so far unlucky to find a good xj40 I Came across on this one which apparently looks good.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/6009982844.html

it is a 1994 car with 87000 mi.

Here are the issues:

Needs: A few cosmetic items & you have to drive it regularly or the battery discharges and the tail pipe smokes.
Air shock: Seems to me to be working fine. So as far as I know, OK.
Oil leaking: No leaks on the driveway. So as far as I know, OK.
Head Gaskets: No oil in the coolant. So as far as I know, OK.
Rust: As far as I can tell it is pristine. So as far as I know, OK.
Known Issues: Roof Liner in gone, minor body dings, transmission light is on but it drives fine, rear doors rarely open.
Recent fixes: Tires look new, new battery, passed smog.

this battery thing is really strange.
What do you think ?

thanks

Rick

 

Battery will discharge if left unattended for long periods as there are some systems that stay energized when parked. The 94 handbook even advises disconnecting battery if car isn't driven for an extended period, maybe around a month with a good battery - obviously with an old worn out battery that time would be shorter.

So sort of normal behavior - the smoke on startup is somewhat "normal" also - search the forum for "valve guides" and you can read what causes the smoke. Smoking will be more of course the longer the car sits and this one sure looks like it sits around.

If the car isn't rusty and straight it's a good start and the rest of it sounds like most of the cars at this age, there's going to be stuff to attend to.

Never had the tranny light on myself (touch wood) but other members can advise you on that, but there again, you're going to be looking a long time if you're looking for some ideal/as new/fully-maintained/pristine 23+year old XJ40 - they do exist, but anyone with a car in top condition isn't going to sell it for a song.

All our cars needed some work when we bought them.

 

you are right that 25 years odl car can't be like new and I do not mind of the cosmetic issues and other common issues. But the transmission light makes me worry because replacing the transmission can be something like $5000.
So let's say I Am worried about the transmission. Maybe it just needs to be serviced... who knows

 

The transmissions in the 94's are practically bullet-proof, this is more than likely a relay/switch/TPS or some other maintenance issue. Lots of info in the archive none of which required a $5000 transmission replacement AFAIK!

 

On our '93 the most common cause of the transmission light and sometimes Limp Home Mode (locked in 3rd gear) has been oil contamination of the electrical connector for the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). The connector is mounted on a bracket on the intake manifold elbow to the left of the Throttle Body (TB). It would be worth checking that connector first.

Beyond that, there are numerous possible causes of the transmission warning lamp, but to my knowledge internal transmission failure is not one of them, because there are no internal sensors to trigger the warning lamp. The lamp indicates an electrical problem, such as oil contamination of the electrical connector or rotary switch on the transmission, a problem with the electrical circuits, or an internal problem with the Transmission Control Module (TCM) such as cold/cracked/starved solder joints.

One thing I would recommend is that you check the Vehicle Condition Monitor (VCM) for any stored fault codes. To do so, turn the key to Position II (Ignition ON) but do not start the engine. Depress and release the VCM button on the trip computer to the right of the steering wheel, and watch the small display window below the speedometer for any message that may appear. Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are displayed in the form of FF89 or Fuel Fault 69. If you find one code, there may be others, but only one code is displayed at a time. Write down the code you see, then leave the key ON and pull Fuse 9 in the center fuse box under the console arm rest. Watch for the speedometer and tachometer needles to drop a little below 0, then replace the fuse. Turn the key to OFF, then back to ON, and repeat the procedure to check for fault codes by depressing and releasing the VCM button, etc. Repeat this process until no codes appear.

Report any codes you find here and we'll try to help.

Cheers,

Don

 

thank you very much

 

Having owned many different models of Jaguars,my X300 has been the most reliable.The last few years the XJS (6 cylinder models) was made has also been known as being reliable. While the XJ40 is a fairly reliable car it does have a few more problems compared to an X300,which is probably due to age. The Series III cars still had a few electrical gremlins and were prone to rust,especially around the front windshield area and wheel arches. When the XJ40 was released they did away with alot of the rusting issues of the Series III cars but do have a few issues with rusting around the rear windscreen and the trunk lip underside and taillight areas. With the X300 models they virtually don't rust unless they are in harsh weather environments that use road salt or being kept close to ocean air. The X300 seems to be the best of them all as far as reliability. With the later X308 models,the transmission can sometimes be a weak link and they also suffer from faulty timing chain tensioners on the V8 cars. It's not a matter of if you need to change the tensioners,it's a matter of when. If you do go for a V8 car,make sure you get documentation that the tensioners have been replaced with the updates because it is a fairly costly job.

