Wipers
Robert,
Before removing anything you will need to confirm that the SLS is indeed removed. Tell tale sign to look for is to check that there are now only too hard fluid lines running from the master cylinder to the IRS in the rear. Slide underneath and look for the hard line harnesses attached to the chassis. They look very similar to spark plug wire harnesses. There should only be 1 hard line in each harness. The other slots should be blank (where the SLS hard lines would have been held.
If you can confirm that yes indeed the SLS has been removed correctly then the hard lines that operated it should also have been removed from the valve block in the engine bay as well.
Now, even if the SLS has been removed, your braking system still needs all the remaining parts (valve block, accumulator, lines, etc,.) to provide power assist to your master cylinder. These cannot be removed until if and when you undertake a conversion to a Vacuum assisted system.
Within the kit for this conversion (if choose to do this and buy the kit) is a blanking plate designed for plugging the hole that is left by removing the engine driven pump housing from the engine. It also contains everything else you need which includes an adapter plate to mount the Vacuum booster to the master cylinder and brake pedal box along with the associated nuts, bolts and vacuum line.
It is totally possible to convert the system without buying the kit by sourcing all the required parts yourself however you would need to engineer and manufacture the blanking plate and adapter plate yourself. There are instructions for doing this. I personally would just buy the kit and save myself the hassle of rounding up all the separate parts required.
At the same time as doing the conversion is when you would remove the remaining components of the (now defunct) hydro brake system and any remnants of the SLS if there were any to begin with.
If you are still unsure if you still have any components of the SLS, take a few photos of things like the rear wheel well and valve block in the engine bay to post on here so we can have a look for you.
Before removing anything you will need to confirm that the SLS is indeed removed. Tell tale sign to look for is to check that there are now only too hard fluid lines running from the master cylinder to the IRS in the rear. Slide underneath and look for the hard line harnesses attached to the chassis. They look very similar to spark plug wire harnesses. There should only be 1 hard line in each harness. The other slots should be blank (where the SLS hard lines would have been held.
If you can confirm that yes indeed the SLS has been removed correctly then the hard lines that operated it should also have been removed from the valve block in the engine bay as well.
Now, even if the SLS has been removed, your braking system still needs all the remaining parts (valve block, accumulator, lines, etc,.) to provide power assist to your master cylinder. These cannot be removed until if and when you undertake a conversion to a Vacuum assisted system.
Within the kit for this conversion (if choose to do this and buy the kit) is a blanking plate designed for plugging the hole that is left by removing the engine driven pump housing from the engine. It also contains everything else you need which includes an adapter plate to mount the Vacuum booster to the master cylinder and brake pedal box along with the associated nuts, bolts and vacuum line.
It is totally possible to convert the system without buying the kit by sourcing all the required parts yourself however you would need to engineer and manufacture the blanking plate and adapter plate yourself. There are instructions for doing this. I personally would just buy the kit and save myself the hassle of rounding up all the separate parts required.
At the same time as doing the conversion is when you would remove the remaining components of the (now defunct) hydro brake system and any remnants of the SLS if there were any to begin with.
If you are still unsure if you still have any components of the SLS, take a few photos of things like the rear wheel well and valve block in the engine bay to post on here so we can have a look for you.
Last edited by Jagfix38; Feb 26, 2014 at 03:41 PM.
There is also the possibility that, yes your system is working just fine at the moment. In which case I would probably just leave well alone. As I mentioned previously, the warning messages on the dash could just be due to low brake pads and/or cracked solder joints in the relay.
I'd be checking these first, if all ok, next check for any system leaks (you're looking for green coloured mineral fluid) anywhere in the engine bay or dripping from it. The fluid tank itself has a sight glass on top to indicate the fluid level....
all green, all ok
half red/half green... needs topping up
all red... chances are your system might be dead... or will be if you don't get some fluid into it.
I'd be checking these first, if all ok, next check for any system leaks (you're looking for green coloured mineral fluid) anywhere in the engine bay or dripping from it. The fluid tank itself has a sight glass on top to indicate the fluid level....
all green, all ok
half red/half green... needs topping up
all red... chances are your system might be dead... or will be if you don't get some fluid into it.
I still haven't had the chance to jack her up and look under yet... So I will confirm later as to presence or lack of SLS.
After preliminary checks (just under the bonnet) it does appear to only have three brake lines running along the subframe and down the firewall and under the car... there is also a couple of mounting brackets that cater to five lines but only three are occupied.
Looking at the valve block, again this looks to have the rear line missing also. I found the reservoir indicator you mentioned and after giving it a wipe so I could see it... it is indeed red....
I thought long and hard about the whole brake booster thing and decided I would much rather go with the vacuum booster, so much less hassle and more reliable and easier to work on. And from what I have been reading and also in the Jag updates of the time... it was recommended by Jag to remove the SLS and thus I would assume it would also be recommended to do away with the entire system of the engine assisted booster at the same time.
