fuel pressure, screwy ECU, as some mentioned in previous post it could be bad Catalytic converters. Also wouldn't think it to affect it but the AIR Pump seems inoperative.
Another note if the car is really bad(wont go over 50) I can pull over turn off the car and back on and be on my way with restored power.
And a fun fact, since I had to remove the exhaust from the manifold to get to the O2 sensor I couldn't resist starting her up. It actually sounds pretty clean and cool with no muffler, but not really a sound characteristic of a Jag.
Thanks for help
Last edited by gunnerman; 01-31-2011 at 02:55 PM.
#2
Gunner:
There is a diagnostic process regarding the EGR valve etc. beginning on page 6-10 of the Haynes manual that you should read. There is probably a better process for FF 37 outlined in the full shop manual if you have that, although I didn't have the chance to look. My feeling is that this is the place to start. A carboned up EGR valve? Vacuum leaks?
Scott
There is a diagnostic process regarding the EGR valve etc. beginning on page 6-10 of the Haynes manual that you should read. There is probably a better process for FF 37 outlined in the full shop manual if you have that, although I didn't have the chance to look. My feeling is that this is the place to start. A carboned up EGR valve? Vacuum leaks?
Scott
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