So I know this was all fixed but I wanted to hijack the thread for a second.

My 92 VDP was making a chunk chunk sound over dips and cracks in the road and I was getting a bit of a wobble in the tires. Took it to a guy I know and he looked and said wheel bearings. Said ok and that was that. Got it back and it sounded better but then got WAY worse. Only had it out for about 150 miles total and it is making me nervous SOOOOOO I jacked it up and puled the tie rod ends just from the wheel (lower tie rod). It is very loosy goosey and I can move it with just my hand. Then messed around with the whole assembly and it too was pretty easy to move. No in and out and no grinding like other cars I have had with bad tie rods. All boots are ok but the car has 150k miles on it.

All that being said the 200-300 for labor is a crazy amount just for the work and not including alignment and parts.

The mechanic said to me that there were all kinds of lengths of inner tie rods and I am having a hard time finding part numbers for the VDP.

So 1) Anyone know specifically what the part number is for the inner tie rods on both sides of a 92 VDP Vin #SAJKY174XNC651272? And 2) The ball joints in the Tie rods should be too stiff to move with normal human powers right?

I have changed a couple tie rods in my days but they were all on trucks and the VDP always seems to have some weird part or way to get about fixing it. Any help is appreciated. BTW I do have a haynes manual for it. (Somewhere)

Outers I can find at Autozone if their computer is right for around 30 a piece. Sound right?

 

BTW the Jag dealer wants 205.50 each for inners and outers are 128.00 each!!!

Not sure how Autozone says the outers are 30 bucks a piece. I have had issues however in the past with no one knowing what parts actually fit on what as the xj6, vdp, and xj40 apparently have different parts that work.

Thanks in advance.

 

Hi Rutty

The thread you posted to had had no activity since 2010, so I've moved your posts to your own new thread with a title more specific to your questions.

A great place to look up part numbers is jaguarclassicparts.com, the parts service of the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust in the U.K. Note that the inner tie rod may be called a "ball joint." Once you find a part number, it is worthwhile to search that number at jaguarmerriamparts.com or gaudinjaguarparts.com because sometimes part numbers are superseded by Jaguar, and these dealer websites will help you confirm the latest part number.

I think your steering rack was probably made by ZF (one of the world's largest makers of transmissions, steering racks and more), so it's possible if not likely that any auto parts store can get the inner and outer tie rods for you, but for certain the good independent Jaguar parts suppliers like forum sponsors Coventry West, SNG Barratt and Jagbits should be able to help. Also, try RockAuto, because they carry a lot of suspension components by Lemforder, which is another Jaguar OEM, and they may have even made the original tie rods for the ZF steering rack.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don,

Thanks again for the great information.

I just want to be sure I understand the information I got on the 2 sites.

On Classic parts the inner tie rod part number is JLM1097
On the Merrimam site the inner and outer are JLM1097 - Inner tie rod and JLM1098 - Outer tie rod

So if I go to say autozone and ask for those parts is there a way to cross reference non OEM parts to make sure they are the correct parts before I begin work?

 

Hi Rutty,

Those appear to be the correct Jaguar part numbers, and those are what you will need if you order your parts from one of the independent Jaguar parts specialists like Coventry West, SNG Barratt, Jagbits, Welsh Enterprises, etc., or from one of the online Jaguar dealers like jaguarmerriamparts.com or gaudinjaguarparts.com.

But if you go to AutoZone, O'Reilly, Carquest, Advance, NAPA, etc., or if you order from RockAuto, you'll just need your car year, model and engine (6- or 12-cylinder) to see if they have compatible parts and check the prices. They may or may not be able to crossreference the Jaguar part number but it's worth asking them.

Cheers,

Don

 

So We will see if the Autozone can get the right part from the VIN. The inner and outers for both sides cost me 178 out the door. Have to wait 2 days for shipping but they should be right. Saves me about 400 between that and the cost of install.

 

We'll anxiously await your report, Rutty.

Cheers,

Don

 

Alright everyone have a progress report.

Autozone did get the right parts and minus the lock nuts being seized (a bit of heat fixed that right up) everything came off and went on without a hitch. Took it for an alignment and we are back on the road.

The old tie rods on both sides were so loose just picking them up the would change position. Steering is way tighter now which is awesome.

Now for some bad. None of my work on the car over the last few months has fixed my rattle. HOWEVER I did figure out what it is now.

I replaced the front shocks about 6 months ago but at some point in that time the coolant reservoir seam has split and coolant has been leaking on the bushings. The top bushings are toast for sure. That is where the sound is coming from.

Does anyone know the part number for the coolant reservoir is? I am seeing several parts and it is the big plastic tank with the fill cap in it. Can't seem to find pictures of that part.

I think Jagbits also carries just the shock bushings right? (I will look unless someone knows off the top of their head).

Finally one more thing. I need the rubber o ring that goes on the metal frame where the coolant tank actually rests. Mine has been gone for years. Anyone know where to get weird rubber gaskets and what not?

Thanks for every ones help with this. I don't have to fear the car not being safe anymore at least.

 

Oh and would anyone suggest this How to Fix Coolant Reservoir Tank Leaks | DoItYourself.com over buying a used or new part?

 

Hi Rutty,

Great progress!

Regarding the shock bushings, I'm sure Jagbits carries them. I assume your bushings are the OE style yellow foam ones. Jagbits may offer you hard rubber replacements that will last much longer (forever?), but my experience with those is that they make the front end ride much harsher. After trying them, I went back to the yellow foam rubber bushes. They fail in about 5 years (the left side fail first due to their proximity to the coolant reservoir) but they're easy to replace. Here are photos showing how to do it without removing the shock:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


The best place to look up the part numbers is at jaguarclassicparts.com, the parts service of the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust, or, download and install the Jaguar Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) from this forum.

I don't have any experience repairing coolant reservoir tanks, so I can't tell you how successful you are likely to be, but it would be worth a try. When our tank began to leak I purchased a salvaged one from an eBay seller. Just match the year of car and the style of the reservoir in the eBay photos and if possible get the low-coolant warning sensor along with the tank and make sure its electrical connector matches yours. The sensors eventually fail, so it's good to have a spare.

Cheers,

Don

 

Ok new update. After replacing shocks, tie rods, wheel bearings, and alignment... I was still having a wobble. Now in all fairness all those Items needed replacing badly HOWEVER took the fully repaired jag up to the tire shop to have a screw removed and wheels balanced and rotated. Guess what. All 4 tires were over 1 OZ off. Fixed that and what do you know, drives like a new car. No bounce and super straight.

So while I am glad I found all the issues and fixed them, the moral of the story is check your tires people.