Originality is still a matter of perspective..... originally they were fitted with SLS, then Jag did a recall and offered exchange shock system upgrade by authorized Jag dealers..... So I guess it is still by definition original
That's what I will keep telling myself anyway hehehe
thanks again for the advice
PS how do I upload pics to the post?
After preliminary checks (just under the bonnet) it does appear to only have three brake lines running along the subframe and down the firewall and under the car... there is also a couple of mounting brackets that cater to five lines but only three are occupied.
Looking at the valve block, again this looks to have the rear line missing also. I found the reservoir indicator you mentioned and after giving it a wipe so I could see it... it is indeed red....
I thought long and hard about the whole brake booster thing and decided I would much rather go with the vacuum booster, so much less hassle and more reliable and easier to work on. And from what I have been reading and also in the Jag updates of the time... it was recommended by Jag to remove the SLS and thus I would assume it would also be recommended to do away with the entire system of the engine assisted booster at the same time.
Originality is still a matter of perspective..... originally they were fitted with SLS, then Jag did a recall and offered exchange shock system upgrade by authorized Jag dealers..... So I guess it is still by definition original

That's what I will keep telling myself anyway hehehe
thanks again for the advice
PS how do I upload pics to the post?
Last edited by red_101au; Feb 26, 2014 at 08:25 PM. Reason: info on pics
To attach pics, there is a little paper clip icon in the posting window (the window that opens when you reply to a post)... see it up there just right of the little smiley face? click on this, it opens a new window where you can browse your files and upload your pics... easier said than done!
Yep, my suspicions are correct. The red indicator tells me that you don't have much, if any, green fluid HSMO in the system. Chances are all your seals will be kaput because of this and chances are if you do add any fluid then it will just leak out of wherever the leak may be. Also explains your dash warnings and the hard brakes that you describe...
Time to rip it all out and replace it with a more reliable Vacuum system. Let me know when you get started on the project and I can try and help you with any hurdles that you may come across... I.e. finding somewhere on the manifold to take your vacuum from. Some engines have a little hidden plug that is blanked off just for this very purpose.... some don't and you will need to drill one...
I wouldn't worry about not keeping it "stock", think of it as a necessary safety upgrade. After all, the Hydro System was subject to a separate recall to replace the faulty pressure switches after the TSB was issued to remove the SLS.
Hope it all goes well....oh and you may have worked out by now that most of the fittings are metric, so a metric spanner and socket set is a must... especially 19mm, 22mm, 27mm, 30mm and a few others.... however some are also imperial... I don't know what I would do without my 1/2" spanner and 1/2" socket!!!
Yep, my suspicions are correct. The red indicator tells me that you don't have much, if any, green fluid HSMO in the system. Chances are all your seals will be kaput because of this and chances are if you do add any fluid then it will just leak out of wherever the leak may be. Also explains your dash warnings and the hard brakes that you describe...
Time to rip it all out and replace it with a more reliable Vacuum system. Let me know when you get started on the project and I can try and help you with any hurdles that you may come across... I.e. finding somewhere on the manifold to take your vacuum from. Some engines have a little hidden plug that is blanked off just for this very purpose.... some don't and you will need to drill one...
I wouldn't worry about not keeping it "stock", think of it as a necessary safety upgrade. After all, the Hydro System was subject to a separate recall to replace the faulty pressure switches after the TSB was issued to remove the SLS.
Hope it all goes well....oh and you may have worked out by now that most of the fittings are metric, so a metric spanner and socket set is a must... especially 19mm, 22mm, 27mm, 30mm and a few others.... however some are also imperial... I don't know what I would do without my 1/2" spanner and 1/2" socket!!!
Oh... and I forgot to ask. I'm assuming you have the auto transmission? The vacuum booster conversion is not possible without major engineering surgery in a Manual due to the location of the clutch cylinder.
Thanks yet again for all your valued advice,
I have uploaded the pics of the master cylinder and the valve block
I didn't realize you can only upload pics from reply to thread, not quick reply.
I am really stating to enjoy tinkering with my new toy and learning all her hidden secrets
Yes I do have the auto trans, yet another lucky break from what you say.
I looked again at the link on ebay and see it does in fact come with all the necessary adapter plate and the blanking plate for where the pump is removed.
I have uploaded the pics of the master cylinder and the valve block
I didn't realize you can only upload pics from reply to thread, not quick reply.
I am really stating to enjoy tinkering with my new toy and learning all her hidden secrets

Yes I do have the auto trans, yet another lucky break from what you say.
I looked again at the link on ebay and see it does in fact come with all the necessary adapter plate and the blanking plate for where the pump is removed.
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