Hi All,

Hope all is well for everyone. I come here seeking recommendations. I need to purchase, as the title implies, a bearing removal kit. I need it for the Jag and my wife's front wheel drive vehicle. I've noticed some kits are marketed as being "front wheel drive" kits versus the common kit.

So my brethren, is there actually a difference between them? I would like to buy one kit to accommodate both vehicles. Is it possible?

If you have recommendations, please post up a link or reference the brand you purchased.

Thanks in advance.

 

I'm re-posting this with a different title, in hopes of some guidance.

Hi All,

Hope all is well for everyone. I come here seeking recommendations. I need to purchase, as the title implies, a bearing removal kit. I need it for the Jag and my wife's front wheel drive vehicle. I've noticed some kits are marketed as being "front wheel drive" kits versus the common kit.

Is there actually a difference between them? I would like to buy one kit to accommodate both vehicles. Is it possible?

If you have recommendations, please post up a link or reference the brand you purchased.

Thanks in advance.

 

Hi Rob!

We've been missing you around here!

You don't need a puller to replace the front bearings on the XJ40, unless your hub is stuck on, in which case a standard 2- or 3-jaw puller will work. Typically the hubs will just pull right out once the stub-axle nut is removed. The roller bearing cones usually pull right off and you tap the cups/races out with a punch. Installing the new races and seals is easier if you have a seal/bearing driver set. Harbor Freight has an inexpensive set that works great, and I've seen one by Neiko on eBay that is even less expensive.

Below are links to photos of the job. Jag-Lovers claims they are migrating the large photos to a new server, so you may only be able to see the thumbnails:

XJ40 Front Wheel Bearing Renewal - Part 1 of 4
XJ40 Front Wheel Bearing Renewal - Part 2 of 4
XJ40 Front Wheel Bearing Renewal - Part 3 of 4
XJ40 Front Wheel Bearing Renewal - Part 4 of 4

Regarding your wife's FWD, it really depends on the specific vehicle. Most FWD cars are set up very differently compared to the XJ40 due to the CV axle passing through. Some vehicles have bolt-on hubs that may be inexpensive and easy to replace. Some may require a hydraulic press to remove the old bearings and install the new ones. Some can be done with a big hammer and suitably-sized sockets to distribute the impact on the correct parts of the bearings. Some can be done with a ball-joint removal/installation kit. There are lots of vehicle-specific DIYs online, so look up your wife's car and compare the job to the XJ40 photos to see what you'll need.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don,

I'm am very disappointed in myself in not remembering your extensive tutorials of the bearing replacement on your '88! Good Lord! Nthing like reinventing the wheel again.

I noticed in the Part 3 of the series you were quite extensive in covering a methodical tightening of the locknut to ensure reduction/elimination of hub/stub play and referenced the use of a DTI, or the alternative of using the tyre and "feeling" your way through it. And then in Part 4, you go on to terrorize the reader with a horrid stories of over tightening and axles breaking into pieces!!!

So in hindsight, to you have any additional thoughts on the tightening process, or any other tidbits.

Thanks again Don!

 

My intention was to show the significant differences in the various methods recommended by Jaguar, Haynes, the Jag-Lovers eBook, and the bearing manufacturers. The Jaguar service manual shows the DTI method, but in my experience the stiffness of the new grease seals makes it difficult to accurately and repeatably measure the end float. The 300-character limit (including spaces) on Jag-Lovers made it difficult to explain all of that in the photo captions.

All that to say, I've been using the "feel" method for years with great results. I start by seating the bearings by gradually tightening the nut while rotating the hub as shown in Part 3. I do it in a few steps until the nut torques to 20 ft. lbs. without moving for 2 or 3 successive tries, as shown in photo 9 of Part 3. Now loosen the nut 1/4 turn, or a little more if necessary so it is loose enough to turn by hand.

I then use the "feel" method described in photos 1 and 2 of Part 4, adjusting the nut a little at a time until I feel that all detectable play is eliminated. If I have to use a wrench to turn the nut to that point, I turn it just 1/2 flat at a time (1/12th of a rotation, or 30 degrees). When I can detect no play in the wheel, I install the "bottle cap" castellated retainer so a new cotter pin will align with the hole in the stub axle.

I hope this makes sense.

Cheers,

Don

 

Much appreciated Don!

I've watched few too many youtube vids and when I read through your tutorial, I realized the Jag wasn't going to be idiot-proof like modern hub systems with circlips. Now I have a good feel for what you are describing and am comfortable with the approach.

Thanks again, your a champ!

 

Recently replaced all wheel bearings on my 05. Do yourself a big favor and buy the front hub and bearing assys. You will need a press or have the rears pressed.

 

Hi Terrific,

Thanks for chiming in on this old thread, but please note that this is the forum for the XJ40, the factory project code for XJ6s manufactured from 1987 to 1994. The bearings on these cars are very different from the ones on your 2005 X350. No bolt-on hub assemblies are available, so the bearings must be replaced as described earlier in this thread.

Cheers,

Don

 

Rob I would remind you that if you are a Patron of the Coventry Foundation or a member of JCNA you may loan the proper tools (factory). See WWW.JCNA.com and go to the "Tool Loan" section. Best of luck with your rears!

 

Hi Coventry Foundation,

Note that Rob did his wheel bearings more than a year ago, but thank you for your kind reminder of the JCNA tool loan program.

Cheers,

Don