pondering purchase?
#1
pondering purchase?
Hello mates-
Just had a quick question for you guys. I am looking at a XJ40 platform vehicle, I have recently come out of an X300 ('96), pretty trouble free car, I had a/c problems, but other than that nothing major. I was just looking for some advice on items I should check for, if there are any certain little tricks to those vehicles. I would greatly appreciate any help on this, I do really like the XJ40 styling, and wanted to get a little more grass-roots per-say, but still maintain some daily driveablility. Thanks in advance
Cheers
-James
Just had a quick question for you guys. I am looking at a XJ40 platform vehicle, I have recently come out of an X300 ('96), pretty trouble free car, I had a/c problems, but other than that nothing major. I was just looking for some advice on items I should check for, if there are any certain little tricks to those vehicles. I would greatly appreciate any help on this, I do really like the XJ40 styling, and wanted to get a little more grass-roots per-say, but still maintain some daily driveablility. Thanks in advance
Cheers
-James
#2
#3
Thanks Cadillac
Yeah I had always heard the post Ford 93 and later models were a little more reliable vehicles, the one I have found is a 1989, seems to be in okay shape. Of course, I'm not looking for a perfect specimen or anything, I knwo there will be some work involved, especially in my price range currently. But thank you very much for the response and help...Is there anything inherent with these vehicles to watch out for that you know of, anything in particular? Cheers and thanks again my friend
James
James
#4
James,
I have an 88 VDP and it runs excellent. The things I have had to address were the shocks (front and rear), minor leaks with the power steering and the continual failure of the accumulator (which I will eventually remove and convert the system to a standard brake booster). Oh yes, the incidentals like brakes and drums.
Love the car and hope to one day repair some of the minor rust and have it professionally painted. Whether it's a classic or not, it is definitely a looker and something you don't normally see on the road. The SIII vehicles are even scarcer.
Good luck in your choice and hope you find a keeper.
I have an 88 VDP and it runs excellent. The things I have had to address were the shocks (front and rear), minor leaks with the power steering and the continual failure of the accumulator (which I will eventually remove and convert the system to a standard brake booster). Oh yes, the incidentals like brakes and drums.
Love the car and hope to one day repair some of the minor rust and have it professionally painted. Whether it's a classic or not, it is definitely a looker and something you don't normally see on the road. The SIII vehicles are even scarcer.
Good luck in your choice and hope you find a keeper.
#5
#6
#7
Hi James,
Adding to earlier comments:
1. The passive restraint belts have a tendency to jam up. Although they have a lifetime warranty supposedly, finding replacement parts are a bit problematic. If they jam in the rearward position, you can just unhook the shoulder belt.
2. The fan switch can go belly up. On the '90 I had it would only work on the high position.
3. The A/C control panel is a bit finicky. I had to replace a micro switch (around $200 US).
4. The A/C system is vacuum operated so the flaps may not work properly if you have a leak or the flaps are sticky. If the center A/C flap is a problem you can usually just pull of the front facia and the vent piece to access the flaps. I taped mine open for A/C, then messed around with the other flaps for heat.
5. If the rack and pinion leaks, the power steering fluid can be a bit pricey (around $15 or so US).
Good luck,
Mike
Adding to earlier comments:
1. The passive restraint belts have a tendency to jam up. Although they have a lifetime warranty supposedly, finding replacement parts are a bit problematic. If they jam in the rearward position, you can just unhook the shoulder belt.
2. The fan switch can go belly up. On the '90 I had it would only work on the high position.
3. The A/C control panel is a bit finicky. I had to replace a micro switch (around $200 US).
4. The A/C system is vacuum operated so the flaps may not work properly if you have a leak or the flaps are sticky. If the center A/C flap is a problem you can usually just pull of the front facia and the vent piece to access the flaps. I taped mine open for A/C, then messed around with the other flaps for heat.
5. If the rack and pinion leaks, the power steering fluid can be a bit pricey (around $15 or so US).
Good luck,
Mike
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#8
#9
Okay, let me help clear up a few things.
