Now that my car is apart I think I'm going to address a few of the small issues that it needs before Winter sets in.

One being the front shock top mounts. I've replaced them 3x in 2 years and Im unsure of its just the low quality mounts available or that's just the way it is.

I am wondering if the mount bushings that come with new shocks might be of a higher quality and the shocks seems to be getting a little soft.

I replaced the rears about 18 months ago with KYBs and they have held up but I am looking at a set of Bilsteins for $83 each or KYBs for about $52 each.

Anyone have any experience with the Bilsteins

 

Bilsteins garner near universal praise. I doubt you'll find anyone with any negative experiences or remarks.

Cheers
DD

 

Well i too would have said to stay with bils. Theyre oem and great. Buuuut, youve already done kybs in the rear so stay with them in front. Shocks are valved differantly and have a differant feel. I dont recommend mixed differant branded tires or shocks on a car.

 

I had my rear shocks replaced with Monroe yellow color stuff and put a few thousand miles on them ,I had no and got rid of the car with those

 

I replaced both front and rear with the OE Bilsteins and they ride very well. The Bilsteins also come with the OE style bushings and washers which was another selling factor for me. I had read on the forums that the KYBs gave a bit stiffer ride feel so it depends on the type of ride feel you are looking for. The B's may cost more but I didn't mind the extra for the way the car handles now.

 

I have a new set of KYB's,shocks,and springs coming for "champ',our winter car,1991 XJ6.when we got it the springs were torched to lower the ride height and it scrapes over speed bumps.I will measure the new parts and compare to the stock parts in our other car,'Red" when the time comes.I love new parts.....cheers,JIM.

 

I have run KYBs for 2000 miles, great ride. They come very close to the originals and are very good value.

 

How the neck do you get the old front shocks off? Manuel says nothing helpful. Ready to put on new shocks and can't get the old top nut to back off. Sorry to hijack.

 

The threaded end of the shock should have a flat spot where you can put a wrench or small vise grips to hold the rod from turning. You also want to support the lower control arm with a jack. Once that top nut is removed you can lower the jack far enough to pull the shock out. Just don't lower the arm to far to release the spring. The spring is under alot of tension;ie dangerous!! But I'm thinking the sway bar may only allow a certain amount of drop to the control arm anyway.Just lower the control arm slowly and only far enough to work the shock out.

 

Arent origonals boge shockers? I had kyb on a ford wagon here is Australia at one time, fantastic ride at high speed.

 

I ended up putting the KYBs on about 2 weeks ago but since the weather has turned to snow so the car has been parked at the shop where I work and I have been driving my F150. So I haven't had a chance to really see how it feels on the freeway.

 

well,some new goodies arrived finally.new kyb springs and shocks all around for our "champ" car.

but how to install,well,redd is parked in front of the cave so I went about making the correct tool to do the job.
I started with a length of HI STRENGTH steel redi-rod in 3/4 dia.N/F thread.
File a small "flat"on one end to receive a center punch mark.You must get this right!
the hole drilled must be centered exactly!
The pin i am using is the shank of a grade 8 bolt sawed off,measuring .2815 diameter.
I found a drill bit measuring .280" diameter,cross drilled and the pin went in as a "gentle tap" fitment.
I just measured the slot on the car to get the length right,1.325".
I filed off the edges of the pin and went for a test fit,seems good.
Now to get the angle for the bottom bit,using a short hunk of pipe,saw off the correct angle and test,again,the washer used is HIGH STRENGTH!
Test fit,seems ok.
Now to weld it up,again,test fit.
Cross drill a hole at the other end of the drawbolt to reference the position of the main pin.
I made the whole assembly 22" long,tried it out,and ten minutes later the spring is out and on the bench!
The final pics are of the pin end after being used,with no ill effects so far.
It does help to add some oil to the "cup" of the assembly to lube the draw nut.
Just for reference the stock spring,and the new KYB are the same length and diameter,so the stocker is going back in the red car with a small modification to the upper and lower spring seats.
Besides,IT'S TOO COLD OUTSIDE! to work on the car for too long...

 

well,a break in the cold prompted me to get some springs in the wifes ride.

pulling out the old springs is a snap with my made up tool.

Putting new stuff in got me thinkin...390#/inch,so I arranged my jack to take the lion's share of the weight,and arranged some spacers to "cage" the assembly as we go.

worked very well,and with some semblance of safety.

I found the rears were a snap as machinery goes,and i was gobsmacked to see the rear bushings were still serviceable some 23 years later.

I thought the clunking from the back end might have been that,but not the case.

The new KYB rear set came with washers i felt were too small,so I was able to re-use the stock washer for the rears.

While i was under the rear,the self-levelling is now a complete delete!~from the back anyway.

Now the springs are all new KYB,and a proper curb height is now returned.


My next job is now to install new KYB's on the front,along with an under hood delete of the rest of the hydraulic system.

Cheers,and stay warm(or cool)all,Jim.

 

Hey Jim - wanna take a look at my suspension for me? I get up island now and again and it looks like you the man!!!

 

Sure,I will look at yer car,the buddy-buddy rate of cold beer applies in this instance.So far no complaints from my wife!After i get back today i will start the under hood delete of all the hydro pump etc.(with pics)

Cheers,Jim..

 

emailed you Jim - thanks!

 

got yer email,the system works!