Shock bushings how-to needed
#1
Shock bushings how-to needed
Im pretty sure my bushings are toast but I cannot for the life of me find a write up on how to change em. Nothing in my haynes manual and no good write ups online.
Anybody got a good link? Also recommendations on where to get good bushings are appreciated.
The rattling is driving me crazy!!!
Anybody got a good link? Also recommendations on where to get good bushings are appreciated.
The rattling is driving me crazy!!!
#2
Front? Rear? or all four?
I've read that sometimes rust in the front wheel wells can cause the top of the shocks to rattle about. It's worth checking.
The rear ones can sometimes wear though the top plate which causes a lot of rattling...if it's damaged then it can be welded or see if you can source a replacement in good condition
To replace the front ones, it's just matter of placing a jack under the front suspension cradle and then undoing the top bolt from the engine bay.... a bit of patience and removal of a few parts may be necessary to gain access. you'll need a spanner to hold the spindle from spinning while you undo the nut. then lower the jack and the top should come free enough through the wheel arch to replace the bush and spacers.
From memory with the rear, the whole assembly needs to come out. Again, a jack under the suspension cradle, undo the lower bolt to the control arm then undo the four bolts that hold the cradle to the chassis, lower the jack and remove...I can't remember if you need to disassemble the whole unit to replace the bushes as the shock runs through the centre of the spring and holds the spring retainers which hold the whole thing together. You need to compress the spring to remove the shock....be careful here as the spring is under huge pressure so either a really good set of spring compressors will be needed or take it to a workshop....refitting is a reverse of removal
If you still have self leveling suspension then best to refer to a Haynes manual for removal and consider a retrograde kit.
You can try Jagbits.com for replacement parts or ebay....depending on age it might be worth new shocks all round....I got mine (bilsteins) from discountcarparts.com
Hopefully other members can put some more input here for you
I've read that sometimes rust in the front wheel wells can cause the top of the shocks to rattle about. It's worth checking.
The rear ones can sometimes wear though the top plate which causes a lot of rattling...if it's damaged then it can be welded or see if you can source a replacement in good condition
To replace the front ones, it's just matter of placing a jack under the front suspension cradle and then undoing the top bolt from the engine bay.... a bit of patience and removal of a few parts may be necessary to gain access. you'll need a spanner to hold the spindle from spinning while you undo the nut. then lower the jack and the top should come free enough through the wheel arch to replace the bush and spacers.
From memory with the rear, the whole assembly needs to come out. Again, a jack under the suspension cradle, undo the lower bolt to the control arm then undo the four bolts that hold the cradle to the chassis, lower the jack and remove...I can't remember if you need to disassemble the whole unit to replace the bushes as the shock runs through the centre of the spring and holds the spring retainers which hold the whole thing together. You need to compress the spring to remove the shock....be careful here as the spring is under huge pressure so either a really good set of spring compressors will be needed or take it to a workshop....refitting is a reverse of removal
If you still have self leveling suspension then best to refer to a Haynes manual for removal and consider a retrograde kit.
You can try Jagbits.com for replacement parts or ebay....depending on age it might be worth new shocks all round....I got mine (bilsteins) from discountcarparts.com
Hopefully other members can put some more input here for you
The following users liked this post:
lorusblue (08-29-2011)
#3
I forgot to mention....have you checked your transmission mount? the original bushes were jut made of foam and deteriorate easily...this will also cause rattling and thumping from under the floor.... again, grab two jacks....you'll need one under the engine sump to hold the engine/transmission up while the other one under the spring pan as you undo the nuts and remove it to check it's condition...replacment bushes here are made of rubber so last a lot longer...
#4
Doing the front only, duh! Sorry should have mentioned that
No self level on my car.
I found a complete 6 piece set for the front on ebay and went ahead and ordered
that.
Do you know the steps to replace the lower bushings as well? Seems like there should be nothing to it but I`d rather enlist the help from someone who`s done it before
I will check the transmission mount when I install the bushings.
Thanks for the quick reply mate!!! Much appreciated!
No self level on my car.
I found a complete 6 piece set for the front on ebay and went ahead and ordered
that.
Do you know the steps to replace the lower bushings as well? Seems like there should be nothing to it but I`d rather enlist the help from someone who`s done it before
I will check the transmission mount when I install the bushings.
Thanks for the quick reply mate!!! Much appreciated!
