1986 XJ6 - New to me.
#1
1986 XJ6 - New to me.
Hello - I tend to search Craig's list locally for cars, car parts, cars, etc. I have been interested in something foreign, and different. I came across a 1986 XJ6 that looked to be in great condition. I showed my wife the listing. Since it was my birthday, and since she went to the prom in one... I am now the proud owner of a 86 Jag. I didnt think too much of the car from the exterior look, and I was wondering if I should have shown her a listing for something "Newer". But then I popped the hood, and fell in love with the look of that six! Very cool!
I know nothing about these vehicles. I do know that this one has 132K on it, has NOT been run for over 8 years, and has been confined to a carport for more than this. The body is in decent shape, the paint is good, the interior is very dry and filthy - but I think I can work with it. My first order of business is to see if I can start it.
My immediate reaction was to do some on line research, and I came across one article that suggests I pull the plugs, spray some liquid wrench in the cylinders, disconnect the ignition, and turn it over. Beyond that, I dont see too much focused on waking up this beast. I have some car experience, I am not a complete novice - but I am also not a certified car mechanic. So, as I have in the past - I am couting on others that know this vehicle inside and out for some advice.
At this point - my plan of attack is to drain the tanks and flush them out. Pull the injectors out and soak them - same with the throttle body. Complete the liquid wrench in the cylinder routine - reassemble - and see what happens?
What do you think?
Thanks for any and all advice you can send my way. I am looking forward to trying to get this baby fired up!
I know nothing about these vehicles. I do know that this one has 132K on it, has NOT been run for over 8 years, and has been confined to a carport for more than this. The body is in decent shape, the paint is good, the interior is very dry and filthy - but I think I can work with it. My first order of business is to see if I can start it.
My immediate reaction was to do some on line research, and I came across one article that suggests I pull the plugs, spray some liquid wrench in the cylinders, disconnect the ignition, and turn it over. Beyond that, I dont see too much focused on waking up this beast. I have some car experience, I am not a complete novice - but I am also not a certified car mechanic. So, as I have in the past - I am couting on others that know this vehicle inside and out for some advice.
At this point - my plan of attack is to drain the tanks and flush them out. Pull the injectors out and soak them - same with the throttle body. Complete the liquid wrench in the cylinder routine - reassemble - and see what happens?
What do you think?
Thanks for any and all advice you can send my way. I am looking forward to trying to get this baby fired up!
#2
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Your plan sounds good to me.
You should post in the "XJ6/12 Series I-II-III" section.
If you go to the top of that section you'll find a buyers guide that might be worth reading. Obviously you've already bought the car but it might give you some background on what else to be aware of.
Welcome aboard.
Cheers
DD
You should post in the "XJ6/12 Series I-II-III" section.
If you go to the top of that section you'll find a buyers guide that might be worth reading. Obviously you've already bought the car but it might give you some background on what else to be aware of.
Welcome aboard.
Cheers
DD
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Ahabiam (08-03-2012)
#3
#4
Fist off if you're a really serious new owner, is to buy the official workshop manual, an absolute gold mine of information, plus the parts manual if you can. Money well spent and I know this is true because I had a 1980 car for 14 years (88-02). As these are real books, they are not cheap, but very well worth the money
Parts catalogue
Workshop manual
Jaguar XJ6 Series 3 XJ12 Series 3 450 Page Workshop Manual AKM9006 | eBay
Parts catalogue
Workshop manual
Jaguar XJ6 Series 3 XJ12 Series 3 450 Page Workshop Manual AKM9006 | eBay
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Ahabiam (08-05-2012)
#5
after you get the Factory Shop Manual, (agreeing with Fraser), get the battery fully charged or get a new Interstate battery. These cars appreciate a lot of electrical juice. BUT WAIT: once you get a fresh battery and check all the fluids, just try to start the car, it might surprise you!
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Ahabiam (08-05-2012)
#7
Update
So, the Jag showed up Saturday and I got it into the garage. I did not come with a battery so I bought a new one and put it on the charger. I pulled the plugs - all 6 appeared normal to me. Regardless I doused the cylinders with Kroil and let it sit while I positioned the jack stands and raised the car. Also - I did find a reciept for basic dealer servicing for a year - a year only. I also found a receipt for installing a Jaguar radar detector system and fog lights. The final receipt worth mentioning was a waterpump change. I also see it arrived in the states via Newark NJ, and was shipped to Greensboro and sold to a local dealer. Since it appears to be a Southern car, that would explain the lack of rust.
I got it up in the air - safely. (I read the Jaguar Lovers guidance and this and many other topics...) I notice that PO allowed some damage to the lower body pan - I would assume it was placed on jacks in the wrong locations. Dented and scarred. I pulled the oil plug - and all that came out at first was 1/2 bucket full of clear water. Then it turned "chocolatly" and then at the end - to oil color. So, my heart sank a bit. I went ahead anyway and put in new oil and changed the filter. I left the plugs out. At this point I assumed the worst and went ahead and put the battery in. Piller lights, pool lights, all work. All 4 windows - are slow- but do work. I tried to crank it. I recieved a click with authority, but no crank.
