This is an older thread but it seems to be the definitive PDU thread! I just got mine today. There are a few cables I’m hoping can be identified:

3539-1169-0 Isolater RS232 cable
a yellow thing
a spring thing
3130-0794-00
3110-7284 with OBDII end

the rest was in the book it came with

 

Mainly thanks to the OP, Nick (NTL1991) who has now maintained his post #1 linked Dropbox storage to the relevant documents and software for almost SEVEN YEARS.

Graham

 

How do you disconnect the CD ROM ribbon without breaking the connector? I want to try cleaning the optical eye and replacing a couple capacitors per this link;

next_cdrom_refurb

 

Simply grasp the blue connector at each side and pull it out of the drive. It may help to ease out one side then the other alternatively to slowly release the connector. You could also use a small pry tool on each side to evenly apply pressure to remove it.

Those drives are Sony-bus drives with a proprietary interface. It is not compatible with ATAPI or SCSI.

The original drives fail due to to faulty capacitors on the circuit board. It’s fairly simple to fix. Here are some links:

http://llamamusic.com/s50s550/AppleCD_150_Repair.html

next_cdrom_refurb

Nick

 

From PDU Dealer training introduction and Module II.pdf :
3130 • 0794-00 = JDS - PDU printer cable "Blue"

The two yellow sensors I am unable to identify as PDU sensors because the connector doesn't look familiair. Will check my boxes with part numbers for you.

 

I’ve ended up ordering Gijzzy’s board. The CD ROM Isn’t ejecting consistently and no amount of capacitors will fix that.

So what should I use for PDU batteries?

 

That’s a good idea. That new board will hey you into technology that will ensure that it will be serviceable for years to come. Even if you were able to fix the Sony CD ROM, one day it’ll crap out and there may not be anymore upgrade boards available. It speeds up the read time as well.

Those batteries are readily available as well. You’ll need 6 batteries. I believe they are Sub-C batteries. You’ll need to confirm, but find ones with the most mAh you can. (Milli Amp Hours)

I bought 6- Ni-Cd SC2800mAh 1.2V

They work great. I found them on eBay.

I would also recommend purchasing some heat shrink to keep the batteries packed in line, the way they need to be. Tape wasn’t doing a good job.

It was similar to Φ105mm Battery Sleeve Wrap PVC Heat Shrink Tube Thick Flat Width 165mm x 1M

 

The only things related to "ford fds" or "fds2000" on ebay right now are paper manuals from Germany. Is there some other search term I should be looking for to find one of these units?

 

Steve, try a few separate saved searches such as: PDU, Portable Diagnostic Unit, GenRad Jaguar, Ford FDS, FDS2000. I found mine under “portable diagnostic unit” and it never came up under “Jaguar PDU”. I think I waited two years before one popped up?

 

The new battery arrived today. After cutting off the old connector and soldering to the battery, the PDU fires right up. It wouldn’t stay on without being plugged in before with the old battery. I used this battery:


Powerextra 7.2V 3000mAh High Capacity Rechargeable 6-Cell NiMH Battery Pack Low-self Discharge with Standard Tamiya Connectors Compatiable RC Cars, RC Truck, RC Airplane, RC Helicopter, RC Boat
looking forward to the Gijzzy ATAPI board! I didn’t realize ATAPI was also obsolete however! I ordered a used ATAPI drive, a new SATA drive, and a SATA to ATAPI adapter, on the outside chance an adapter to adapter will work. If not, I’ll use the ATAPI drive.

christmas is early!

 

Do you have any idea what years and models of Fords this FDS2000 units was used with?
Most of the various Ford test equipment I have seen on evil-bay is Ford Rotunda stuff.

 

I know someone who used a Sata drive and adaptor to IDE with success. So fingers crossed

 

Hi- I received and installed gijzzy’s board, along with an atapi to Sata adapter. That all works great! Loaded up my first CD and started to play around.

i am having trouble with the VBA Vehicle Battery Adapter. The VBA lights up with one green light (unless it’s unplugged from PDU, when a red light also comes on). The orange battery light lights up on PDU when VBA plugged in. However the PDU says VBA not connected properly... so I haven’t gotten very far. I opened up the VBA to look for physical damage and it looked fine.

So I didn’t get very far!

-John

 

I had similar problems with my VBA and my problem was a broken wire within the 12V connector. Inside the +12V "wire" between connector the and VBA are several wires (I think two) and one was broken so it didn't work but it did light up as you mentioned.

 

Gijzzy, you were exactly right. The small red wire was broken off near where it connects to the fuse block. You’re awesome! Thanks.

 

Again, glad I am able to help! It took me two years and buying an other complete (Ford) PDU set.

 

One member here has requested the introduction VHS and training VHS tapes. We will furnish after the New year. Perhaps someone can load them on you tube or another platform. Until then here are a few pics of our Manuals and software. Some is WDS and we even hold JTS if there is any interest.

 

One member here has requested the introduction VHS and training VHS tapes. We will furnish after the New year. Perhaps someone can load them on you tube or another platform. Until then here are a few pics of our Manuals and software. Some is WDS and we even hold JTS if there is any interest.

 

Corona time so time for a new chapter (hoping everybody is in good health).
I have bought an extra PDU but it was not complete, so I decided to try building the cables my self. I was able to source a bunch of connectors (only one PM4 connector for the 0755 cable) and have finished almost one set of home build cables. The connector that connects to the PDU are identical to the original, the 0756 car connector housing looks different but connector is the right one for our cars, for the PM4 connector I need some crimping isolation to finish it. But for now I am quit happy with the result! Although to be honest, I still have to test them.

Next step, building a base station because my new PDU doesn't have one.

Picture:
Top right, original 0756 cable
Top left, home build 0756 cable
Bottom right, has to become attached to PM4 connector
Bottom left, PM4 connector (need more of those)

If it works it is easy to convert a Ford PDU unit to a Jaguar unit and more people would be able to source a PDU for there own car if they would like.

 

I would really like to find a PDU setup for our cars. I periodically when I remember look on ebay but so far nothing shows up.