Hi, I have tried all the reboot methods that I could find, boot open, driver's door open, key on and off five times, disconnected car battery etc. But still no change. Just an audible click from all doors around the car when I lock with the key. Oh and yes also when I open a door I have a double two tone beep (beep/bop, beep/bop). If anyone can point me in the right direction I really would appreciate it. I can't go to a dealer or Jag specialist because here in rural Brittany there simply are none, and having to open the windows from the driver's door in order for passengers to let themselves in isn't brilliant.

Hello All, I have a problem with my 92 XJ40 central locking. When I try to unlock with the key in the driver's door I get an audible click from each door in turn (dum, dum, ti, dum) around the car. But none of the doors unlocks except driver's. Also when I have manually physically unlocked each door and then try locking with the key in driver's door nothing happens except for click from glovebox area and loud click from fuel flap which locks. All windows will close from the key in the driver's door. The dash switch (ignition on) will also fire a click from each door in turn but no locking action from any of them.
Any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated.

 

New battery in transmitter, disconnect car battery, reconnect car battery, press transmitter 5 times. That's all I know of.

The other fault sounds like a bad passenger's front door lock motor, and/ or incorrect adjustment of the small link that the lock motor actuates: it's shaped like a question mark.....? The guess is that the passenger's lock motor is sending a lock signal to the system all the time, even when it is receiving an unlock signal from the driver's door. The test would be to disconnect this lock motor, and see if all of the others now work correctly when the driver's door is locked and unlocked.

 

on my way outside right now, will post findings. Thanks

 

OK here goes: Firstly thank you JTO, much appreciated, I agree, something seems to be instructing the doors to remain liocked.
I stripped the passenger door and disconnected the lock motor. Then retested form the drivers door with key in lock. same result clicks from the 3 connected doors, a louder click from behind glove box, and a loud click from the direction of the fuel filler. I then tried a reboot battery disconnect etc, with passenger door disconnected, same result. New batteries in fobs BTW, car beeps twice when I open drivers door with key in lock, fobs do nothing. I then stripped all the other doors inturn, disconnected them and repeated the above for each door same result as before. I then reconnected the passenger door and left the drivers door disconnected and repeated the whole procedure as before. Same result. I reconnected all doors and followed the sync procedure and yup, same result.
The key in the drivers door fires a click from all doors and from glove box and fuel filler area, it also closes all the windows. The dash switch with ignition on fires clicks all round the car and quite a loud click from under the drivers 4 way window switches and closes all the windows. Before reconnecting I checked that nothing was visibly sticking in all the doors and gave everything a good soaking with WD40. I'm totally stumped.

 

Bonjour,

Let's go backwards for a moment. In the U.S., 1992 XJ6 versions were not fitted with a security system from the factory. Jaguar supplied a security system that was a dealer-installed option: I was only at the dealer until 1990, and installed one or two systems on 1989 cars, and I don't recall ever seeing one since on a 1990-1992 XJ6. The 1992 Jaguar XJ6 Sovereign that I drive every day has no such equipment installed: there is a blanking cover inside the center console where the on/off switch for the optional factory system would be installed. Do you have such a rocker switch inside your center console?

The central locking system was standard on all cars, and did not have a keyless entry remote.

The remote controls for the optional factory system had one button, with a Jaguar "growler" face on it. I probably have a wiring diagram, but I am trying to find out if your car is fitted with the factory system. If it is not, there is no telling how to program it or what problem it may be causing to the central locking system.

It is reasonable to assume that both of your problems might be related, and the results you posted from your testing lead me towards that conclusion.

While you have all of the interior door panels off, try connecting the passenger's side lock motor and disconnecting the driver's side, and see what results when you lock and unlock the passenger's door. Both of the front door lock motors work the same: both will send a lock signal, and both will receive a signal from the opposite motor. You have ruled out the passenger's front motor as the source of the faulty lock signal, so let's find out if the driver's side is causing the problem.