I assumed the block was locked, and if there is an electrical problem with the start system - I would need to see if the engine would turn manually. I went underneath and noticed zero clearance between the fan shroud and harmonic balancer. I removed the trans cooler and drained the radiator. The trans line were rotted, and just tore. The radiator is full of brown muck - no trace coolant to be found. I still did not have enough room. I was worried about cracking the fan case. I removed the fan, and then removed the fan case to free up the front of the engine. I also loosened the belts.
I put a 1/2 ratcheting MAC long bar on the HD, with a jack cheater and pulled clockwise. All this did was tighten the HD bolt. No movement at all.
I put some more Kroil, engine oil, and WD-40 in the cylinders and let it sit all night. This AM - still locked up. I tried counter clockwise - and the HD bolt loosened.
SO:
1.) I have read some accounts on line of the engine eventually freeing up. i will pursue this. how hard do I go to try to break it loose? I am in bad shape now I know, but I dont want to make it worse by breaking the HD hardware.
2.) From all that you all know - is there anything I am missing here? I beleive since this car has been sitting since 2004 - and water came out of the oil pan - its hopelessly locked. Do I even bother going further? Should I just go ahead and pull the head (Try to..) and see how bad it is in there?
* I will try to post some picks today.
* I do have a Jag manual on order. (E-bay). What is the difference between the servicing manual and the shop manual?
What do you think I can reasonably assume I will need to do with the block, and how hard will this be to pull on my own?
Thanks for all the advice guys - I appreciate it!
I got it up in the air - safely. (I read the Jaguar Lovers guidance and this and many other topics...) I notice that PO allowed some damage to the lower body pan - I would assume it was placed on jacks in the wrong locations. Dented and scarred. I pulled the oil plug - and all that came out at first was 1/2 bucket full of clear water. Then it turned "chocolatly" and then at the end - to oil color. So, my heart sank a bit. I went ahead anyway and put in new oil and changed the filter. I left the plugs out. At this point I assumed the worst and went ahead and put the battery in. Piller lights, pool lights, all work. All 4 windows - are slow- but do work. I tried to crank it. I recieved a click with authority, but no crank.
I assumed the block was locked, and if there is an electrical problem with the start system - I would need to see if the engine would turn manually. I went underneath and noticed zero clearance between the fan shroud and harmonic balancer. I removed the trans cooler and drained the radiator. The trans line were rotted, and just tore. The radiator is full of brown muck - no trace coolant to be found. I still did not have enough room. I was worried about cracking the fan case. I removed the fan, and then removed the fan case to free up the front of the engine. I also loosened the belts.
I put a 1/2 ratcheting MAC long bar on the HD, with a jack cheater and pulled clockwise. All this did was tighten the HD bolt. No movement at all.
I put some more Kroil, engine oil, and WD-40 in the cylinders and let it sit all night. This AM - still locked up. I tried counter clockwise - and the HD bolt loosened.
SO:
1.) I have read some accounts on line of the engine eventually freeing up. i will pursue this. how hard do I go to try to break it loose? I am in bad shape now I know, but I dont want to make it worse by breaking the HD hardware.
2.) From all that you all know - is there anything I am missing here? I beleive since this car has been sitting since 2004 - and water came out of the oil pan - its hopelessly locked. Do I even bother going further? Should I just go ahead and pull the head (Try to..) and see how bad it is in there?
* I will try to post some picks today.
* I do have a Jag manual on order. (E-bay). What is the difference between the servicing manual and the shop manual?
What do you think I can reasonably assume I will need to do with the block, and how hard will this be to pull on my own?
Thanks for all the advice guys - I appreciate it!
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you tried to crank and no turning? that does not mean the engine is locked. Sounds like a starter issue maybe?, was the shifter in Park when you tried to crank it? The car looks great and I would believe a seized engine if the outside was in worse shape, but it isn't. you're going ahead of it. Did you try to turn the engine at the crank bolt with the shifter in Park? or in Neutral?
wait for the Shop Manual (Service Manual, same thing), and start with a radiator cleaning, then clean the coolant recovery tank and its hoses/lines, and the engine block;
one thing at a time, you're going too fast taking things apart! There is a drain spigot or "faucet" on the driver's side of the block, under the exhaust manifolds, hidden behind the oil dipstick; open it by turning it and let the block drain to see what comes out. Insert a garden hose at the top radiator hose, at full pressure, with the spigot open and closed to flush the gunk out of the coolant passages.
you'll have to remove the Thermostat Housing, careful, the studs usually break off, spray Rust Blaster overnight before trying to loosen the nuts.
wait for the Shop Manual (Service Manual, same thing), and start with a radiator cleaning, then clean the coolant recovery tank and its hoses/lines, and the engine block;
one thing at a time, you're going too fast taking things apart! There is a drain spigot or "faucet" on the driver's side of the block, under the exhaust manifolds, hidden behind the oil dipstick; open it by turning it and let the block drain to see what comes out. Insert a garden hose at the top radiator hose, at full pressure, with the spigot open and closed to flush the gunk out of the coolant passages.
you'll have to remove the Thermostat Housing, careful, the studs usually break off, spray Rust Blaster overnight before trying to loosen the nuts.
