Okay I have an 94 xj6 with 4.0l slant 6 with sport pack it's the square headlamp model I have a no start condition currently this is my only car .... I have replaced the distributor with a spare I just happened to have was tested good prior to installation same with the following parts, ignition amplifier, coil from 67 Camaro 5.7l (purchased new).. all fuses(new) fuel pump and fuel pump housing from 01 mercury sable (all new no modifications necessary, identical specs) new fuel pump relay and New cps(crankshaft position sensor) probably forgot a few thing just ask but anyway here are some of my crude diagnostic result

Has good injector pulse (verified with noid lights)
Has spark but is suspected weak as its orange
Petrol soaked plugs all NGK(also just replaced new)
Cps purchased new from jagbits.com 99.99us
Have Schumacher charging station for battery also good tested
Have compression

Vehicle died while driving then had no spark fixed that kinda now I'm here I'm thinking possible ecu in passenger footwell or I'm missing something can anyone help ...if I forget to include any details please ask

 

Does your rev counter show ~200rpm when cranking? Have you changed the rotor and cap?

Larry

 

Hi Larry I have nee cap and rotor on order none in the area unfortunately how ever the rotor button is 1 month old still looks great but the cap is about 6 months old so it is recent

 

B4 changing cps showed 200rpm steady while cranking now after installing new part from jagbits tach dips below 0 while cranking

 

You have a duff CPS, or the connector is hooped - if connector OK, return it. That is why your car won't start. Try putting the old one back on.

Cap and Rotor sound OK, try the CPS!

Larry

 

Will try agian in the morning its 11.02 PM here and let u know what happens and what do u mean hooped if u r referring to the wire being coiled over itself it is in fact NOT but I will look anyway

 

No - by hooped I meant no good, failed, bad, wire pushed back and not connecting etc. Sorry, common expression in my crowd

good luck tomorrow

Larry

 

He means that if the crank position sensor were functioning as expected then you would see the tach register approximately 200rpms while cranking on the starter. Since you are not seeing that, then either the "new" crank sensor you installed is no good or somehow the wiring connection to the crank sensor is somehow not making the complete electrical connection.

 

Sorry I'll write in English next time.

Larry

 

Yes, Larry, quit speaking in jive here

 

Right so I cleaned my connector tach now registering 200 rpm give or take still no start have spark have fuel hve compression ether does not help

 

If ether won't start it, you don't have a strong, regular spark hitting all cylinders - rotor is often the issue ...but of course you changed distributors - is you firing order ok?

One other thing I can think of, move the gear selector to "N" then try again.


Larry

 

CORRECT as I mentioned early I do now have spark however it is weak its orange in color and the arcs are not audible so now I need help determining if my no start is from a different reason or this one and which components should be thoroughly inspected
or replaced

 

Keep in mind whatever the problem may be has to

1. cause an already warm engine under load (merging onto highway I have giant led foot used to race autocross) to stall with out warning

2. Prevent restart of said engine (regardless of temp)

3. Spark is now weak when it was not b4




I do OCD check ups on lola (that's my jaguars name)
I do things like total fluid flushes, replace all bulbs and fuses when I bought her and once a year, weekly brake inspections, weekly rebalancing the tires,weekly pressure checks, daily fluid check, monthly fuel pressure checks (Lucas tried), weekly spark plug checks, 32 point inspection monthly I run a mechanic and tire shop she gets every spare second of my time (she sat in storage for 10 years 1 owner another mechanic purchase but never retitled so still one owner he tried to get it running but could not so I talked him down from 2.5k to 400 us and been driving it ever since (approximately 27k miles))

I love my jag what can I say

 

Neutral safety switch works as designed no faults there the engine turns over but still no start

 

I think you said newish cap and rotor, but is button contacting

 

Jerry You're right I did say newish cap with newer newish rotor I have both on order I set that thought to the side only because it died under load while in motion then wouldn't even try to run and the possibility slim of this being the culprit however I'm not always right I don't know everything and I value and respect other owners and or mechanics as experience is far more valuable than text book knowledge so do u think a bad cap and rotor could cause this scenario and if so what might cause them to deteriorate with such speed and ferocity to cause this problem ( I like fixing things once the right way)

 

Not sure what happened there... I was trying to say that I had a distributor cap button get stuck up in the cap where it couldn't contact the rotor...it was newish too. Also, since we seem to be grabbing at straws, your coil is not wired backwards is it?

 

No you're good Jerry sorry for ranting ......only car wife blew up my 02 maxima with 370z hr swap and 10 month old baby so I'm sitting on needles till its fixed so my apologies not normally like this

Coil is wired correctly and I doubt it I've took the whole ignition system apart several time in the past 4 days being very careful not to muck it up
Resistor not currently hooked up coil is sbc v8 coil tried both ways still no start...🤯

 

My money is on the cap and rotor - it is usually something simple like that, hope so!

Larry