Loud Pop
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 111
Likes: 12
From: Los Angeles
Loud Pop
Was at a drive-thru fast food spot in my 91' Sovereign, 85 degrees outside A/C on full blast.... when I heard loud POP, then what sounded like air releasing. I checked my underwear but that wasn't it 
....
However, immediately the A/C started blowing hot air. So is this most likely the compressor that has failed? I've had compressors fail before but never this dramatically..
....However, immediately the A/C started blowing hot air. So is this most likely the compressor that has failed? I've had compressors fail before but never this dramatically..
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 20,456
Likes: 15,240
From: Crossroads of America
Hi Jagbro,
It's hard to say what may have happened, but it certainly sounds like your A/C system blew a leak somewhere. If you will carefully examine all the hoses, the compressor, and condenser, you may find a connection or place on a hose that is oily, indicating compressor oil has leaked out at that point.
If you can't find any obvious problem, the next step might be to have the system leak tested with UV dye.
One common problem is that the rubber support bushings on the underside of the condenser deteriorate and allow the condenser to rub against a metal brace in the radiator frame. Over time this wears a hole in the rear surface of the condenser at the front left corner (as viewed from the driver's seat). I haven't heard of this resulting in an eruptive leak, but just this week I replaced the condenser in an X300 that had suffered this problem, resulting in a sudden loss of refrigerant.
If it turns out that it was your condenser, you want to also replace the receiver-drier, expansion valve, the two larger support bushings on the underside of the condenser and the two smaller grommets on the upper side, as well as all four of the radiator mounting bushings (which are all the same part number), and the green O-rings at all the connections.
Please keep us informed.
Cheers,
Don
It's hard to say what may have happened, but it certainly sounds like your A/C system blew a leak somewhere. If you will carefully examine all the hoses, the compressor, and condenser, you may find a connection or place on a hose that is oily, indicating compressor oil has leaked out at that point.
If you can't find any obvious problem, the next step might be to have the system leak tested with UV dye.
One common problem is that the rubber support bushings on the underside of the condenser deteriorate and allow the condenser to rub against a metal brace in the radiator frame. Over time this wears a hole in the rear surface of the condenser at the front left corner (as viewed from the driver's seat). I haven't heard of this resulting in an eruptive leak, but just this week I replaced the condenser in an X300 that had suffered this problem, resulting in a sudden loss of refrigerant.
If it turns out that it was your condenser, you want to also replace the receiver-drier, expansion valve, the two larger support bushings on the underside of the condenser and the two smaller grommets on the upper side, as well as all four of the radiator mounting bushings (which are all the same part number), and the green O-rings at all the connections.
Please keep us informed.
Cheers,
Don
Veteran Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,726
Likes: 1,910
From: Victoria BC Canada
Just as an aside, I have successfully (going on 3 yrs) repaired a condenser leak using 2 epoxy products. I believe the same technique would also work on a radiator.
It really depends WHERE the perforation is located, but if the area is accessible (in my case the leak was at the high side outlet pipe) - it can be repaired.
You will need a package of La-Co heat stik, a remarkable HVAC epoxy (activates with heat and cures in 60 seconds) and some JB weld.
First, rough up the area with some 100 grit paper then heat the area GENTLY with a propane torch touching the La-co stik to the hot area until it starts to melt ..the application technique is identical to soldering BTW.
Puddle the stik until it covers the damage and allow to cool. The repair is now sealed - but - the repair won't really withstand any wear and tear or vibration long-term - the La-Co stuff is extremely brittle.
In order to reinforce the repair, make up some JB weld and after roughing up the La-Co with some sandpaper, cover the repair with a good thick layer of JB.
Use the slow cure stuff for best results. You can also reinforce the JB with some fibreglass tape, but if you do, make sure you you get the tape/cloth fully wetted out.
That repair will hold A/C pressures and can be used just about anywhere in the system. In my case I had no alternative because at the time there were no XJ40 factory R134A condensers available - anywhere, and believe me, I looked EVERYWHERE!!!
HTH
Larry
It really depends WHERE the perforation is located, but if the area is accessible (in my case the leak was at the high side outlet pipe) - it can be repaired.
You will need a package of La-Co heat stik, a remarkable HVAC epoxy (activates with heat and cures in 60 seconds) and some JB weld.
First, rough up the area with some 100 grit paper then heat the area GENTLY with a propane torch touching the La-co stik to the hot area until it starts to melt ..the application technique is identical to soldering BTW.
Puddle the stik until it covers the damage and allow to cool. The repair is now sealed - but - the repair won't really withstand any wear and tear or vibration long-term - the La-Co stuff is extremely brittle.
In order to reinforce the repair, make up some JB weld and after roughing up the La-Co with some sandpaper, cover the repair with a good thick layer of JB.
Use the slow cure stuff for best results. You can also reinforce the JB with some fibreglass tape, but if you do, make sure you you get the tape/cloth fully wetted out.
That repair will hold A/C pressures and can be used just about anywhere in the system. In my case I had no alternative because at the time there were no XJ40 factory R134A condensers available - anywhere, and believe me, I looked EVERYWHERE!!!
HTH
Larry
Veteran Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,726
Likes: 1,910
From: Victoria BC Canada
no. you need a small torch - butane or map gas, bernzomatic etc ...not very spendy, maybe $20 tops?
You have to get the La-Co from a Refrigeration supplier of maybe eBay. You heat up the condenser, not the epoxy ..you just puddle the epoxy on to the hot surface - don't apply the flame to the epoxy directly!
You have to get the La-Co from a Refrigeration supplier of maybe eBay. You heat up the condenser, not the epoxy ..you just puddle the epoxy on to the hot surface - don't apply the flame to the epoxy directly!
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 111
Likes: 12
From: Los Angeles
Great! I ordered the LA-CO ($17 on Ebay), should be here by the week-end and I will get busy. I'll get the torch and JB Weld at ACE hardware or somewhere like that... I'll let you know how it goes and thanks!