Last edited by Jose; 08-05-2012 at 04:39 PM.
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Ahabiam (08-05-2012)
#13
I will hit the thermostat housing tonight with kroil and let it soak. I can give the block flush a go tomm after work.
I tried to crank it in park only. I will try it again in neutral tonight. If this makes a difference I will let you know. Yes, I hooked up right on the crank bolt with my cheater and tried to move the crank, with no plugs, no belts, no coolant, both ways. Clockwise tightens the crank bolt. Counter clock loosens it. No rotational movement. I tried this in park and neutral. No difference.
I tried to crank it in park only. I will try it again in neutral tonight. If this makes a difference I will let you know. Yes, I hooked up right on the crank bolt with my cheater and tried to move the crank, with no plugs, no belts, no coolant, both ways. Clockwise tightens the crank bolt. Counter clock loosens it. No rotational movement. I tried this in park and neutral. No difference.
#14
I will hit the thermostat housing tonight with kroil and let it soak. I can give the block flush a go tomm after work.
I tried to crank it in park only. I will try it again in neutral tonight. If this makes a difference I will let you know. Yes, I hooked up right on the crank bolt with my cheater and tried to move the crank, with no plugs, no belts, no coolant, both ways. Clockwise tightens the crank bolt. Counter clock loosens it. No rotational movement. I tried this in park and neutral. No difference.
I tried to crank it in park only. I will try it again in neutral tonight. If this makes a difference I will let you know. Yes, I hooked up right on the crank bolt with my cheater and tried to move the crank, with no plugs, no belts, no coolant, both ways. Clockwise tightens the crank bolt. Counter clock loosens it. No rotational movement. I tried this in park and neutral. No difference.
as a last resort, you can try to get a good used engine from David at EverydayXJ ( Everyday XJ ). He's near you and he parts out XJ.
save the original engine because it probably matches the car's numbering system. Matching Numbers cars bring more on resale.
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Ahabiam (08-05-2012)
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Welcome to the forum and Jag ownership. I know you wish it were going smoother, but the advice you are getting from these guys is great. They really know their stuff. Looking at the interior it looks like you have a Vanden Plas, which is the highline model of the XJ6. Same mechanically, the interior is a bit different. The black looks nice on this car. Hang in there on trying to diagnose what's happening. Where in NC are you located? I am in Spartanburg, SC so not too far from some parts of NC.
Eric
Eric
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Ahabiam (08-06-2012)
#19
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I try to be as optimistic as the next guy, but......
The car hasn't run in 8 years, you drained a gallon or so of water out of the pan before getting to the yucky oil-water mix.....and the engine won't turn.
Sounds to me like the engine has been sitting for years with water inside. Even if you can free it off the bearings are almost certainly ruined and the cylinder walls and rings rusted. If by chance you can get it running it'll probably have low oil pressure and it will knock and burn oil like crazy.
Do what you want but I'd strt looking for a running, used engine.
Dollars to donuts this started off as a blown head gasket.
Good luck!
Cheers
DD
The car hasn't run in 8 years, you drained a gallon or so of water out of the pan before getting to the yucky oil-water mix.....and the engine won't turn.
Sounds to me like the engine has been sitting for years with water inside. Even if you can free it off the bearings are almost certainly ruined and the cylinder walls and rings rusted. If by chance you can get it running it'll probably have low oil pressure and it will knock and burn oil like crazy.
Do what you want but I'd strt looking for a running, used engine.
Dollars to donuts this started off as a blown head gasket.
Good luck!
Cheers
DD
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Ahabiam (08-06-2012)
#20
I am outside of Raleigh NC. And yes, (Doug) I was thinking the same thing. IF I can break it free, I doubt I can count on the bottom end holding together. I have a line on a used engine with only 60K on it. (Thanks to the help I recieved on the forums...) and I am looking forward to checking it out, and then swapping it out. I will keep the original block - and take my time reworking it. To get it back in the road - I will use the donor motor. Or at least - that is the plan. Still waiting on my manuals, and I have some thoughts on pulling the starter - just to be sure this is not jammed..? Otherwise, I am getting my head around needing to change it out.
Doing some research I saw a Jag with the entire front end removed. Meaning the radiator, radiator supports, etc. It looked like the whole front section just pulled off. is this accurate - or to get this level of access did they cut through? I am NOT cutting any metal, I am just wondering. I know I will know more when the books show up.
Doing some research I saw a Jag with the entire front end removed. Meaning the radiator, radiator supports, etc. It looked like the whole front section just pulled off. is this accurate - or to get this level of access did they cut through? I am NOT cutting any metal, I am just wondering. I know I will know more when the books show up.