 

Not on the late cars, just the early ones.

 

Well I am into a xj40 or either xj series III, these are the ones I like.
I almost never found a series III without rust, I Always saw rust in the usual places you said (windshield). I foudn this xj40 recently for sale but the transmission light gets me scared a little bit. I Still wonder if I could just ignore it and drive...

 

Please don't do that. The problem is probably just electrical/electronic but needs to be resolved to avoid the possibility of mechanical damage (if that hasn't already occurred).

Cheers,

Don

 

So far i came across this one:

https://monterey.craigslist.org/cto/6025090236.html

200000mi is to be considered at the end of its life ?
or does it worth for $1000 to have this car ?

 

It does look fairly clean for $1000. My concern would be the overall mechanical condition,such as engine/transmission/brakes/suspension. Check the engine/trans for leaks,smooth running and smooth shifting. While 210K miles is a little high there is still some life left in the motor if it's been properly cared for and at that price it's alot of car for a little money. Little things can add up over time so sometimes it's better to spend a bit more money to get something with less mileage. Check the body carefully for rust issues especially since it has aftermarket chrome wheel arches. They can hide rust so inspect it everywhere. Lots of the little bits are still available new or used but with the mileage it has,it might be more prone to needing more repairs if it's been neglected. If you don't plan on putting alot of mileage on it then it's not a bad deal for $1000 provided it doesn't need lots of little things fixed. Also check the air conditioning as that could be a costly repair sometimes.

 

+1

They always scream hidden trouble to me.

Graham

 

well I know the X300 is completely different from what I Was looking for ( series III and XJ40) but this looks like a bargain.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/5991068385.html

what do you think ?

any major engine/transmission problems with the X300 I should pay attention to ?

what does not look right to me in the advertise is the year 1991. the X300 was built since 1994 or am I wrong ?

 

The X300 models are fantastic cars. Very reliable,smooth,and powerful even with a 4.0 6 cylinder. I use mine as a daily driver and it's been a joy to drive and I am always getting compliments on it even though it's 22 years old. See how it runs and drives. Underneath it's pretty similar to an XJ40. It was just updated over the years. It says the car was at an autobody shop at one time so I'd carefully check that there isn't some serious body damage that was repaired. Other than that just check to see if all the accessories work like power windows,seats,wipers,a/c,etc. All can be repaired without too much cost with the help of everyone here on this forum.

 

well I am quite intentioned with this car

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/6020996782.html

xj40

not used for 6 years and the mechanic put it back on street.
it looks great.

Please I ask a few hints what I should look to decide to stay away from it or not ?
I will search for the error codes if any.

I will try it on Wednesday.

Perhaps is a little bit expensive.

 

kelley bluebook says $2450 for a 1992 xj40 in Excellent conditions.
He is asking $5000 but the car is from 1989. I feel he is asking too much anyway...

 

You can't go by the Kelly Bluebook as it doesn't take into consideration the rising value and collectability of the XJ40, but you should be able to find one a little cheaper than $5000 - but again, if it is in everything-working-as-new-top-condition you could easily spend this much bringing a less than perfect car up to a "perfect" state.

The wheels are not original and look expensive BTW!!

 

I don't know how big your search area is, but here's a 1990 Majestic in Oxnard. Higher mileage but looks pretty clean. Only 2 owners per the ad.

The Majestic sold in the US in 89-90 consisted of mostly cosmetic differences as I understand it, including the wheels, carpet, magnolia leather w/mulberry piping. I believe the Majestic sold in 93-94 in overseas markets had a custom longer wheelbase along with cosmetic changes.

https://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/6018747111.html

 

I have to agree,the Kelly Blue Book value is only a basic guide. Most vehicle prices vary by rarity and also by location. A car can sell for one price( like $1200 in Kansas) and can sell for sometimes twice that price elsewhere ( $3000 in California). If your willing to widen your search area you may find a car at a better price for less money but also take into consideration travel time and expenses. At $5000,I would inspect the car over carefully,because at that price it should be near perfect. While the XJ40 models are becoming harder to find they are not highly collectable cars but are slowly increasing in price.