Today my 1992 vandenplas started shaking I drove home and the oil light kept coming and going the oil will not rise above 2 and I popes the hood and I hear a tick. Does anyone know what this could be. The person at aurozone said it sounds like a valve but I'm looking for second opinions also what causes a valve to go bad because I was not doing anything I put my car into reverse and it started shaking I put it in drive and drove home

 

But I cheched the oil and it was at normal levels

 

234 views and knowbody knows nothing

 

Hi Don,

I've been busy with work so this is my first view of your thread. I understand your frustration, but we're all unpaid volunteers attempting to help each other when we can.

First of all, XJ40 oil pressure senders are unreliable and if your oil level is correct I wouldn't worry that the gauge reading is fluctuating. That may or may not be related to your other issues.

Your description of the symptoms raises a few questions that I hope you can clarify:

1. Did you purchase gasoline recently and if so, is it possible you got some that was contaminated with water?

2. How long has it been since your last good tuneup (air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel injector cleaner, etc.)?

3. Did the car shake only while the transmission was in reverse, or also when moving forward as you drove home?

4. Would you describe the "tick" you hear as very loud, loud, medium loud, or not very loud?

5. Do you hear the tick only with the hood open and listening at the engine bay, or do you hear it while driving the car? Is it possible the tick has been there before but you have just now noticed it?

6. How often does the tick occur? Does it sound as though it is happening once every engine revolution, twice per revolution, or more or less often?

A few easy things you can do:

7. Check the Vehicle Condition Monitor (VCM) for any stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). To do this, turn the key to Position II (ON) but do not start the engine. Press and release the VCM button on the trip computer to the right of the steering wheel. Watch for a message in the small display window below the speedometer. Write down anything you see and report it here. Codes will be in the form of "Fuel Fault" or "FF" plus a two-digit number. If one code is stored, it is possible others are as well. I can't remember the procedure for reading additional codes on a '92 but hopefully someone will add that information.

8. Check for any leaks in the air intake plumbing between the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) and the Throttle Body (TB). The underside of the accordion-hose that connects to the TB is a common place for cracks or a misaligned hose clamp. Inspect the crankcase breather hoses and all vacuum hoses for cracks or breaks.

9. Confirm that all spark plug cables are securely clipped to the spark plugs and distributor and the king lead is secure at the distributor and coil.

10. Remove the distributor cap and inspect it for signs of tracking along the plastic housing between the 6 metal terminals and for erosion of the terminals. Pull the rotor off of the distributor shaft and check its tip for signs of erosion and its plastic body for any signs of damage. Check the distributor shaft for signs that the spark may be arcing through the rotor and grounding through the shaft.

11. Tonight while it is dark, observe the engine while it is running and look for any visible sparking around the spark plug wires, distributor and coil.

12. Also while the engine is running, use a long screwdriver, wooden dowel or other long rigid item as a "stethoscope" to carefully listen to each fuel injector. Take care not to break the electrical connectors, which become brittle over time. You should hear a distinctive clicking sound at each injector. If one injector isn't clicking, that may be the source of your rough running.

13. Use your "stethoscope" to carefully probe around the cam cover to see if you can localize the ticking sound to one area. This is not a definitive test, but may help you know if a valve or lifter bucket is making the ticking sound. If so, adding two cans of CD2 or Rislone oil detergent to your engine oil may help quiet things down.

Hopefully others will offer some additional ideas.

I look forward to your answers to the questions above.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don's excellent list of questions, being time consuming to compile, is an example of the sort of well structured info that, had it been in your original posts, may have provoked quicker response.

I don't intend this as a slap . . . we are here to help, but trying to guess what an OP does not tell us, makes helping just as frustrating. From fuel pump, filter, AAV, HT, not to mention an overheating event nor all the electrical/electronic issues starting with ignition and inertia switches . . . there are many possible causes for your symptoms. Something as basic as what engine you have, can be critical. Try to be specific in answering Don's questions.