The door lock control module is located under the glovebox, under the dash, on the far right (passenger's) side of a U.S. left hand drive car. It is a black rectangular module, and it is labeled as a door module on the unit. That is the only thing that makes a clicking noise in the car when locking and unlocking, other than the door, trunk, and fuel filler flap locks.

I have only seen one door lock control module fail: it was on a car that had been outfitted with an aftermarket alarm system, wired into the central locking system. Wiring for the system had been spliced into the harness where it plugged into the door lock module. Disconnecting this wiring and replacing the door lock module straightened out the problem. That system had not been locking by itself, the module was burned up and the system was disabled entirely as a result.

There is no sequence for resetting the door locks when one has failed and disabled the system: you roll all the windows down for access, walk around the ouside of the car and push all the door lock pins down. The system will then unlock when either front door lock pin is pulled up. Sometimes you have to repeat the process, pull each pin up and press them down again, before they are all synchronized. But the problem you are having with the system re-locking itself is being caused by a signal which shouldn't be there. It's not coming from the trunk, fuel filler or either rear door, unless some extra equipment has been installed in the car. You have proven it is not coming from the passenger's front door. That's what we are still looking for.

That's about all I can tell you for now, and anyone else with information to add is invited to join in. All similar problems with the central locking I have seen which locked by themselves was caused by a faulty or misadjusted left or right front door lock motor. The central locking switch on the dash switch panel never fails, and I don't think I have ever tested one: without looking at a wiring diagram, I am not able to tell you how to test it. I suspect that if it was disconnected, the front door lock motor signals would no longer be getting to the door lock control module, and the system would be disabled entirely.

Bon chance, et respondez vous a votre opportunite.

 

Salut JTO. To take your points in order: The car is RHD UK XJ40 end of 92 Sovereign. The alarms and central locking used to work OK until a longish battery disconnect, since then the problems as previously outlined.
Inside the center console the switch emplacement is blanked off, BUT, the rocker switch is on the underside of the steering column with an LED (red) to the side. When toggled to on this blinks (no key in ignition) continuous red with ignition on. The separate key fobs are the single button Jaguar rectanularish black type. All equipment on the car is stock, even the rad/cassette with the blinking red security light. I'm fairly sure this is the Jag system BUT in the engine bay the alarm klaxon is located front right corner near the washer bottlie, with the power steering reservoir further back to the bulkhead and the brake reservoir behind that (just for info).

With all the doors in bits, I did the reverse test, with driver's door disconnected and the passenger door connected and acheived the same results. I also tested with each rear door connected/disconnected and both disconnected against both front doors. Same result; Clicks all round but no movement either way from any of the plungers ie if a door is unlocked it clicks and remains unlocked and if locked it clicks and remains locked.

I had thought about the micro switches on the front door handles, but as both doors "FIRE" a locking signal when turning the key, is this a likely cause.

To take the two problems separately, for me it is central locking on the key turn, and then perhaps the jag alarm, but is it possible to separate the two.

I will disconect the battery over night.

D'avance merci beacoup pour votre aide.

 

I'm stumped so far, but I can tell you this: the locking signal is fired by switching inside the front door lock motors, not by the microswitches on the handles. Those provide the ground signal to close windows and sunroof, and still should be operating correctly independant of the door locking and alarm problems. Try jumping the wires, or manually depressing one of the switches, and I believe you'll find that this is the case.

Again, I do not have much experience with the optional factory security system on your car. The security control module likely has an internal battery which may have discharged while the vehicle electrical system was disabled. Perhaps disconnecting the module...I believe it was located under dash, adjacent to the steering column on a left hand drive U.S. spec car...will change the operation of the door locks? Might be worth a try to see if there is a relationship evident between the two systems in this way.

I'll look through some old books for more information, no promises of any additional information. Illigitimi non carborundum.

Durien pour mon assistance pathetique ????? Sorry, I'm faking the French and guessing at the rest. I think the Latin is correct, though.

 

Hey, ce n'est pas grave. Your help has been and will be greatly appreciated. So far we have gone a long way to proving that I am not completely incompetant.

I'll get under the dash and try to find the security module and look anywhere else on the car for that matter if it is not there (who knows)?