#5
I've got an '88 which doesn't have any lower bushings for the shock, it's just a single bolt which holds it to the cradle. Going by the Haynes the '94 should be the same....
I've just finished replacing the steering rack bushings on mine as they were giving me some grief and causing a bit of rattling...see Sloppy Steering post.
Alot of guys on here have gone about replacing the control arm bushings but mine are 219,000 kms and still going strong...new bushings here are poly so a lot better than original. I might get around to it one day....another area to look at are the vee mounts....these hold the whole suspension, engine, transmission and subframe to the chassis in the wheel arch and are a pain in the butt to replace...if you do think about this just make sure you get original parts and not aftermarket ones
I've just finished replacing the steering rack bushings on mine as they were giving me some grief and causing a bit of rattling...see Sloppy Steering post.
Alot of guys on here have gone about replacing the control arm bushings but mine are 219,000 kms and still going strong...new bushings here are poly so a lot better than original. I might get around to it one day....another area to look at are the vee mounts....these hold the whole suspension, engine, transmission and subframe to the chassis in the wheel arch and are a pain in the butt to replace...if you do think about this just make sure you get original parts and not aftermarket ones
#6
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#8
You might find this helpful...It a great exploded diagram on many xj40 Parts
Jaguar XJ40 / X300 Spare Parts Catalogue
So yes, you will need 4 upper shock bushings (two each side) part number MND2140 and possibly 2 lower shock bushings part number CAC75851
Jaguar XJ40 / X300 Spare Parts Catalogue
So yes, you will need 4 upper shock bushings (two each side) part number MND2140 and possibly 2 lower shock bushings part number CAC75851
#10
I just did this and it was fairly easy. Do not quote me exactly, but I did it without removing the shock.
Something like:
Remove the wheel. Jack the car adn support on jack stands.
Support the lower arm/spring with a floor jack, to hold the spring compressed.
Remove the shock nuts from the top of the shock under the bonnet. (You have to keep the shock/shaft from turning as you loosen the nuts.)
Slowly Lower the floor jack to decompress the spring and lower the shock enough to access the top of the shock stem from below the fender, possibly compressing the shock stem enough for enough clearance to get the bottom bushing on.
Reverse the procedure raising the floor jack to position the shock stem back through the hole, and installing the top bushing.
I remember running across the procedure while searching for front end clunk. It said remove the shock, but I didn't have to.
Since working with the suspension and spring is a safety concern, all disclaimers, and precautions apply. Find two or three procedures to confirm or refute my off the cuff recollection.
Something like:
Remove the wheel. Jack the car adn support on jack stands.
Support the lower arm/spring with a floor jack, to hold the spring compressed.
Remove the shock nuts from the top of the shock under the bonnet. (You have to keep the shock/shaft from turning as you loosen the nuts.)
Slowly Lower the floor jack to decompress the spring and lower the shock enough to access the top of the shock stem from below the fender, possibly compressing the shock stem enough for enough clearance to get the bottom bushing on.
Reverse the procedure raising the floor jack to position the shock stem back through the hole, and installing the top bushing.
I remember running across the procedure while searching for front end clunk. It said remove the shock, but I didn't have to.
Since working with the suspension and spring is a safety concern, all disclaimers, and precautions apply. Find two or three procedures to confirm or refute my off the cuff recollection.
The following users liked this post:
lorusblue (08-29-2011)
#12
I finally received my bushings this afternoon but it was well worth the wait. $25 and 2 hours of work and she rides like new. No more rattling around.
It could have been done faster but the 105F degree weather didn't help
Didn't have to remove the shocks or really anything else for that matter. The radiator overflow tank had to be moved around a bit but I never disconnected it.
Now on to the next project....a two-tone paint job
Thanks again for everyones help!
It could have been done faster but the 105F degree weather didn't help
Didn't have to remove the shocks or really anything else for that matter. The radiator overflow tank had to be moved around a bit but I never disconnected it.
Now on to the next project....a two-tone paint job
Thanks again for everyones help!
#13
#15
#16
stripped?
sounds as if the threads have peen pulled/stripped caused bu excessive play.an air impact gun would work well,try lowering the jack and put a bit of a pull against the nut on top,and try to wrench it off then.you might end up replacing the nut and shimming things with a washer or two to get past the damaged threads uppon reassembly.worth a shot.good luck,Jim...
#17
You need large, good locking pliers (vice grip) to clamp that spindle, crescent won't do it.
#18
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