Cheers,

Ken

 

Thanks for that Ken & Don,
In the XJ(S1-3) forum(68'-92') we get questions about XJ6's ranging from 1969-2009 where the OP doesn't tell you what model they have.
With the right info straight up answers flow fairly quickly. Or we can direct the OP to the correct forum.

 

Did you purchase gasoline recently and if so, is it possible you got some that was contaminated with water? I had filled up about 3 days before and hadn't had this problem til about half a tank

2. How long has it been since your last good tuneup (air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel injector cleaner, etc.)? never in my ownership just oil change

3. Did the car shake only while the transmission was in reverse, or also when moving forward as you drove home?it now shakes from start to finish

4. Would you describe the "tick" you hear as very loud, loud, medium loud, or not very loud?its a very quiet well timed tick

5. Do you hear the tick only with the hood open and listening at the engine bay, or do you hear it while driving the car? Is it possible the tick has been there before but you have just now noticed it? Not really with the hood closed you hear the sound if the exhaust sputtering

6. How often does the tick occur? Does it sound as though it is happening once every engine revolution, twice per revolution, or more or less often? Probably once per revolution well timed

A few easy things you can do:

7. Check the Vehicle Condition Monitor (VCM) for any stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). To do this, turn the key to Position II (ON) but do not start the engine. Press and release the VCM button on the trip computer to the right of the steering wheel. Watch for a message in the small display window below the speedometer. Write down anything you see and report it here. Codes will be in the form of "Fuel Fault" or "FF" plus a two-digit number. If one code is stored, it is possible others are as well. I can't remember the procedure for reading additional codes on a '92 but hopefully someone will add that information ff44

8. Check for any leaks in the air intake plumbing between the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) and the Throttle Body (TB). The underside of the accordion-hose that connects to the TB is a common place for cracks or a misaligned hose clamp. Inspect the crankcase breather hoses and all vacuum hoses for cracks or breaks. I sprayed started fluid but I didn't get any bump in revs or any sign of vacuum leak

9. Confirm that all spark plug cables are securely clipped to the spark plugs and distributor and the king lead is secure at the distributor and coil.will update soon

10. Remove the distributor cap and inspect it for signs of tracking along the plastic housing between the 6 metal terminals and for erosion of the terminals. Pull the rotor off of the distributor shaft and check its tip for signs of erosion and its plastic body for any signs of damage. Check the distributor shaft for signs that the spark may be arcing through the rotor and grounding through the shaft.

11. Tonight while it is dark, observe the engine while it is running and look for any visible sparking around the spark plug wires, distributor and coil.

12. Also while the engine is running, use a long screwdriver, wooden dowel or other long rigid item as a "stethoscope" to carefully listen to each fuel injector. Take care not to break the electrical connectors, which become brittle over time. You should hear a distinctive clicking sound at each injector. If one injector isn't clicking, that may be the source of your rough running.I will attempt to acquire a stethoscope

13. Use your "stethoscope" to carefully probe around the cam cover to see if you can localize the ticking sound to one area. This is not a definitive test, but may help you know if a valve or lifter bucket is making the ticking sound. If so, adding two cans of CD2 or Rislone oil detergent to your engine oil may help quiet things down.

 

Hi Don,

Thank you for your answers, they're very helpful. Diagnostic trouble code FF44 indicates a problem with the Oxygen Sensor (O2S) electrical signal. It is possible the O2S has failed, but there are several other possible causes. The explanation begins on pdf page 108 of the Diagnostic Guide. You can download the manual here:

AJ6 Engine Management System/OBDI Diagnostic Guide

To properly diagnose the cause, you need to know if any other DTCs are flagged. I can never remember the routine for displaying additional codes in the pre-'93 cars but hopefully someone else will chime in or you will be able to find it by using the Advanced Search function under the Search tab above.

What you need to know is whether you also have FF23 (O2S feedback rich), FF26 (O2S feedback lean) or FF89 (carbon canister purge valve drive circuit).

Cheers,

Don

 

It was the oxygen sensor and the oil pressure sending unit thanks for all of your help sorry I haven't gotten back with the update on that until now thanks again