I will also try to get down to my "spare" car and pull the motors and lock module and sensor module (I have a fob) and see if swapping any of these in sequence has any effect.

Both micro switches do work (windows close) on holding the key.

Failing all else I will just have to grow longer arms for the benefit of passengers, although looking at the state of my hair this may take a while;-(

Cheers, R

 

Sorry for the delay, an inconsiderate client thought that their translation was more urgent than me trying to sort out my locking problems, grrrr.

Update, I have pulled all the in door actuators from my spares car (what a fiddly job that turned out to be) after releasing all the torx screws the whole units become loose, but there is part of the top white plastic trapped behind the window channel. there is enough space inside the door to raise the unit as a whole and gain access to the two screws holding the actuator to its frame. BUT these screws must have been factory fitted with locktight and an air gun, not good, one hand holding unit inside door space and other with screw driver taking skin of the back of hand. For speed I decided to remove all the window channels and glass, this released the trapped part and by raising the whole unit was easily able to slide it bottom first out of the hole in the door.

Now for the fun part: From all the previous tests it would seem that perhaps the actuators in the doors are not the cause, but that the control module might be at fault. So off came the under glove box pannel and out came the module. When pulled apart this reveals a PCB with two solenoids etc at the entrance to the box on the PCB there is a black cylindrical component I'm not great with electronics so am not sure what this is, However the base of this component appears to be burnt, not a good sign.

So I reconnected the open module and activated the doors. The locking solenoid opens/shuts with clicks all round the car. The unklock solenoid does nothing.

Back to spare car for its module.

The two modules are typically not the same (BL 4 door Jag registered months apart).

My thought is to splice in the "new" module just the locking aspects not the mirror or starter because they are separate on my car. But of course the wires in the two looms are different colours.

Original module part no DBC 1554 D2
New module part no DBC 10008 4 RK 006 788 06

I have 9 wires to the original and 14 on the new.

Any help with which wire goes to which would be much appreciated. I will naturally only do a temporary push fit for testing, before making any permanent splice.

Oh and naturally the colours in the Haynes manual for both types are not the colours found on either car, Weh Hey

Thanks once more

 

Bonjour,

Je pense que le module DBC 10008 est l'equipe pour 1993-1994 anee (dans L'Estates Unis), n'est pas?

The burned DBC 1554 helps support my suspicion that it was a possible cause, and I don't think I'd bother trying to wire up the later style combined relay...at least I think that's what you are attempting, if my memory of the applications and comprehension of your description are accurate.

I'd be happy to mail you a good DBC 1554 for testing, and we'll work out the details later once you determine if the replacement is required. Thay are expensive to purchase new, but I wouldn't ask alot for a used one (in the event you need to keep it) since they rarely fail and I have several. You can send me a private message if you consider that a worthwhile avenue to pursue.

The lock motors can be removed with the door latch assembly still in place, but that is also not easy. I use a small pair of visegrips to break the two mounting screws loose with, and a ratcheting 90 degree screwdriver to remove them. Once out of the car, I run each mounting screw in and out a few times with some lubrication to make reinstalling them a little easier: I've never seen those screws come loose, and this method won't cause that result.

You can also swap these lock motors side to side if necessary by changing the insulating pad to the appropriate face. That sometimes helps when fitting a used component, and that is the only reason that left and right are supplied under different part numbers when purchased new.

Hopefully you'll have this problem locked up soon!

Andy

 

Hopefully I can chime in without a whipping.....

In my experience, when you hear everything clicking and stalling, it's all working......meaning all locks are getting the signal to lock or unlock from the module, but one of em's stuck. When these cars were popular, I had found most of the time it was one of the door locks, or the trunk lock causing the mayhem. The most common door lock was the driver's door. The system will run, IIRC on as many as 2 locks working properly, but the others need to be disconnected....Disconnect one lock motor at a time, then reset the locks and operate. If they start working after the last disconnect, that last one disconnected is the *******. Don't forget the trunk and fuel could be the cause, too. I took all this from memory, but we did alot of these, and I think I got most of it right.........(hopefully).

