Hi again folks! As you know now I am getting into a 1994 XJ12(40) and I have a few more questions so I thought I would start a new thread so it might help someone else.

Now I am old fashion, so I don't even have a cell phone yet :-)
But, this car comes with one. My first question is: Can it still be used in todays technology and where does one get a battery for it for I noticed the battery in the trunk was missing?

Next question is about the antenna. It seema to be stuck so what do I need to do to get it to work again or will I more than likely have to replace motor and all?

One of the other minor problems with the car is that sometimes it will not start unless the shifter is pushed up as far as it can go in park and then you step on the brake, then you hear a sound and it will start??? What is causing this? Is there a faulty neutral saftey switch?

Next, a flickering oil/check motor lamp. The seller says it does this but yet there are no problems under the hood and the oil level is correct?

And finally I would like your recommendations for:

1) Oil - any specific kind

2) Gas - do I need to use Premium?

3) Any other "special" fluids I should know about?

4) Does anyone know the programming procedure for the remote?

Thanks for helping a new guy out and maybe some of these questions will help others as well :-)

peace out,
daddy

 

Hey daddy-o,

I'll answer your questions as best I can from the top down:

More than likely, the old cell phone will not work with today's technology. They use a completely different type of signal...but of course, it depends on the phone itself. Do a Google search for the phone, and try to find a provider. The only place you could possibly get a battery for an out-dated phone would be the manufacturer (if they still exist) or eBay (those would be my guesses).

If the antenna SEEMS to be stuck...try some WD40 or other spray-type lubricant. Spray it into the antenna hole. Also, can you hear the motor trying to work? If not, then yes, you need a new motor for it.

Starting problem: can you start the car JUST by pushing in the brake? Some "newer" cars require that you engage the brake to start it anyway. Other than that, I'm sorry, but I have no idea. Have a Jag specialist look at it.

The flickering oil lamp could be low oil pressure...which means any number of things. Ask the seller if it uses oil (burns oil). Does he have to add oil every so often? Is it low when he does an oil change? If the answer to any of these is yes, you have an oil leak somewhere. Could be a gasket, could be worn rings within the cylinders, or any number of other things. Lucas makes an additive that "refreshes" gaskets from the inside. Add a bit more oil, and see if the light stops flickering. If it does, then you've got your problem narrowed...but that doesn't mean you would then know where the CAUSE of the problem lies. Also, you can take your car to AutoZone and see if they can get a reading from the Check Engine light. It may tell you nothing, or it might be able to tell you something.

Oil: check under the hood, on the door frame, or in the owners manual. It will tell you the best oil for your engine.

Gas: no need to use Premium. Regular is fine (in my opinion), but again, the manual will tell you the minimum octane rating for your engine. The only reason you would use a higher grade fuel is emissions purposes and engine cleaning properties.

Other "special fluids": here's an interesting article on your brake system. http://www.coventrywest.com/Jaguar/t...ipofmonth4.htm

No, I don't know the programming procedure for the remote. Check with your local Jag dealer.

 

m0t0rm0uth quite summed up well .

I will be answering on your oil question . I normally use what the owner manual says but my Jaguar Specialist recommends 10W60 , Castrol Edge full synthetic oil .
We do use it on oure XJ40 and quite happy with that

 

Hey daddy, look at this thread :
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=4667

However , I take no responsibility if anything fails during this process .

 

Hi, for the remote programming procedure look in the XJ40 FAQ at the top of the forum.
Follow the link to Tips/n/Tricks then go to section 8. Make sure that you have good batteries in the remotes, before attempting.

P.S. on my 92/93 XJ40 I have still not found the 12v backup battery that is mentioned in the article (after 6 years) so it may well not exist on this model.

Also the remotes are specific to the control module found in the overhead interior lighting unit (the black box with the radar type dome). So if the programming procedure does not work it could be that the previous keeper has given you replacement units and you will need to visit either a dealer or contact someone like JagTechOhio to purchase the corresponding remotes+module second hand.

Nice one Caddy our posts crossed in the ether;-)

 

Yep , Translator I like to read your helps as well

 

Thanks for all the replies guys! Alot of useful information. I was also wondering where the backup battery to the alarm is located after reading that procedure in the tips and tricks.

But I got bad news today. I told the owner to get a pre test smog and it failed :-( Everything passed except emissions. It read high in HC (PPM) & NO (PPM). The guy in the smog shop said to run some tank cleaner through a full tank of gas and then they will check it again.

Any suggestions to help this matter??????? I am really bummed because if it won't pass, I don't want it because it might cost me more to get it to pass than the car might be worth.

HELP

peace out,
daddylogan

 

The high HC (hydrocarbons) is probably where you're getting your blinking oil light from...worn rings. High HC means you're burning oil. You can try that Lucas Stop Leak in your oil, and try that tank cleaner, too. Everything you can do to try to pass emissions. That's the short version. The long version is that IF you DO have bad rings, that means a ring job or a new engine later down the road...no pun intended. A new ring job for labor will sometimes be almost as much as the cost of a new engine. Or, it could be something as simple as an EGR valve (although I'm not sure Jags have those). Also (as an afterthough), it could be something like a blown head gasket (if you ARE burning oil). Check the dipstick to see if there is water in the oil (you'll notice a greyish-brown liquid instead of the typical clear or black of used oil). That color will tell you if there's water in the oil, and thus if you have a messed up gasket on the inside of the engine somewhere.

What were your HC and NO at? After having learned from a previous mistake like the one you're talking about, depending on how FAR above the normal HC and NO levels they are, that would tell me to tell you whether or not to buy the car. Chances are that's the reason THAT guy is selling it. I'd bet my lunch money on it.

 

Hey!

I don't know the numbers but it passed at low rpm but didn't at high rpm. The car leaks no oil and under the hood is spectacular...no signs of anything bad going on. I went for a ride in the car to and ya can't even tell it's running. The reason he is getting rid of the car is simply the gas mileage. He has to commute quite a distance to his job and the gas is killing him at only getting 15mpg's. I have known him for a long time and he is one of the honest ones so I trust him. So he is going to put cleaner in with a full tank of gas, change the plugs and change the oil and we will give it another pre test next week.

So if there is anyhting else you can tell me please do! All info welcome :-)

peace out,
daddy

 

Well what did he expect with a 12 cylinder car? lol Let me know how the cleaner in the gas goes.