Went to pick up new cap and rotor they ordered the wrong ones u wouldn't believe what the correct ones cost at napa 50 us for that cap with 10.99 us shipping 5 days away and the rotor 36.99 with 10.99 us shipping also 5 days away

 

I get most of my service items from Rock Auto, (no affil) you can get a selection of caps for under $25 and a rotor starts at $8 ...shipping pretty quick too

Oh one more thing - did the car ever run after you swapped out the distributor? I was thinking if not, maybe It might be an idea to check the orientation procedure in Don's last post in the "94 XJ6 XJ40 upper timing chain tensioner gasket O-ring replacement procedure" thread

Just trying to cover all the bases.

Larry

 

I read that post very informative I did that... however I didn't know about the rock auto thing I can get most things from amazon unfortunately i have no way to get to my bank to deposit the money with my car down live in the country I have a 3 1/2 hour walk 1 way 2 work like 4 hour walk opposite way to bank
It sucks oh and no it died while in motion havent started since

 

Oh well, nothing for it but to wait for the postman then I guess.

Larry

 

Michael,

Sorry to join your thread late. A few possibilities come to mind:

Sorry I have to ask this, but are you absolutely certain there is fuel in the tank? The fuel level senders are known to fail... How recently had you purchased fuel before these symptoms presented? Is it possible you got some fuel contaminated with water?

Have you checked the Vehicle Condition Monitor for any stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes? To do so, turn the key to position II (ON) but do not crank the engine. Press and release the VCM button on the trip computer to the right of the steering wheel. Watch the small window below the speedometer where the odometer mileage display normally appears. DTCs are presented in the format of "Fuel Fault" or "FF" plus a two-digit number, such as FF12. If you have one code, you may have more. To check for additional codes, pull fuse #9 in the center console fuse box (second fuse from left). Watch for the tachometer and speedometer needles to drop below 0, count to ten and reinsert the fuse, then check the VCM again. Repeat until no new codes appear. Write all codes down exactly as they appear and post them here and we'll try to help.

Is it possible the Camaro coil is failing? Do you still have the original coil to swap back in to test?

Is it possible you have a dead cell in your battery? Can you measure the voltage sag while cranking? If the voltage sags below something like 10.5 volts while cranking, the ECM will not trigger the ignition.

With wet plugs I tend to agree that the problem is likely the ignition and not the fuel pump, but it's worth checking the fuel pump anyway. When you turn the key to position II (ON) but do not crank the engine, can you hear the pump run a priming burst for a few seconds? You can also use two wrenches to crack open the fuel line connection at the firewall end of the fuel rail to check for pressure - if fuel doesn't spray out when you loosen the nuts, try cranking the engine briefly to confirm that you get pressure. On the '93-'94 cars the fuel pump power supply passes through the oxygen sensor relay as well as the fuel pump relay, so you might try swapping one of the less important relays for the O2S relay. Also, if the new fuel pump relay you installed did not have an internal resistor and diode, it is possible the contacts have burned, so it would be worth swapping in a known good relay just to test.

Have you checked the wiring at your mass air flow sensor? It's not common for the connector to corrode or become contaminated, but it could manage to vibrate loose or a wire could break. You're not using a oiled K&N air filter, are you?

Do you hear any timing chain rattle at startup that could suggest the chain may have skipped a tooth or two? This would be very uncommon on an AJ6, but perhaps not impossible if a chain tensioner or guide were to fail.

Also, I'm sure the NGK plugs are not your problem, but for future reference the AJ6 and AJ16 engines are known to run best on OE Champions (RC9YC/RC12YC respectively) and to sometimes have problems with otherwise superb plugs by NGK, Bosch, etc.

Cheers,

Don

 

Any troubleshooting at this point should start with spraying some easy start into the intake, spray in, crank...

1. Coughs - fuel issue
2. Doesn't - ignition issue

...and then go from there. Simple as that