 

Another thing, IIRC, of course, there is 2 wires to each lock solenoid except for the driver lock which I believe had 4. Easy volt check can be done. Take both leads and stab the back of the connector while still plugged into the lock, even the trunk is the same, and the fuel...... operate the lock......you should see either -12v one direction and 12v the other direction.....which indicates power is reaching that lock and the module is grounding the return wire to activate the lock.

 

That's a very very kind offer to someone that you have never met. TOP MAN. I'll pm you on this.

For insight and info I have hopefully attached a photo of the offending board; it shows quite clearly the burnt area under the component, but I'm not sure if it is a capacitor, resistor, or transistor. Although that's irrelevant at this juncture because I don't have the facility to rebuild the board.

In the mean time for something to do, I will attempt to quick connect the "spare" actuators just to see if there is any difference. Typically the connectors are not the same as those on the car.

Encore un grand grand merci, votre aide est magnifique

 

To Poboy, asked for advice, which is then freely offered should never warrant a whipping or a stoning. Surely that is at the root of a forum such as this. Many thanks for your added input.
PS. could probably arrange a little light dunking, the second Tuesday of the month (weather permitting).

Off topic, Poboyblues, from BJH song? One of my favourites I grew up in their neck of the woods.

 

Po, I'm an Allman Brothers fan..but you won't be hearing "Whippin' Post" from me either. Your comments were right on the ball, and Translator had come up with his own troubleshooting methods to get past the point of a possible failed front lock motor. None of the others can errantly cause the system to re-lock itself, which is what his problem is.

Translator, as you probably have already figured out, the later lock motors are the same with merely the connector plug as a difference. You can change them no problem if you wish, it likely won't tell you much though.

As for me, I'm a mid-level man. A Top man could tell you for sure that the failed component is a capacitor, and where to obtain one. My style is to troubleshoot to a likely conclusion, and hang on a substitute component. That approach sounds incomplete to some, but it is borne out of fixing these cars for a living: time is not an unlimited resource, and insuring a permanent repair is not an option.

If and when you have a working door lock control module, and since everything is still apart for testing, I'd be inclined to start out with Driver's door/ trunk/ fuel filler flap connected only. Then add rear doors, then passenger front. The module failure is an unusual one, and as many bad door lock motors as I have seen, one has never cooked a module. The first sign of a repeated fault would lead me to replace a lock motor for fear that it might cook the module again.

When the Kiekurt lock motors were introduced on Series III in 1986, there were occasions when one bad lock motor would burn out all of the others in the system. They did not have a control module on that system, and I never took them apart to understand why this occurred...I just fixed the car and moved onto the next.

Bon chance, le denoument pour votre travaille c'est ici. (Ugh, that must have been a butcher job for sure. I'm due for a whippin' from my eighth grade French teacher. If she's still hot, I won't mind it a bit though.)

 

Well with my 6th grade education, I sometimes have a hard time absorbing completely what I read. I misunderstood the original issue.......apologies. I had "locks inop." stuck in my large head.

BUT, you can print my posts out, and store for future reference! Yay.

 

That's probably what the guys just down the road who steal half of our work are doing right now. I bet you didn't get a free education, either.

 

No, education wasn't free. And you're right about the guys up the road stealing work. We've got a few X dealer techs at a couple of those shops. I'm sure some lurk around, but knowing their "active" and "at rest" states of mind, they don't have the wherewithall (however that is spelled, lol!!) to even click a link. I'm talkin' wounded units here. They worked for me, and certainly will end up where they ended up at the dealer......out on their ***. How they ever ended up with a wrench in their hands is beyond me.

 

"wounded units", lol

 

Salut guys. I've got the solution for you. Simple, set up shop over here, there are no indipendant specialists at all anywhere near. I would have to cross a border just to find just to find a "wounded unit".
Snag is there are no older cars either, you would just have one very happy customer ME!

Nothing new to report at the moment, except, with the car in bits I notice that I have got ANTS. Off to the Garden Center for "Secialist" Jaguar Ant Powder.

Oh Joy