Most of the suspension and engine from your 96 model is the same on the XJ40 model. With the 88/89 models, you cannot ride yourself of mineral oil. The 90 and up models can convert of standard power steering fluid once you convert the shocks. Same as with the 96, look at the front bushings, ball joints, and wheels bearings front and rear. The racks like to leak and the diff can give you problems. Tail lights don't exist for these.
This car will not be a trouble free as your 96, but it's not a bad vehicle in the slightest. Good daily driver.
Some misconceptions:
Ford bought Jaguar in 1988.
"Attack" seat belts do NOT have a lifetime warranty. Yes, when the produced this was the law. Car manufacturers got the government to resend this. It became a 10 year, 100K warranty. No car exists that would fall into this group.
Most of the suspension and engine from your 96 model is the same on the XJ40 model. With the 88/89 models, you cannot ride yourself of mineral oil. The 90 and up models can convert of standard power steering fluid once you convert the shocks. Same as with the 96, look at the front bushings, ball joints, and wheels bearings front and rear. The racks like to leak and the diff can give you problems. Tail lights don't exist for these.
This car will not be a trouble free as your 96, but it's not a bad vehicle in the slightest. Good daily driver.
Some misconceptions:
Ford bought Jaguar in 1988.
"Attack" seat belts do NOT have a lifetime warranty. Yes, when the produced this was the law. Car manufacturers got the government to resend this. It became a 10 year, 100K warranty. No car exists that would fall into this group.
#10
I bought three XJ40s this year. The 1992 has been perfect.
The red 1993 has had a fuel smell which was fixed twice. Problems with power steering leak. Had to replace the rear shocks plus the mounting plate was broken. Then the fuel pump failed leaving me stranded and stuck with a $500 repair. Then the right rear tailght/turn signal fuse started to act up. I kept it going by putting dielectric grease on the fuse. After that failed I had the fuse box repaired. No sooner was that done than the check engine light came on. It needs an idle control valve for $250. I havenīt done that yet. Yesterday I couldnīt open the drivers door and it appears that the handle is bad. Those are about $250 for the part.
I bought a white one with 69K miles in June that appeared to be in perfect condition. I only drove it about ten minutes and I loved it.
I have a very difficult commute that requires an hour or more of idling. The first time out it started to get hot and the oil pressure light came on and pressure was almost at zero.
The oil pressure gauge was found to be correct and the mechanic found a bit of water in the oil. A thousand dollars later it has a new head gasket set, all new head bolts, and an upper timing chain tensioner.
I drove it in the commute and oil pressure was better. However it was still getting hot . Now Iīm waiting for a new radiator fan. Ended up ordering a used one for $150. Meanwhile I have owned the car for two and a half months and have been able to drive it twice.
They are wonderfully comfortable cars and smooth BUT you decide.
The red 1993 has had a fuel smell which was fixed twice. Problems with power steering leak. Had to replace the rear shocks plus the mounting plate was broken. Then the fuel pump failed leaving me stranded and stuck with a $500 repair. Then the right rear tailght/turn signal fuse started to act up. I kept it going by putting dielectric grease on the fuse. After that failed I had the fuse box repaired. No sooner was that done than the check engine light came on. It needs an idle control valve for $250. I havenīt done that yet. Yesterday I couldnīt open the drivers door and it appears that the handle is bad. Those are about $250 for the part.
I bought a white one with 69K miles in June that appeared to be in perfect condition. I only drove it about ten minutes and I loved it.
I have a very difficult commute that requires an hour or more of idling. The first time out it started to get hot and the oil pressure light came on and pressure was almost at zero.
The oil pressure gauge was found to be correct and the mechanic found a bit of water in the oil. A thousand dollars later it has a new head gasket set, all new head bolts, and an upper timing chain tensioner.
I drove it in the commute and oil pressure was better. However it was still getting hot . Now Iīm waiting for a new radiator fan. Ended up ordering a used one for $150. Meanwhile I have owned the car for two and a half months and have been able to drive it twice.
They are wonderfully comfortable cars and smooth BUT you decide.
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