Most stick with the ordinary Champions for the old XK engines. You'll get lots of opinions, though :-)

Cheers
DD

 

How have you been?

I have new questions about the '82 xj6.

Recently fan clutch stopped working well. you know if another fan clutch type will fix in the jag? something like a ford or chevy fan clutch that is more common to find

I also have issues when the engine is under 60º of temperature, it turns off when try to accel. Like not enough ignition

Thanks a lot!

 

Whow, its a long time since you last posted ! Hope car has run well in that time.

Now the bad news..........
I think you maybe have to bite the bullet on this fan clutch, as they were in use from 1968 onwards and Jaguar sourced virtually all their parts in the UK then. It may be that the clutch was in use on other British cars, but certainly not in US cars.

Here is a UK supplier-
Classic Jaguar, Jaguar XJ Series 1, XJ Series 2, XJ Series 3 Viscous Fan Drive Unit four bolt mounting (NBC2215AA) | JustJagsUK.com Series 3&q=

Here's an eBay listing
JAGUAR DAIMLER VISCOUS FAN COUPLING SERIES 2 XJ6 XJ12 C45015 on eBay!

As regards your poor running on warm-up, your engine temperature sensor could be duff. This is a major influence on the fuel injection pulse. (one of two, the other being mass air flow).

Doug probably knows the answer !

 

1982-83 was a transition period for Jaguar on fan clutches.

If you have a metal fan blade then you'll have a "non-thermal" fan clutch with the central mounting bolt to the water pump. I don't know of any USA substitutes, off hand. There might be some out there but I can't say for sure

If you have a plastic fan blade you'll have the more common "thermal" fan clutch with the 4 mounting holes to the water pump. There are several USA substitutues....pretty common design/size. They might not be an exact replica of the Jaguar clutch but they'll work well.

Agreed that the coolant temp sensor is a likely culprit on you running problem. Only about $20 so, as guesses go, it's not too painful. If you have a multi-meter you can verify yours is bad, first, though.

Post back for more details if needed

Cheers
DD

 

Sorry, didn't realise there was a changeover. My car was a 1980 with the old type, (which failed on me !!). I suspect the clutch here is the old type and the fan is pressed steel, as it is a USA 1982, which means it will have been built in Coventry in 1981.

Please tell us what you have, Marshall.

 

Thanks a lot for the advises.

It is the yellow plastic fan blade so maybe I could fin some substitutes but, this year I moved to Mexico and I just brougth the jag last month and it started with this issues. I´ll better find a substitute locally.

Where is located the temperature sensor?

Regards

 

The temperature sensor is mounted on the coolant rail on top of the inlet manifold towards the front of the engine. If memory serves, the connector is either brown or green.

Did you follow the advice from other posts and have the radiator inspected/recored to eliminate that as a source of your overheating issues?

 

Just to emphasize NBCat's advice.

The radiator in your car is before the aluminium changeover, so is made from a copper core, plus brass pressings top and bottom. The core is soldered in, so can easily be replaced, keeping the original brass fittings, (assuming you can find a radiator shop to do this).

Of course with aluminium radiators, its a matter of swapping out the whole shebang.

 

Yes I did follow the advise about radiator inspection, it is in very good shape. I also replace water pump, hoses, expansion tank and other parts when head gaskets where replaced...

I´ll change the temperature sensor hoping to improve running when cold.

Thank you!!

 

Is there also an issue with performance when the motor is cold, or are you still having an overheating problem? There are a different set of circumstances if the issue is cold, or warm-up performance.

 

No overheating problems anymore. Already replaced the temperature sensor and the performance when cold is better with minor performance issues.

I am afraid something is damaged again because sometimes steam goes out by both exhaust pipes... it does it for seconds or few minutes when engine starts and normalizes for the rest of the time it is running

 

Getting some steam out just after starting is normal for these cars. It will disappear when the car gets to running temperature and the water vapour gets too hot to see exiting the exhaust. Water is a byproduct of burning the fuel, along with the gases carbon monoxide and dioxide, plus nitrogen oxides too.

 

but i have to refill 2 to 4 litres of coolant/water every 3 days of continuous use (20 miles per day).

 

Possible...even probable....head gasket leak.

Cheers
DD

 

Doug looks right-on, it's probably time to take the head off and look.

These long-stud 4.2 engined cars were not very good at keeping their head gaskets together, although it improved when the slotted blocks were introduced in the early 80s. Even so, most engines would be needing a cylinder head gasket by about 80,000 miles, or so I was told. Earlier engines were even worse, (like mine !!).

 

probably rigth... I replaced head gasket and studs 18 months ago but probably something goes bad now.

Thanks!

 

Is the oil keeping clean, no mayonnaise or anything ? No obvious leaks ?

It's difficult to think of anywhere else 2-3 litres of coolant can escape from the XK engine apart from the head gasket failing. There have been cases of the timing cover corroding where the coolant passes through a passage in it, but this also would pass coolant into the oil.

 

No oil leaks but is is has appearance like chocolate color (no mayonnaise in the cap), is it coolant mixed right?

There was a coolant leak in the radiator but it's fixed now. In three days minor qty of coolant wasted. What seems to fail now is cylinder #1, mechanic says that flow goes right until the spark and a valve can be failing inside of the head.